Honda Car Forum

jrlomas@sgintl.com wrote:
> Running great until 100 miles ago. Running well for 20,000 miles after
> rebuild.
> I didn't have to do anything special except point the gun and align the
> lines on the crank pulley with the alignment mark on the timing cover.
> You DO have to jumper the connections with a a jumper wire, and you
> have to wait until the engine has come to normal temperature to do the
> timing.
> The engine is an exact match to the car.

How about a compression test?

Interesting answer... I never thought the problem could be mechanical.
I will run a compression test. I will let you guys know.

Alan wrote:
> jrlomas@sgintl.com wrote:
>
>>Running great until 100 miles ago. Running well for 20,000 miles after
>>rebuild.
>>I didn't have to do anything special except point the gun and align the
>>lines on the crank pulley with the alignment mark on the timing cover.
>>You DO have to jumper the connections with a a jumper wire, and you
>>have to wait until the engine has come to normal temperature to do the
>>timing.
>>The engine is an exact match to the car.
>
>
> How about a compression test?
>
i second that. unless this is something really rudimentary like a
vacuum hose has fallen off, a burnt inlet valve is a good candidate for
the symptoms described. it should be very distinctive on cold cranking
though - instead of 4 even compression cycles, one will "wow" much
faster than the rest.

<jrlomas@sgintl.com> wrote
>I have personally rebuilt the engine... the problem did not
>show up
> after the timing belt replacement, which happened at the
> time the
> engine was replaced. All of the major compenents in the
> car were
> changed in 20,000 miles ago, along with the entire motor.
> The car has
> been running just great until now.
>
>> Almost everybody agrees that Bosch O2 sensors shouldn't
>> be used on Hondas.
> Even then, unplugging the 02 sensor, the car experiences
> exactly the
> same problem I have described.

That's not dispositive.

I personally would not yet eliminate the O2 sensor. That
it's Bosch certainly makes me suspicious.

Two cents.

jrlomas@sgintl.com wrote:
> Interesting answer... I never thought the problem could be mechanical.
> I will run a compression test. I will let you guys know.

I don't know if a bad ring would do that or not.

I've got a '90 Civic doing the same thing. I was thinking that my
timing wasn't advancing right.
Anybody know what makes the timing advance?
Did you try running the car with a jumper wire in the connector for
testing the timing? Would that show anything?

-supa

Alan wrote:
> jrlomas@sgintl.com wrote:
> > Interesting answer... I never thought the problem could be mechanical.
> > I will run a compression test. I will let you guys know.
>
> I don't know if a bad ring would do that or not.

I doubt a ring would cause the problem; though I will certainly check.
The car does not burn any oil.

What causes an inlet valve to burn? I am at work now, but I will run a
compression test later this evening. I will let you guys know the
results. All of you have been very useful... at least I feel I am
going somewhere trying to diagnose the problem.

<jrlomas@sgintl.com> wrote in message
news:1142870641.980151.268390@e56g2000cwe.googlegr oups.com...
> What causes an inlet valve to burn? I am at work now, but I will run a
> compression test later this evening. I will let you guys know the
> results. All of you have been very useful... at least I feel I am
> going somewhere trying to diagnose the problem.
>
The usual cause is inadequate valve lash. If the rockers are too tight the
valve will leak and the combustion gasses will torch a channel in the valve.
That should show up on the compression test, although it may not be shocking
yet.

Mike

I am curious as to whether he has gauged the voltage from the coils at
the spark plugs.
If I've read correctly, he can get the misfire to occur at will by
increasing throttle pressure relative to extant engine RPM--in other
words, putting enough load on the engine--to the point of the voltage
being insufficient to ignite charge.
For what it's worth, it is also within the realm of possibility that
the engine controller itself it the culprit, hence no MIL (check engine
light).
Note that I'm not experienced with Hondas in particular, I'm just
throwing this out as my 2ç.
New to this group (looking at a Honda in a car lot)! :0)