Honda Car Forum

Hi guys,

I am not sure what the name of part that is damaged. I had a new belt
installed on my A/C compressor, and the guy said that I needed to get
my left wheel fixed.

The rubber is broken off as you can see in the picture, but what I am
trying to do is figure out the name of the part that I need to buy, and
get replaced. I am not sure if this is something I can do, as I bet you
need special tools, and I don't want to mess something up.

What does it look like is appeared to be wrong? and if so would you
know how much it should cost me? the guy said it will cost about $200 +
parts.

I rather buy the parts, because I know it will be cheaper than if I get
them off them, as they always jack up the prices.

Thanks

http://mopa.net/fotos/left-wheel-joint.jpg

"mopa" <buttakid@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:1120834934.599242.28290@g44g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com:


>
> http://mopa.net/fotos/left-wheel-joint.jpg
>
>



That's your "outer CV joint"! At this point the safest thing to do is get
the whole driveshaft replaced.

A qualified mechanic would be able to tell you if you can get away with
just replacing the boot. It would depend on the condition of the joint.
Once dirt and water gets in, it will wreck itself fairly quickly.

Mind if I use your pic on my Web site?

And hey people, THIS is why you need to check your boots at every oil
change!

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"mopa" <buttakid@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:1120834934.599242.28290@g44g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com:


>
> http://mopa.net/fotos/left-wheel-joint.jpg
>


By the way, it would be a good idea to spend 50 cents to put a rubber cap
back on the bleeder screw.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"mopa" <buttakid@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1120834934.599242.28290@g44g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi guys,
>
> I am not sure what the name of part that is damaged. I had a new belt
> installed on my A/C compressor, and the guy said that I needed to get
> my left wheel fixed.
>
> The rubber is broken off as you can see in the picture, but what I am
> trying to do is figure out the name of the part that I need to buy, and
> get replaced. I am not sure if this is something I can do, as I bet you
> need special tools, and I don't want to mess something up.
>
> What does it look like is appeared to be wrong? and if so would you
> know how much it should cost me? the guy said it will cost about $200 +
> parts.
>
> I rather buy the parts, because I know it will be cheaper than if I get
> them off them, as they always jack up the prices.
>
> Thanks
>
> http://mopa.net/fotos/left-wheel-joint.jpg
>
That's a great picture! As TeGGeR says, the axle needs to be replaced. Shop
around - $200 (US?) plus parts is very high. My local shop charged $65 US
plus parts when I didn't have air tools. Even the dealer quoted slightly
over $300 US parts (new!) and labor with tax. The axle should be under $100
US exchange (don't damage the threads if you DIY). Some places will try to
sell you an alignment with it - replacing the axle does *not* affect the
alignment. Unless the handling is squirrelly or the tires are wearing funny
already, refuse the alignment.

Mike

Mike

Thanks TeGGeR, and Michael.

Well, what is the name of all the part that I would need to get this
completely fixed, and the prices of those parts. I will then have to
get someone to install them for me, as this seems to be work, and I
don't frankly want to screw anything up. We are talking about driving
here, not just a easy change a bulb fix. :O(

Tegger, oh your more then free to use my pictures, as I know you do
this kind of stuff all the time to help people out.

I just went outside and took some better pictures for you to use for
your website.
just goto: http://mopa.net/fotos/car

What is the name of the rubber cap that goes on the bleeder screw? or
should I just stop at the store and ask for a rubber cap for my
bleeder screw? I guess that would be best.

Oh, BTW, what screw is the bleeder screw anyways? is that something
that its very important that there is a cap on it?

To get the entire driveshaft replaced would cost a lot of money I would
think huh? unfortunately, I lost my job, and only have about $400 in
savings that I could use to fix the car, and yeah it has to be fixed. I
don't want to worry about it braking down, because there is no way I
can go without a car. Everything here is very far, as I live in
Atlanta. I drive about 2000 miles a month.

The CV joint doesn't seem to be damaged, thank God, but that rubber is
completely cracked off. Is there anyway I could get a new piece of
rubber for it? and if so what would I even ask for? I just don't want
water or dirt to get in their like you said.

Thanks so much!
John

Mike,

They have a place here in Georgia, and you pay $125 dollars, and you
get a unlimited amount of alignments for 3 years, and they recommend
getting one every 9 months or so. So your car is always driving
straight, unlike most people's car anyway.

I guess it wouldn't hurt to drop it off and have them realignment the
car again, after all I paid for it for the next three years, it
couldn't hurt.

Oh Tegger? its the rubber on the CV is called a boot? so, but I guess
there is no way I could slide that baby on there.

"mopa" <buttakid@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1120940852.274800.100280@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks TeGGeR, and Michael.
>
> Well, what is the name of all the part that I would need to get this
> completely fixed, and the prices of those parts. I will then have to
> get someone to install them for me, as this seems to be work, and I
> don't frankly want to screw anything up. We are talking about driving
> here, not just a easy change a bulb fix. :O(
The part that is torn is the CV joint boot, and the part underneath is the
CV (for Constant Velocity) joint. It works like a u-joint (universal joint)
in that it flexes in two dimensions while transmitting torque, but the magic
part is that a u-joint doesn't transmit the movement linearly when it is
flexed - it whips between the 90 degree points. A CV joint moves smoothly
all the way.

>
> Tegger, oh your more then free to use my pictures, as I know you do
> this kind of stuff all the time to help people out.
>
> I just went outside and took some better pictures for you to use for
> your website.
> just goto: http://mopa.net/fotos/car
>
> What is the name of the rubber cap that goes on the bleeder screw? or
> should I just stop at the store and ask for a rubber cap for my
> bleeder screw? I guess that would be best.
>
> Oh, BTW, what screw is the bleeder screw anyways? is that something
> that its very important that there is a cap on it?
>
The bleeder screw is used to bleed the brakes. The cap keeps dirt out when
the brakes are bled.

> To get the entire driveshaft replaced would cost a lot of money I would
> think huh? unfortunately, I lost my job, and only have about $400 in
> savings that I could use to fix the car, and yeah it has to be fixed. I
> don't want to worry about it braking down, because there is no way I
> can go without a car. Everything here is very far, as I live in
> Atlanta. I drive about 2000 miles a month.
>
> The CV joint doesn't seem to be damaged, thank God, but that rubber is
> completely cracked off. Is there anyway I could get a new piece of
> rubber for it? and if so what would I even ask for? I just don't want
> water or dirt to get in their like you said.
>
> Thanks so much!
> John
>

The degree of damage to the CV joint can be guaged by making a slow turn
with the steering all the way left or right and your window down. A damaged
joint makes a distinctive rucka-rucka sound, with worse degrees of damage
showing up as pops and sharp clacks.

My recommendation is always to replace the assembly - called an axle shaft
or drive axle - because they are the cheapest way to do a *quality* repair.
I also recommend doing both sides because when one fails, the other is not
far behind. But since money is really tight now, you can do the quick and
dirty (especially dirty!) semi-repair. At auto parts stores you can buy
"split boot" kits to replace the original boot. I haven't bought one but
would expect to pay between $20 and $40 US. It will have a two piece boot
(like the original, but split lengthwise), a big packet of grease and
instructions. Essentially, you cut away the old boot, clean out as much of
the old grease as humanly possible, smoosh as much of the new grease into
the works as possible and put the rest in the boot, then clamp the new boot
clamshell fashion over the CV joint. Did I mention this is all done while
you are under the car? You're gonna love it. But it will stop the
destruction of the CV joint from going much farther and not hit the savings
too badly. If the CV joint hasn't reached the pop/clack stage you can go a
long time with a split boot repair, and with luck and gentle driving a even
a fairly bad joint should hold you until you get some money coming in.

Mike

Wow, Mike,

Your the greatest man. Thanks.

Yes, the CV Joint isn't making any weird noices or anything that sounds
like damage. Honestly, I just think what it is that the car is 12 years
old and the rubber just slowly started to rot away and it just cracked
apart. The grease seems fine, and I don't have any problems with
turning the steering wheel while driving fast or slow.

It's just the guy at the shop said it needed to be fixed, and I know
how these small shops are, they just want more money. I honestly don't
feel like fixing anything unless its a must.

I bought this 1993 Honda Civic Lx last year (June 2004) for $1,900 from
a women in Charleston, South Carolina, and she gave me all the paper
work. So far this is all what has been done to the car.

March 1998 (new battery)
April 1999 (New Wheel Bearings)
October 1999 (CK Muffler & Gasket)
October 1999 (Pipe & Spout) Whatever that is

In June 2004 - (Rack & Pinon Replaced, P/S Flush, Dist Rotor, Cap, Plug
Wires, Replaced bearings in both rear wheels, repaired two heat shield,
replaced both rear hub brdgs, replaced A/C Tenisor, Replaced all belts,
replaced both C/V Shafts Align, Replaced Fear/Front Shoes and turn
rotors) Total spent in repairs from 10/2002 to 06/2004 was $4,689.81

After I bought the car at the end of June, it must because she spent so
much money and didn't want to spend anymore. Her paperwork stated it
needed a timing belt changed, and that is when she sold it.

July 2004 the Timing belt was placed, all of the Gaskets on the entire
engine were replaced, new tires, belts, and ever since I only been
using Castrol Synthetic Oil for my car, because I have always heard its
the best, and even though its expensive, its well worth it.

Three months ago I replaced the radiator, and now two weeks ago I
installed a A/C compressor. I am hoping that since it said the C/V
Shafts were replaced, that my C/V's should last a while. Now, what is
the different between SHAFTS? and Joints?

(shafts must be a stick or something, hehe)

Thanks

Oh yeah,and mike, getting dirty is no thing to me. I am always under my
car doing something. I just replaced the headlights, and the A/C so I
been under there quite a bit. Now this week I gotta change my oil.

3 weeks ago I changed the fuel filter. Anyways, how often should that
be changed?

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in
news:ctqdnU-QJeP20U3fRVn-vQ@sedona.net:


> If the CV joint hasn't reached the
> pop/clack stage you can go a long time with a split boot repair, and
> with luck and gentle driving a even a fairly bad joint should hold you
> until you get some money coming in.


Actually, you can drive it until the vibration starts to loosen your
fillings.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/