Honda Car Forum

Hi,

recently I have encountered the following problem
on my Honda Accord '94.

|Sometimes|, when I try to run the ignition
it cranks, seems to start for half a second (speedometer shows
something)
and then nothing (dies). Also all indicators seems to go off after
that.
If I turn the key to off, and try again sometimes the engine
starts, sometimes not. If I insist it always starts (so far at least!).

I checked the battery, seems fine (12.5V).
I recently also replaced sparks and rotor cap, so these
hopefully should be fine.

>From the posts it seems that 3 could be the main causes:

1. fuel injection main relay
2. starter
3. fuel pump

Any more concrete suggestions from what I described??

TIA
michael

<michalis0@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1153024279.735659.192660@s13g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Hi,
>
> recently I have encountered the following problem
> on my Honda Accord '94.
>
> |Sometimes|, when I try to run the ignition
> it cranks, seems to start for half a second (speedometer shows
> something)
> and then nothing (dies). Also all indicators seems to go off after
> that.
> If I turn the key to off, and try again sometimes the engine
> starts, sometimes not. If I insist it always starts (so far at least!).
>
> I checked the battery, seems fine (12.5V).
> I recently also replaced sparks and rotor cap, so these
> hopefully should be fine.
>
>>From the posts it seems that 3 could be the main causes:
>
> 1. fuel injection main relay
> 2. starter
> 3. fuel pump
>
> Any more concrete suggestions from what I described??
>
> TIA
> michael
>
Check out http://tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#startrun

My money's on the main relay, but follow the checks in the link. In your
Accord, the main relay is attached under the top of the dash right above the
driver's knees (LHD), above a module (cruise control IIRC). Don't try to
unbolt the relay, but pry the tabs a bit and pull the guts out to repair or
replace.

One more tip - main relays typically give more trouble when the interior of
the car is hot than when it is cold.

Mike

As far as the hotness is concerned, it did start having problems
only recently...and it's *very* hot in NY.

michael

Also, today when I tried to start the car, I noticed that
sometimes the dashboard indicators didn't light on
when the key was in the "on" position (first time is happened
I think).

michalis0@gmail.com wrote:
> Also, today when I tried to start the car, I noticed that
> sometimes the dashboard indicators didn't light on
> when the key was in the "on" position (first time is happened
> I think).
>
ignition switch. go to tegger.com for details.

Thanks for the help. Any chances it's the main relay?
Are there any indications to find out which?

If it's the relay I should not hear the fuel pump in the beginning?
(Not sure how that sounds, but it does seem awfully quiet...not sure
though)

thanks!
michael


jim beam wrote:
> michalis0@gmail.com wrote:
> > Also, today when I tried to start the car, I noticed that
> > sometimes the dashboard indicators didn't light on
> > when the key was in the "on" position (first time is happened
> > I think).
> >
> ignition switch. go to tegger.com for details.

michalis0@gmail.com wrote:
> Thanks for the help. Any chances it's the main relay?
> Are there any indications to find out which?

relay often shows a code 16 on the ecu. but the symptoms you describe,
dead gauges, are not main relay.

>
> If it's the relay I should not hear the fuel pump in the beginning?
> (Not sure how that sounds, but it does seem awfully quiet...not sure
> though)
>
> thanks!
> michael
>
>
> jim beam wrote:
>> michalis0@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Also, today when I tried to start the car, I noticed that
>>> sometimes the dashboard indicators didn't light on
>>> when the key was in the "on" position (first time is happened
>>> I think).
>>>
>> ignition switch. go to tegger.com for details.
>

thank you for the advice. It seems
it was the ignition switch.

I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
before putting it to place and the car started
and the lights turned on when at position "II".

To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
to put it to place.

Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
key now

), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
fuse box

it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
the fuse

box burned.

Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
of the battery(!).

After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:

0. At "II" indicators will light
1. At "III" no crank
2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)

Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...

michael

michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:

>
> thank you for the advice. It seems
> it was the ignition switch.
>
> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
> before putting it to place and the car started
> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>
> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
> to put it to place.
>
> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
> key now
>
> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
> fuse box
>
> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
> the fuse
>
> box burned.
>
> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
> of the battery(!).
>
> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>
> 0. At "II" indicators will light
> 1. At "III" no crank
> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>
> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>
> michael
>
>

Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!

Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik wrote:
> michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
> news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
>> thank you for the advice. It seems
>> it was the ignition switch.
>>
>> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
>> before putting it to place and the car started
>> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>>
>> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
>> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
>> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
>> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
>> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
>> to put it to place.
>>
>> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
>> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
>> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
>> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
>> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
>> key now
>>
>> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
>> fuse box
>>
>> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
>> the fuse
>>
>> box burned.
>>
>> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
>> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
>> of the battery(!).
>>
>> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
>> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>>
>> 0. At "II" indicators will light
>> 1. At "III" no crank
>> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
>> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
>> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
>> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>>
>> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
>> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
>> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>>
>> michael
>>
>>
>
> Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
>
> Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
>
for real! maybe the garage is inside his house...

to the op, you can't just mess about with this stuff if you don't know
what you're doing. if you had the proper [helm] manual, it would have
helped you significantly, otherwise you must seek the counsel of someone
that /has/ done it before and /does/ know what they're doing. "learning
on the job" in this situation is potentially very expensive. is your
home owners insurance paid?