Honda Car Forum

<trestonklease@yahoo.com> wrote
> Yes, I have an owners manual and it has information in it that is
> considered wrong among Honda enthusiasts. Hence there is good reason to
> seek the advice of others regardless of what the owners manual tells
> me.
>
>> One wiseass tends to dampen volunteer enthusiasm.
>
> I could say the same thing about your "owners manual" reply.

No wise-assness was intended. Many Honda owners do not know that the owner's
manual has a maintenance schedule in it.

IMO the valve lash adjustment frequency has declined over the years because
of better technology. My 91 Civic's owner manual recommends a certain
frequency, and it has worked fine.

I can't comment on your differential fluid objection.

Timing belt frequencies in the owner's manual are also considered to be
accurate, based on my reading and my own work with my Honda.

IIRC the 99 CRV manual says 7 years or 105k miles for normal driving
conditions. Since you're about at the 7-year mark, and assuming I am
remembering correctly, then yes, do the timing belt within the next 12
months. It is said by shops and amateurs alike to do the water pump at the
same time, because of the overlap in labor, and the expected life of the
water pump is the same. As for the idler pulley, I'd go with the manual. If
the manual says nothing on it, keep checking back. Certain timing
belt-related parts can be done every other timing belt change.

On the other hand, if you haven't any idea how the vehicle was driven
previously, and I'm wrong about the 7 years, doing the timing belt now is a
good idea. Severe driving conditions of course reduce the time and mileage
interval for the timing belt. These conditions are listed in the owner's
manual...

Elle wrote:
> <trestonklease@yahoo.com> wrote
> > Yes, I have an owners manual and it has information in it that is
> > considered wrong among Honda enthusiasts. Hence there is good reason to
> > seek the advice of others regardless of what the owners manual tells
> > me.
> >
> >> One wiseass tends to dampen volunteer enthusiasm.
> >
> > I could say the same thing about your "owners manual" reply.
>
> No wise-assness was intended. Many Honda owners do not know that the owner's
> manual has a maintenance schedule in it.

No problem.

> IMO the valve lash adjustment frequency has declined over the years because
> of better technology. My 91 Civic's owner manual recommends a certain
> frequency, and it has worked fine.
>
> I can't comment on your differential fluid objection.

I'm not sure I follow you on this. My rear diff was noisy the first
time the 4wd kicked in and I was alarmed until I searched here and
found the cure, changing the fluid. I had visions of costly repairs
until I read what was causing it.

> Timing belt frequencies in the owner's manual are also considered to be
> accurate, based on my reading and my own work with my Honda.
>
> IIRC the 99 CRV manual says 7 years or 105k miles for normal driving
> conditions. Since you're about at the 7-year mark, and assuming I am
> remembering correctly, then yes, do the timing belt within the next 12
> months. It is said by shops and amateurs alike to do the water pump at the
> same time, because of the overlap in labor, and the expected life of the
> water pump is the same. As for the idler pulley, I'd go with the manual. If
> the manual says nothing on it, keep checking back. Certain timing
> belt-related parts can be done every other timing belt change.

Good advice, thank you.



>
> On the other hand, if you haven't any idea how the vehicle was driven
> previously, and I'm wrong about the 7 years, doing the timing belt now is a
> good idea. Severe driving conditions of course reduce the time and mileage
> interval for the timing belt. These conditions are listed in the owner's
> manual...

That is what prompted my concern, few records from the previous owner
have me thinking I should have it done sooner to be on the safe side.
Thanks.

<trestonklease@yahoo.com> wrote
> I'm not sure I follow you on this. My rear diff was noisy the first
> time the 4wd kicked in and I was alarmed until I searched here and
> found the cure, changing the fluid. I had visions of costly repairs
> until I read what was causing it.

I just meant that I am not read up on the subject. I am in no position to
dispute your finding. But if Curly was the one who steered you this way,
that does not surprise me. He is one of many fine contributors here with
important experience to share.

Hopefully more will chime in with comments on the tires and suspension, etc.
I am a mere, puny 91 Civic owner. :-)

trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> I bought a 1999 CRV a while ago and recenty had the valves adjusted.
<SNIP>
European manuals say 50,000Km for the valves (30,000 Miles). The Dual
pump Fluid only lasts 50,000 Km / two years.
An oil change might make that valve quiet down, but Tegger's right, it's
a 'happy valve' as long as the mechanic didn't fail tighten the locknut
:-)
Add all the extra DOTS to your owner's manual maintenance schedule, and
you'll impress the person you sell it to in ten years.
The TBelt has 6 years on it. I think it's time anyway. Personally, I
wouldn't change the water pump unless I knew the former owner was using
non-honda coolant or TAP WATER (Hondacide). The idler pulley will
probably last until the fourth or fifth TBelt, unless you're someplace
really hot.

'Curly'

trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> I bought a 1999 CRV <SNIP>
> And lastly, this thing has so many clunks and bangs from the
> suspension, it's very irritating. The dealer says they found nothing
> abnormal and according to the work order "found no abnormal noises,
> sounds like similar vehicles. What???? Honda engineered and built a
> vehicle that sounds like this on purpose? They said the bushing are
> good. Any suggestions on that?
>
> TIA.

Do a google (or eBay) search for rear stabilizer links. You can get two
for the price of one on eBay. The get very noisy when going over bumps.
Clack clack. For the road test your dealer sent a mechanic who wears no
hearing protection while using air tools. Find a bumpy dirt road and get
your helper to (carefully) hang out the tailgate or door to see where
it's coming from. You're supposed to be able to get them off with a
14?mm wrench and a 5mm allen wrench, but you should have a nut-splitter
at the ready to cut the frustration level down. :-)

'Curly'

'Curly Q. Links' wrote:
> trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> > I bought a 1999 CRV a while ago and recenty had the valves adjusted.
> <SNIP>
> European manuals say 50,000Km for the valves (30,000 Miles). The Dual
> pump Fluid only lasts 50,000 Km / two years.
> An oil change might make that valve quiet down, but Tegger's right, it's
> a 'happy valve' as long as the mechanic didn't fail tighten the locknut
> :-)

Would it have to be a constant, rhythmic tick for it to be a valve?

It's like random,
tick-tick-pause-pause-pause-tick-pause-pause-tick-tick-tick...

I just changed the oil about 3 weeks ago. I assume I'd have to open the
valve cover to see if it's the locknut? It's been run about 2500 miles
since I first noticed the ticking, if it was the locknut, would it have
done something more by now, like fall off or cause some other problem?
I've never done something like pull the valve cover on a vehicle so I'm
a little apprehensive at that prospect.

> Add all the extra DOTS to your owner's manual maintenance schedule, and
> you'll impress the person you sell it to in ten years.

I'm gonna run it forever.

> The TBelt has 6 years on it. I think it's time anyway. Personally, I
> wouldn't change the water pump unless I knew the former owner was using
> non-honda coolant or TAP WATER (Hondacide). The idler pulley will
> probably last until the fourth or fifth TBelt, unless you're someplace
> really hot.

That's my main problem, no info on what the past owner did or didn't do
or what they used. I'll get that TBelt replaced then. Thanks for the
great info, all of you.

'Curly Q. Links' wrote:
> trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> > I bought a 1999 CRV <SNIP>
> > And lastly, this thing has so many clunks and bangs from the
> > suspension, it's very irritating. The dealer says they found nothing
> > abnormal and according to the work order "found no abnormal noises,
> > sounds like similar vehicles. What???? Honda engineered and built a
> > vehicle that sounds like this on purpose? They said the bushing are
> > good. Any suggestions on that?
> >
> > TIA.
>
> Do a google (or eBay) search for rear stabilizer links. You can get two
> for the price of one on eBay. The get very noisy when going over bumps.
> Clack clack. For the road test your dealer sent a mechanic who wears no
> hearing protection while using air tools. Find a bumpy dirt road and get
> your helper to (carefully) hang out the tailgate or door to see where
> it's coming from. You're supposed to be able to get them off with a
> 14?mm wrench and a 5mm allen wrench, but you should have a nut-splitter
> at the ready to cut the frustration level down. :-)
>
> 'Curly'

Thanks for that bit of info. I'll get my wife to drive it tomorrow
while I hang out back and listen.

trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
Find a bumpy dirt road and get
> > your helper to (carefully) hang out the tailgate or door to see where
> > it's coming from. You're supposed to be able to get them off with a
> > 14?mm wrench and a 5mm allen wrench, but you should have a nut-splitter
> > at the ready to cut the frustration level down. :-)
> >
> > 'Curly'
>
> Thanks for that bit of info. I'll get my wife to drive it tomorrow
> while I hang out back and listen.


--------------------------------

A camcorder (a light one) does a great job when you can't get your own
ear in close.

'Curly'

trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
> Would it have to be a constant, rhythmic tick for it to be a valve?
>
> It's like random,
> tick-tick-pause-pause-pause-tick-pause-pause-tick-tick-tick...
---
Sounds more like your PCV clicking. Use a couple feet of garden hose or
heater hose to listen for it. Pinch the hose and see if it changes the
noise.

----------------------
if it was the locknut, would it have
> done something more by now, like fall off or cause some other problem?
----
You'd have a misfire indication, or backfiring, or 25% power loss by now
(we were pulling your leg a bit)

------------------------

> That's my main problem, no info on what the past owner did or didn't do
> or what they used. I'll get that TBelt replaced then. Thanks for the
> great info, all of you.
---
Find the dealer where they had it serviced and just walk in. Tell them
you're the new owner (have registration in your pocket) and ask if
they'd please give you PRINTS of all the service. It always works for
me. Have them photocopy your registration and fax it to Honda CORPORATE
(whatever country you are in). Then you'll get future notification of
recalls, etc. While there, get the other info like actual date in
service, which location sold it, whether the ignition switch recall was
performed, and other outstanding recalls. Have you got the real owner's
manual, and the radio CODE (if needed)?


'Curly'

'Curly Q. Links' wrote:
> trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
> > Would it have to be a constant, rhythmic tick for it to be a valve?
> >
> > It's like random,
> > tick-tick-pause-pause-pause-tick-pause-pause-tick-tick-tick...
> ---
> Sounds more like your PCV clicking. Use a couple feet of garden hose or
> heater hose to listen for it. Pinch the hose and see if it changes the
> noise.
>
> ----------------------
> if it was the locknut, would it have
> > done something more by now, like fall off or cause some other problem?
> ----
> You'd have a misfire indication, or backfiring, or 25% power loss by now
> (we were pulling your leg a bit)
>
> ------------------------
>
> > That's my main problem, no info on what the past owner did or didn't do
> > or what they used. I'll get that TBelt replaced then. Thanks for the
> > great info, all of you.
> ---
> Find the dealer where they had it serviced and just walk in. Tell them
> you're the new owner (have registration in your pocket) and ask if
> they'd please give you PRINTS of all the service. It always works for
> me. Have them photocopy your registration and fax it to Honda CORPORATE
> (whatever country you are in). Then you'll get future notification of
> recalls, etc. While there, get the other info like actual date in
> service, which location sold it, whether the ignition switch recall was
> performed, and other outstanding recalls. Have you got the real owner's
> manual, and the radio CODE (if needed)?

Thanks for all the advice. Contacted the dealer today. I have the
original manual. Vehicle has an aftermarket CD player/radio that uses a
code that I picked myself.