Honda Car Forum

Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the
ball joint stud? They currently move as one.

Please help as soon as possible.

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net...
> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud?
> They currently move as one.

The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack under the control
arm and lift enough to put the weight of the car on the taper to jam it
again. You may need to give the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to
help.

GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts turning again, give the
joint a whack again to lock it. Once its out, clean the taper and upright
hole with solvent to remove any grease.

Stewart DIBBS

Stewart DIBBS wrote:
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net...
>
>>Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud?
>>They currently move as one.
>
>
> The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack under the control
> arm and lift enough to put the weight of the car on the taper to jam it
> again. You may need to give the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to
> help.
>
> GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts turning again, give the
> joint a whack again to lock it. Once its out, clean the taper and upright
> hole with solvent to remove any grease.
>
> Stewart DIBBS
>
>
what he said...

Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my
car.

Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without
disassembling the ball joint, after all.

"Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the
>> ball joint stud? They currently move as one.
>
> The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack
> under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of
> the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give
> the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help.
>
> GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts
> turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it.
> Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with
> solvent to remove any grease.
>
> Stewart DIBBS
>

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net...
> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud?
> They currently move as one.
>
> Please help as soon as possible.
>
Also try some brake cleaner in the taper seat before putting pressure on it.
Oil in there is a real problem... as I've found :-(

Mike

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the
>> ball joint stud? They currently move as one.
>>
>> Please help as soon as possible.
>>
> Also try some brake cleaner in the taper seat before
> putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem...
> as I've found :-(

That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of
earlier. :-)

Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time
with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted
notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that
thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling
to prevent the stud from turning.

Elle wrote:
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the
>[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>> putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem...
>> as I've found :-(
>
>That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of
>earlier. :-)
>
>Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time
>with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted
>notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that
>thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling
>to prevent the stud from turning.

Elle: Yeah, that was me. Both ways work equally well. Pick your poison

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200605/1

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:Hiwag.5762$u4.5425@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net:

> Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my
> car.
>
> Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without
> disassembling the ball joint, after all.
>
> "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com> wrote
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the
>>> ball joint stud? They currently move as one.
>>
>> The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack
>> under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of
>> the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give
>> the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help.
>>
>> GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts
>> turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it.
>> Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with
>> solvent to remove any grease.
>>
>> Stewart DIBBS
>>
>
>
>

According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not replaceable,and the
entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any method of
replacing the BJ in the original control arm?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not
> replaceable,and the
> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any
> method of
> replacing the BJ in the original control arm?

I should have clarified that my post above concerns the
lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and
ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic
contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX
manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball
joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle...

Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I don't plan to
replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to
install new lower control arm bushings within the next week
(God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness
from pass. side to dr. side. I need to disconnect the lower
ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble
removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while
thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint,
yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt
in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can
drive the car today and resume work tomorrow.

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:vkHag.163$SX5.41@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net:

> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
>> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not
>> replaceable,and the
>> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any
>> method of
>> replacing the BJ in the original control arm?
>
> I should have clarified that my post above concerns the
> lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and
> ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic
> contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX
> manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball
> joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle...
>
> Not sure what you're asking, otherwise.

I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to
replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to a
shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-;you
must replace the whole upper control wishbone.

I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that upper
BJ without replacing the upper wishbone.

since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers
might know.


> I don't plan to
> replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to
> install new lower control arm bushings within the next week
> (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness
> from pass. side to dr. side.


Have you tried two new springs yet?
ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height springs;evidently that
failed.


> I need to disconnect the lower
> ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble
> removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while
> thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint,
> yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt
> in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can
> drive the car today and resume work tomorrow.
>
>
>



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net