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This evening (yes - Christmas eve) my daughter's '93 Accord LX (225K miles)
suffered a short bout of engine failure. She described it as surging a couple times when she tried to accelerate, then the engine died when she braked. I quizzed her about the tach and she was clear it was jumping rather than swinging with the engine. It didn't start right away, but would sputter occasionally and eventually lit off as though flooded (which it probably was by then). The Main Relay and ignitor are each about a year old (but both are NAPA aftermarket, since the car insists on breaking down on Sundays and holidays). The timing belt is 4 years, 60K miles old. My son and I replaced the radiator about 2 weeks ago, so I am wondering if we stirred up evil spirits in the process of that. He bled the system carefully, but a leak in the lower radiator hose attachment may have let air in. I haven't done a visual inspection yet, but will in the morning. What comes to mind? Ignition switch? Some particular underhood wiring? Distributor? Something I'm forgetting? She is committed to driving to San Diego in a week or so and I'd sure like to sort this out by then. TIA Mike |
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How old's the ignition coil?
I'd try to do a check of it early on. Dying when braking--then being able to restart it after a cooldown period, at least until the coil fails completely--is a symptom. I know you have a lot of experience with Hondas. This is just where I'd start, based on the car's age and symptoms. "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote > This evening (yes - Christmas eve) my daughter's '93 Accord LX (225K miles) > suffered a short bout of engine failure. She described it as surging a > couple times when she tried to accelerate, then the engine died when she > braked. I quizzed her about the tach and she was clear it was jumping rather > than swinging with the engine. It didn't start right away, but would sputter > occasionally and eventually lit off as though flooded (which it probably was > by then). > > The Main Relay and ignitor are each about a year old (but both are NAPA > aftermarket, since the car insists on breaking down on Sundays and > holidays). The timing belt is 4 years, 60K miles old. My son and I replaced > the radiator about 2 weeks ago, so I am wondering if we stirred up evil > spirits in the process of that. He bled the system carefully, but a leak in > the lower radiator hose attachment may have let air in. I haven't done a > visual inspection yet, but will in the morning. > > What comes to mind? Ignition switch? Some particular underhood wiring? > Distributor? Something I'm forgetting? She is committed to driving to San > Diego in a week or so and I'd sure like to sort this out by then. > > TIA > > Mike > > |
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"Elle" <honda.lioness@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:J8qrf.9529$3Z.8773@newsread1.news.atl.earthli nk.net... > How old's the ignition coil? > > I'd try to do a check of it early on. Dying when > braking--then being able to restart it after a cooldown > period, at least until the coil fails completely--is a > symptom. > > I know you have a lot of experience with Hondas. This is > just where I'd start, based on the car's age and symptoms. > I'd forgotten about that! The coil is the original. I might be wise to shotgun it out, whether or not I find something else wrong. I should even have time to get an OEM part before she leaves. At least that is something I don't have to worry about disturbing unnecessarily - I hate doing invasive work so soon before a big trip. Thanks, Elle! Mike |
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Michael Pardee wrote: > This evening (yes - Christmas eve) my daughter's '93 Accord LX (225K miles) > suffered a short bout of engine failure. She described it as surging a > couple times when she tried to accelerate, then the engine died when she > braked. I quizzed her about the tach and she was clear it was jumping rather > than swinging with the engine. It didn't start right away, but would sputter > occasionally and eventually lit off as though flooded (which it probably was > by then). > > The Main Relay and ignitor are each about a year old (but both are NAPA > aftermarket, since the car insists on breaking down on Sundays and > holidays). The timing belt is 4 years, 60K miles old. My son and I replaced > the radiator about 2 weeks ago, so I am wondering if we stirred up evil > spirits in the process of that. He bled the system carefully, but a leak in > the lower radiator hose attachment may have let air in. I haven't done a > visual inspection yet, but will in the morning. > > What comes to mind? Ignition switch? Some particular underhood wiring? > Distributor? Something I'm forgetting? She is committed to driving to San > Diego in a week or so and I'd sure like to sort this out by then. > I wonder if the problem is electrical in nature, because the RPMs were jumping around wildly. Since the tach and engine timing both get their signal from the crank sensor, I'd also look in that area. Remco |
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Remco wrote:
> I wonder if the problem is electrical in nature, because the RPMs were > jumping around wildly. > > Since the tach and engine timing both get their signal from the crank > sensor, I'd also look in that area. I thought I read on here recently that an erratic tach that precedes a cut-out is a sign of a bad igniter. |
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High Tech Misfit wrote:
> Remco wrote: > > > I wonder if the problem is electrical in nature, because the RPMs were > > jumping around wildly. > > > > Since the tach and engine timing both get their signal from the crank > > sensor, I'd also look in that area. > > I thought I read on here recently that an erratic tach that precedes a > cut-out is a sign of a bad igniter. Not sure about any previous post on this issue, but the ignitor seems to just be a larger power transistor (probably a darlington, but that's besides a point). The way this transistor is configured, it simply acts as a switch that that closes/opens a contact when its input changes states (to simplify it all, imagine a relay with a coil and contact - that is not quite what a transistor is, but behaves quite similarly the way an ignitor is hooked up). When a level is applied to its input, it switches the primary side (the 12V side, basically) of the coil to ground and does this at a very high rate of speed. The secondary of the coil is what generates a high voltage spark. The output of the ignitor does not seem to attach to anything else so iti it breaks you won't have spark. I don't think the tach is getting its signal from the ignitor, so don't see how one can tell by the tach that the ignitor is bad. If you somehow can detect this on the tach, it must be some sort of weird artifact. Remco |
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"Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1135557540.299326.204340@g43g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... > High Tech Misfit wrote: >> Remco wrote: >> >> > I wonder if the problem is electrical in nature, because the RPMs were >> > jumping around wildly. >> > >> > Since the tach and engine timing both get their signal from the crank >> > sensor, I'd also look in that area. >> >> I thought I read on here recently that an erratic tach that precedes a >> cut-out is a sign of a bad igniter. > > Not sure about any previous post on this issue, but the ignitor seems > to just be a larger power transistor (probably a darlington, but that's > besides a point). > > The way this transistor is configured, it simply acts as a switch that > that closes/opens a contact when its input changes states (to simplify > it all, imagine a relay with a coil and contact - that is not quite > what a transistor is, but behaves quite similarly the way an ignitor is > hooked up). > When a level is applied to its input, it switches the primary side (the > 12V side, basically) of the coil to ground and does this at a very high > rate of speed. The secondary of the coil is what generates a high > voltage spark. > The output of the ignitor does not seem to attach to anything else so > iti it breaks you won't have spark. > > I don't think the tach is getting its signal from the ignitor, so don't > see how one can tell by the tach that the ignitor is bad. If you > somehow can detect this on the tach, it must be some sort of weird > artifact. > > Remco > Actually, I believe the tach does get its signal from a separate lead on the igniter. The current symptoms do sound like igniter trouble, but the igniter (and tune-up parts) are a little less than a year old... from March, IIRC. I might be wise to re-heatsink the igniter, though. What makes me think it isn't distributor sensor trouble is that there is no "check engine" light, suggesting the problem is past the ECU... i.e. igniter or coil, or high tension side (like the rotor or cap.) Mike |
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"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote
> Actually, I believe the tach does get its signal from a separate lead on the > igniter. The electrical diagram for the ignition system suggests you are remembering correctly. See the top schematic at http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id5.html . Tegger's version appears to confirm it: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...ion/index.html > The current symptoms do sound like igniter trouble, but the igniter > (and tune-up parts) are a little less than a year old... from March, IIRC. I > might be wise to re-heatsink the igniter, though. > > What makes me think it isn't distributor sensor trouble is that there is no > "check engine" light, suggesting the problem is past the ECU... i.e. igniter > or coil, or high tension side (like the rotor or cap.) Plus ISTM igniters don't exactly seem to die slowly, at least not the way coils often do. Igniters seem more like an all-or-nothing deal, with symptoms only for the very observant, at best. |
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"Elle" <honda.lioness@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:gQLrf.10315$nm.920@newsread2.news.atl.earthli nk.net... > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote >> Actually, I believe the tach does get its signal from a > separate lead on the >> igniter. > > The electrical diagram for the ignition system suggests you > are remembering correctly. See the top schematic at > http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id5.html . Tegger's > version appears to confirm it: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...ion/index.html > > >> The current symptoms do sound like igniter trouble, but > the igniter >> (and tune-up parts) are a little less than a year old... > from March, IIRC. I >> might be wise to re-heatsink the igniter, though. >> >> What makes me think it isn't distributor sensor trouble is > that there is no >> "check engine" light, suggesting the problem is past the > ECU... i.e. igniter >> or coil, or high tension side (like the rotor or cap.) > > Plus ISTM igniters don't exactly seem to die slowly, at > least not the way coils often do. Igniters seem more like an > all-or-nothing deal, with symptoms only for the very > observant, at best. > > I have a Bosch coil ordered through alleurasianautoparts.com, should be here by Wednesday. Since there really is no way to determine whether the coil is failing intermittently and 225K miles is a lot of service to expect from one, it seemed like the prudent thing to do. I can check the ignition switch by seeing if the voltage across it fluctuates from one time to the next, but the coil keeps its secrets. In my experience, the more power a device handles the more likely it is to have a limited life. An ignition coil has to transform hefty currents into hefty high voltage jolts, so I don't expect it to last forever. Thanks again for the suggestion. Mike |
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Elle wrote:
> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote > > Actually, I believe the tach does get its signal from a > separate lead on the > > igniter. > > The electrical diagram for the ignition system suggests you > are remembering correctly. See the top schematic at > http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id5.html . Tegger's > version appears to confirm it: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...ion/index.html > You're absolutely right - I stand corrected and didn't mean to mislead anyone. It has been a while since I looked at the ignitor and didn't have my manual handy, but that's a bad defense <blushing> This is why we need those pros, huh ![]() Remco |
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