Honda Car Forum

"Nate Nagel" <njnagel@flycast.net> wrote in message
news:dp6uf5021kh@news2.newsguy.com...
> fweddybear wrote:
>> "Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence_Glickman@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:2audr15j8gcs2lfc5p15plffrupe3tnbti@4ax.com...
>>
>>>On 31 Dec 2005 13:07:38 -0800, "Danny Beardsley" <dbeardsl@gmail.com>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>In the process of trying to replace my O2 (Oxygen) sensor on my 1993
>>>>honda civic EX, I broke the old one off. I tried some usual stuff,
>>>>knocking it with a hammer, liberal WD-40, running the car for a bit to
>>>>heat up the manifold. Anyway, TINK! it broke. Any suggestions?
>>>>
>>>>Two pictures of the sensor and manifold
>>>>http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?i...anifold7eh.jpg
>>>>http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2sensor9it.jpg
>>>
>>>Liquid Wrench penetrating oil. Soak repeatedly. Then pull all the
>>>garbage out of the center of the O2 sensor that is still in the
>>>manifold, and use an EZ OUT, or just drill the sucker with a large
>>>drill bit until it spins off on its own.
>>>
>>>Lg
>>>
>>>WD 40 is $hit in a can.
>>
>>
>> Or you can also use a pipe tool that when you turn it
>> counterclockwise, will grab the inside of whatever is left in there and
>> will come out. I had a similar problem with my lawn tractor.... the
>> drain pipe for the oil was way too short and wanted to lenghten it. Well
>> somehow, it broke off right at the edge of the engine block and I used
>> one of those pipe tools that goes inside. I got it at home repo (depot)
>> for not too much.
>>
>> Good Luck,
>>
>> Fwed
>
> Hmm, I've never seen what you're describing, but it sounds like something
> to add to the bag o' tricks. Is this a plumbing tool? I will have to
> look next time I'm at Home Despot.
>
> nate
>
> PS - I have never had any luck with EZ-outs. They always seem to break on
> me.

Yes, they are sold at home depot....when i had this problem, i didn't
know what to do either until I went there and started asking around..... one
of the people there showed me it....and told me it works wonders...forgot
how much it is, but I don't think it was too much.... it comes in three
sizes....well the one i have did...

good luck,

Fwed

"Nate Nagel" <njnagel@flycast.net> wrote in message
news:dp6uf5021kh@news2.newsguy.com...
> PS - I have never had any luck with EZ-outs. They always seem to break on
> me.
>
I share your frustration. If they grip, they love to break... but often they
just don't bite well enough.

I had a thought, though. The threads are jammed because they have tried to
weld together, with the "pull" direction being the main force. When the
EZ-out is seated, how about a few judicious taps with a hammer (or whatever
will fit in the space available) on the end of the EZ-out to try to weaken
those welds?

MIke

"Misterbeets" <misterbeets@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136064598.855275.191980@g14g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Might try a radial cut with a small hacksaw blade.
>
That sounds like a good idea, if there is room to get it.

Mike

Soak with PB Blaster an hour. Try an EZ-Out, some tapping
(vibrations work wonders, like Michael suggests). EZ-Outs
often fail, but they often work, too. They may be had at
Autozone. Otherwise, what others said.

In my experience, PB Blaster is superior to Liquid Wrench,
by a lot. They are about the same price. PB Blaster worked
great on my exhaust system bolts last year, though the
closer I got to the manifold, the tougher freeing bolts
became.

Updates are welcome. Good luck.

"Danny Beardsley" <dbeardsl@gmail.com> wrote
> In the process of trying to replace my O2 (Oxygen) sensor
on my 1993
> honda civic EX, I broke the old one off. I tried some
usual stuff,
> knocking it with a hammer, liberal WD-40, running the car
for a bit to
> heat up the manifold. Anyway, TINK! it broke. Any
suggestions?

HEAT. Grab a torch (MAPP or propane will work just take a bit longer)
Heat the remaining part and the manifold till it is red hot and then
spray it with some good lube(Kroil, PB Blaster or the like NOT WD40). It
will smoke like crazy. Let it cool and wipe it off. Now heat it again
and drive a tapered square style EZ OUT in good. let it set a bit and
turn it out. should come out easily this way.

--
Steve Williams
Near Cooperstown, New York

"Danny Beardsley" <dbeardsl@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136063258.216352.276710@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
> In the process of trying to replace my O2 (Oxygen) sensor on my 1993
> honda civic EX, I broke the old one off. I tried some usual stuff,
> knocking it with a hammer, liberal WD-40, running the car for a bit to
> heat up the manifold. Anyway, TINK! it broke. Any suggestions?
>
> Two pictures of the sensor and manifold
> http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?i...anifold7eh.jpg
> http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2sensor9it.jpg
>
>



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Danny Beardsley wrote:
>
> In the process of trying to replace my O2 (Oxygen) sensor on my 1993
> honda civic EX, I broke the old one off. I tried some usual stuff,
> knocking it with a hammer, liberal WD-40, running the car for a bit to
> heat up the manifold. Anyway, TINK! it broke. Any suggestions?
>
> Two pictures of the sensor and manifold
> http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?i...anifold7eh.jpg
> http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2sensor9it.jpg

If it were my car I would:
Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time.
1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe.
2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads.
3) Knock the slit pieces into the exhaust pipe.
4) Install new O2 sensor.

| WD 40 is $hit in a can.

Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
it cannot loosen rusty bolts.

"Steve W." wrote:
>
> HEAT. Grab a torch (MAPP or propane will work just take a bit longer)
> Heat the remaining part and the manifold till it is red hot and then
> spray it with some good lube(Kroil, PB Blaster or the like NOT WD40). It
> will smoke like crazy. Let it cool and wipe it off. Now heat it again
> and drive a tapered square style EZ OUT in good. let it set a bit and
> turn it out. should come out easily this way.
>

Heat was going to be my recommendation as well (though without spraying it
with penetrating oil while it was hot). Once it's hot, try using the EZ
out. Though, I tend to prefer the spiral fluted extractors over the taper
square style. In addition, make sure that you're not putting a side load on
the extractor, just a twisting load. Side loads tend to make them brake.
If you're going to drill it, then be sure to use left handed drill bits
since they will help to loosen the remaining piece from the threads. Still,
it looks like there's enough rust in there to require heating with a torch.

Eric

TE Cheah wrote:
> | WD 40 is $hit in a can.
>
> Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
> it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
>

Probably because it's become "common knowledge" that it works; kind of
like "Budweiser is good beer."

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Nate Nagel <njnagel@flycast.net> writes:
>TE Cheah wrote:
>> | WD 40 is $hit in a can.
>>
>> Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
>> it cannot loosen rusty bolts.

>Probably because it's become "common knowledge" that it works; kind of
>like "Budweiser is good beer."

Budweiser is beer?
--
/"\ Bernd Felsche - Innovative Reckoning, Perth, Western Australia
\ / ASCII ribbon campaign | German words of the year 2005:
X against HTML mail | Bundeskanzlerin Tsunami Gammelfleisch
/ \ and postings | Sadly, in that order.