Honda Car Forum

Still working on the non-starting problem with my 1994 Honda Civic EX. Would
appreciate opinions as to whether I should replace the coil or the whole
distributor....

The resistance between terminals makes it look like I have a bad coil:

(1) Check that the primary winding resistance between terminals A and B is
0.6-0.8 ohms.
RESULT: Mine floats between .001 and .400 ohms depending on where I put the
leads. This is way BELOW the spec.

(2) Check that the secondary winding resistance between terminals A and the
coil tower is 12,800-19,200 ohms.
RESULT: Mine floats around 15K-16K. This looks OK.

COMPLICATIONS: the screws on the terminals and distributor rotor are badly
corroded. I got metal shavings all over the place extracting the screws.
Also subjected the distributor to some physical abuse getting the rotor
screw out.

---> Should I just replace the coil ($85), or play it safe and pay up for a
new distributor ($180)?

Would appreciate any thoughts based on past experience... tx.

Will the new distributor be OEM? If so, from whom are you buying it? Is it
used or new? If used, how many miles?

Two years ago my 91 Civic LX's coil died, but complicating this in the
preceding months had been a stripped rotor set screw. The rotor kept coming
off, leaving me stranded. Stupid dealer didn't figure it out. Per someone's
advice here, I drilled a hole through the distributor shaft and rotor and
used a cotter pin to affix the new rotor. Seemed to work great. Then the
coil problems began, though at the time, neither the independent shop nor I
knew the coil was bad. It insisted the problem was my cotter-pin revision to
the rotor-shaft assembly. So they sell me a new distributor, with a new
shaft, etc., and the newest rotor now affixed again with a new set screw. A
week later the car dies again (though I was seeing problems as soon as I
drove it out the shop's door). Now they say the coil died. So I had them
replace the coil. They also convinced me to replace the ignitor, too, since
they claimed a failing coil can adversely affect the ignitor. Having had
previous bad experience with the ignitor, and not feeling very good aboutthe
shop at this point, I bought the ignitor but decided to install it myself.

After all this, I felt ripped off, because it seemed I didn't need a new
distributor housing. However, after reading here over the years, I know that
the distributor housing does age; the bearing starts to fail; the threads on
the shaft for the rotor set screw do fail. A new distributor housing was
probably a good idea about that time, anyway.

If you can get an OEM distributor housing and new coil all for $180, I'd go
this way.

You should check ebay for its listings on OEM distributor housings. There
are some for 94 Civics there now, but you'll want to examine the ad closely.
E.g. is the distributor OEM? Brand new? (I'd welcome the input of anyone who
has bought a Honda distributor via Ebay.)

I would not buy non-OEM distributor parts.

The distributor (and its subcomponents: rotor set screw; ignitor; coil;
bearing) are the Achilles Heel of circa early 1990s Hondas. Fortunately, if
you know what to look for, you can deal with the distributor problems as
they crop up. My 91 Civic has had no problems for 2.5 years now, though I
watch it like a hawk.

"hutchtoo" <hutchtoo@gmail.com> wrote
> Still working on the non-starting problem with my 1994 Honda Civic EX.
Would
> appreciate opinions as to whether I should replace the coil or the whole
> distributor....
>
> The resistance between terminals makes it look like I have a bad coil:
>
> (1) Check that the primary winding resistance between terminals A and B is
> 0.6-0.8 ohms.
> RESULT: Mine floats between .001 and .400 ohms depending on where I put
the
> leads. This is way BELOW the spec.
>
> (2) Check that the secondary winding resistance between terminals A and
the
> coil tower is 12,800-19,200 ohms.
> RESULT: Mine floats around 15K-16K. This looks OK.
>
> COMPLICATIONS: the screws on the terminals and distributor rotor are badly
> corroded. I got metal shavings all over the place extracting the screws.
> Also subjected the distributor to some physical abuse getting the rotor
> screw out.
>
> ---> Should I just replace the coil ($85), or play it safe and pay up for
a
> new distributor ($180)?
>
> Would appreciate any thoughts based on past experience... tx.
>
>

This is a rusty car I'll be replacing within a year. Would you STILL insist
on OEM parts? I have an autozone down the street that has a distributor for
substantially less than the cheapest OEM options....

> The distributor (and its subcomponents: rotor set screw; ignitor; coil;
> bearing) are the Achilles Heel of circa early 1990s Hondas.

So when you buy a new distributor, do you get the whole shebang? i.e. does a
distributor housing include the new coil and ignitor too?

For example, see the price difference (source: San Leandro Honda)

30100-P08-006 DISTRIBUTOR ASSY. (TD-42U) (TEC) $459.49
30105-P08-006 HOUSING, DISTRIBUTOR $274.16

I've thought about it a lot. If you're keeping it only a year, I think it's
just a toss-up as to which direction you take. In other words, if you use
non-OEM parts, I wouldn't count on it lasting a year. But it might.

Do you have any interest in using Ebay (and so you can wait as much as a
week for the part to arrive)? There's a company called "Distributor King"
selling distributors there, and it has an impressive looking warranty. Just
do a search at www.ebay.com for {distributor civic}. Distributor King's
distributors include a new ignitor, cap, rotor, everything. See
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-9...EC-Ignition-Di
stributor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33690QQitemZ7 995718758QQrdZ1

I've never used them, but under your conditions, and based on my experience,
I'd consider them.

You could also just buy a new OEM coil (about $80 from www.slhonda.com), and
roll the dice with the old distributor.

You might need a new ignitor. Have you tried some diagnostics on it?


"hutchtoo" <hutchtoo@gmail.com> wrote
> This is a rusty car I'll be replacing within a year. Would you STILL
insist
> on OEM parts? I have an autozone down the street that has a distributor
for
> substantially less than the cheapest OEM options....
>
>

"hutchtoo" <hutchtoo@gmail.com> wrote
> > The distributor (and its subcomponents: rotor set screw; ignitor; coil;
> > bearing) are the Achilles Heel of circa early 1990s Hondas.
>
> So when you buy a new distributor, do you get the whole shebang? i.e. does
a
> distributor housing include the new coil and ignitor too?

Not necessarily, so you're right to ask. You especially now want to ask what
Autozone is offering you for $180 (if you have not already). Just the
housing (that's my bet)? Or the housing with a new coil? Or the housing with
a new ignitor and coil? I suspect

See my previous post for mention of a dealer on Ebay that sells the whole
shebang and is something on which I, for one, under your conditions, would
gamble. (But all your options are gambles!)

> For example, see the price difference (source: San Leandro Honda)
>
> 30100-P08-006 DISTRIBUTOR ASSY. (TD-42U) (TEC) $459.49

I am pretty sure the above is the whole shebang: Housing, coil, ignitor,
etc.

> 30105-P08-006 HOUSING, DISTRIBUTOR $274.16

The housing by itself will not have the coil nor ignitor.

Yep, it's a beater and I drive it about 50 miles a week to get to my train
station, that's it

Funny you should mention Distributor King, I was just looking at their
listings and 100% feedback, looks credible. Canadian outfit. I just don't
have time to wait for shpping with my commute I need to fix it myself this
weekend or throw in the towel and have it towed on Tues -- which is why
Autozone is my easiest option.

I haven't looked at the ignitor yet. Was having some trouble finding the
test appropriate for a 94 civic
http://tinyurl.com/ajuuy

Thanks for the input.

OK then, if Autozone has the whole pkg for $180 I'll probably do it
tomorrow, easy enough to find out at the counter.

I respect the experience of the group and the strong reco for OEM parts.
However, for a low mileage beater* this is in large part a cost decision
while I wait to upgrade to a late 90s or early 00s Accord within the year.

* also rusty, in sore need of body work, great for a winter/city commuting
car when you WANT to have nothing to lose

"hutchtoo" <hutchtoo@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:mfSdnY0fm4BDoofeRVn-1Q@rcn.net...
> Yep, it's a beater and I drive it about 50 miles a week to get to my train
> station, that's it
>
> Funny you should mention Distributor King, I was just looking at their
> listings and 100% feedback, looks credible. Canadian outfit. I just don't
> have time to wait for shpping with my commute I need to fix it myself this
> weekend or throw in the towel and have it towed on Tues -- which is why
> Autozone is my easiest option.
>
> I haven't looked at the ignitor yet. Was having some trouble finding the
> test appropriate for a 94 civic
> http://tinyurl.com/ajuuy
>
> Thanks for the input.


Do you know if the ignitor has ever been replaced?

Based on my experience, an early 1990s Civic that suddenly refuses to turn
over at all under any conditions is most likely to have a failed ignitor.

Coils often fail slowly, allowing the car to run sometimes, with erratic RPM
at idle, and being very temperature dependent. If you've seen none of this,
I'd be checking the ignitor.

Try the 1990-1994 Honda Concerto manual for checking the ignitor, coil, etc.
at
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/ConcertoManual/index.html . Click on
"electrical," then "distributor." The third page gives the ignitor test. The
12th page gives the coil test. Good drawings.

Have you eliminated the main relay as being the main problem? Did you get a
new distributor cap? New ignition wires? I'm really not sure where you're
at, based on your other posts, and I don't want to say something that would
be inappropriate if, for example, you haven't changed the distributor cap.

Hang in there. I suspect there's life in this car yet, unless, say, it
really has been very poorly maintained for years...

> Based on my experience, an early 1990s Civic that suddenly refuses to turn
> over at all under any conditions is most likely to have a failed ignitor.

It had a non-start incident once, about 2 months ago.

> Coils often fail slowly, allowing the car to run sometimes, with erratic
> RPM
> at idle, and being very temperature dependent. If you've seen none of
> this,
> I'd be checking the ignitor.

The coils are my top suspect. I wonder if the Park/Neutral revving I saw
recently is the same as erratic RPMs.

> Have you eliminated the main relay as being the main problem?

Yes, it clicks 3 times.

> Did you get a new distributor cap?

Yes, that was the first thing I replaced last week.

> New ignition wires?

> Hang in there. I suspect there's life in this car yet, unless, say, it
> really has been very poorly maintained for years...

Hondas are fine cars, 12 good years so far....