Honda Car Forum

I need to replace the right outer CV joint on my 89 Accord DX. I have a
new part. The shop manual on the car states to not disassemble the
outer CV joint from the driveshaft and does not offer any other
details. I have replaced outer CV joints on other cars and they are
usually held in with a cir-clip. The one for this car looks like it is
just pressed in without a clip. Is there anything special that I have
to do? It must come apart because you can buy replacement joints. Any
help would be appreciated.


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nospam wrote:
> I need to replace the right outer CV joint on my 89 Accord DX. I have a
> new part. The shop manual on the car states to not disassemble the
> outer CV joint from the driveshaft and does not offer any other
> details. I have replaced outer CV joints on other cars and they are
> usually held in with a cir-clip. The one for this car looks like it is
> just pressed in without a clip. Is there anything special that I have
> to do? It must come apart because you can buy replacement joints. Any
> help would be appreciated.

I've always found it far more efficient to just replace the whole shaft. Takes
about 10 minutes, start to finish, and if the outer joint is going, the inner
joint is probably ready to be replaced as well.

nospam wrote:
>
> I need to replace the right outer CV joint on my 89 Accord DX. I have a
> new part. The shop manual on the car states to not disassemble the
> outer CV joint from the driveshaft and does not offer any other
> details. I have replaced outer CV joints on other cars and they are
> usually held in with a cir-clip. The one for this car looks like it is
> just pressed in without a clip. Is there anything special that I have
> to do? It must come apart because you can buy replacement joints. Any
> help would be appreciated.
>

The outer joint is held on by a clip. However, it's inside the joint and
cannot be accessed when the joint is on the shaft.

I have removed the joint using two techniques. The first one usually only
works if the joint is very worn and is just flopping about on the end of the
shaft. You must enlist a brave volunteer. This person will hold the shaft
near the inner joint such that the shaft is pointing straight down and the
outer joint is level and has had the boot and clips removed. You then take
two 32 oz ball peen hammers, one in each hand, and swing them like an ape
man such that they strike both sides of the outer joint at precisely the
same time. If the joint doesn't come off after two or three blows, then it
probably isn't going to come off via this technique. What happens is that
the groove that holds the clip ring starts getting flared out preventing the
outer joint from coming off and hitting it further will just make the joint
more and more less likely to come off and further damages the splines.

The second technique involves judicious use of an oxy-acetylene cutting
torch. The outer race is fairly straight forward to cut off although it is
a bit messy as the grease will catch on fire as it's dripping out of the
joint. The inner race is more difficult since it's right next to the
splined shaft. If the person wielding the cutting torch is highly skilled,
then they can usually cut off the inner race without causing appreciable
damage to the splines of the shaft directly underneath inner race.
Sometimes, even with the greatest of care, it's still necessary to smooth
out the splines with a flat file.

A third possible technique, which I have never used, could be to use a
special adapter for an air hammer which is designed to apply force equally
to all sides of the outer joint's inner race. However, with this method
you'll still likely run into the problems with the clip ring I mentioned in
the first technique.

In either of the above cases, the inner joint should be rebooted.
Disassemble the joint, remove as much grease as possible without using
solvent, keep it impeccably clean, regrease it and reassemble the unit being
careful to keep the inner tripod in it's original orientation. Some techs
have problems and get dirt in the joints while they're apart. This will
lead to their premature failure so cleanliness is critical. The other
important step is to equalize the air inside the boots of both joints such
that they can move throughout their normal range of motion without putting
tension on the boot. For example, if there isn't enough air in the inner
boot then it will likely pop out of the transmission while you're driving
down the road.

Given the limitations with the above techniques for removing the outer
joint, it's a whole lot easier to buy a remanufactured shaft with a warranty
and just replace the whole thing. Honda sells a high quality rebuilt shaft
and you can check the price and availability at
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com or http://www.slhonda.com.

Eric

"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote
> Given the limitations with the above techniques for
> removing the outer
> joint, it's a whole lot easier to buy a remanufactured
> shaft with a warranty
> and just replace the whole thing. Honda sells a high
> quality rebuilt shaft
> and you can check the price and availability at
> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com or
> http://www.slhonda.com.

I happened to check this a few weeks ago for a school
assignment. Majestic (site one above) wants about $130 +
shipping/handling for the remanned OEM shaft. Not sure what
the warranty is. One has to ship Majestic the core to get
the price above.

Napa and Autozone want about $70, which also already takes
into account submission of the core. Both provide a lifetime
warranty.

Make sure you get the exact same diameter, length and spline
count from Napa and Autozone.

A literature review on this subject indicates that most
shops now just replace the halfshaft. It's way cheaper both
parts wise and labor time wise.

Hopefully returning the part the OP purchased is still an
option.

"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote

<snip>
> The second technique involves judicious use of an oxy-acetylene cutting
> torch. The outer race is fairly straight forward to cut off although it is
> a bit messy as the grease will catch on fire as it's dripping out of the
> joint. The inner race is more difficult since it's right next to the
> splined shaft. If the person wielding the cutting torch is highly skilled,
> then they can usually cut off the inner race without causing appreciable
> damage to the splines of the shaft directly underneath inner race.
> Sometimes, even with the greatest of care, it's still necessary to smooth
> out the splines with a flat file.
<snip>

Personally, I would go for the Abrasive Cut-Off Saw. This gives better
control and minimize overheating, not to mention cost and safety.

"Burt" <burtsquareman@none.com> wrote in message
news:ewYEg.14271$o27.5153@newssvr21.news.prodigy.c om...
> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote
>
> <snip>
>> The second technique involves judicious use of an oxy-acetylene cutting
>> torch. The outer race is fairly straight forward to cut off although it
>> is
>> a bit messy as the grease will catch on fire as it's dripping out of the
>> joint. The inner race is more difficult since it's right next to the
>> splined shaft. If the person wielding the cutting torch is highly
>> skilled,
>> then they can usually cut off the inner race without causing appreciable
>> damage to the splines of the shaft directly underneath inner race.
>> Sometimes, even with the greatest of care, it's still necessary to smooth
>> out the splines with a flat file.
> <snip>
>
> Personally, I would go for the Abrasive Cut-Off Saw. This gives better
> control and minimize overheating, not to mention cost and safety.
>
>
Perhaps a cut-off saw with the application of a cold chisel when the cut
gets near the axle?

Mike