Honda Car Forum

does anyone have a schematic of replacing the a/c pulley (tensioner)?

Also it the alternator belt must be removed (replaced) while I replace
the failed pulley?

I attempted to loosen the tension on the alternator that did not work.
Also I rtried removing several bolts as per my Haynes manual and that
didn't do the trick.

The Haynes manual shows two bolts holding the alternator pulley and my
alternator pulley has only one?

SO I am a bit stupmed on this portion of the fix.

Also, the a/c pulley tensioner when I used the old washers and spacers
it seems to be fitting strange? A schematic would be great. (I
purchased OE stuff from AutoPartsWarehouse.com)

Oh and a special thanks to Tegger for all of your excellent posts, and
moderating of the group !!!

Darren

Lexus Lover wrote:
> does anyone have a schematic of replacing the a/c pulley (tensioner)?
>
> Also it the alternator belt must be removed (replaced) while I replace
> the failed pulley?
>
> I attempted to loosen the tension on the alternator that did not work.
> Also I rtried removing several bolts as per my Haynes manual and that
> didn't do the trick.
>
> The Haynes manual shows two bolts holding the alternator pulley and my
> alternator pulley has only one?
>
> SO I am a bit stupmed on this portion of the fix.
>
> Also, the a/c pulley tensioner when I used the old washers and spacers
> it seems to be fitting strange? A schematic would be great. (I
> purchased OE stuff from AutoPartsWarehouse.com)
>
> Oh and a special thanks to Tegger for all of your excellent posts, and
> moderating of the group !!!
>
> Darren
--------------------------------

This may be NO HELP, but I've replaced a couple idlers on CR-V's per
this TSB from Tegger's site:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/crv/x00-003e.pdf

Maybe yours is similar?

'Curly'

Thanks Curly. That is a bit helpful !!!

On Wed, 23 May 2007 15:19:03 GMT, Lexus Lover <dtewing@gmail.com>
wrote:

>does anyone have a schematic of replacing the a/c pulley (tensioner)?
>
>Also it the alternator belt must be removed (replaced) while I replace
>the failed pulley?
>
>I attempted to loosen the tension on the alternator that did not work.
>Also I rtried removing several bolts as per my Haynes manual and that
>didn't do the trick.
>
>The Haynes manual shows two bolts holding the alternator pulley and my
>alternator pulley has only one?
>
>SO I am a bit stupmed on this portion of the fix.
>
>Also, the a/c pulley tensioner when I used the old washers and spacers
>it seems to be fitting strange? A schematic would be great. (I
>purchased OE stuff from AutoPartsWarehouse.com)
>
>Oh and a special thanks to Tegger for all of your excellent posts, and
>moderating of the group !!!
>
>Darren

Lexus Lover <dtewing@gmail.com> wrote in
news:brm853tucjbl9089o0e7o2tjs4odf7r182@4ax.com:

> does anyone have a schematic of replacing the a/c pulley (tensioner)?
>
> Also it the alternator belt must be removed (replaced) while I replace
> the failed pulley?
>
> I attempted to loosen the tension on the alternator that did not work.
> Also I rtried removing several bolts as per my Haynes manual and that
> didn't do the trick.



To move the alternator you need to loosen both the upper and lower
bolts. The upper one goes through the curved bracket with the long
slotted hole.

Chances are the lower bolt will only be accessible from undeneath.

You may need a pry bar to force the alternator towards the block.


>
> The Haynes manual shows two bolts holding the alternator pulley and my
> alternator pulley has only one?



Don't try to remove the alternator pulley.


>
> SO I am a bit stupmed on this portion of the fix.
>
> Also, the a/c pulley tensioner when I used the old washers and spacers
> it seems to be fitting strange? A schematic would be great. (I
> purchased OE stuff from AutoPartsWarehouse.com)


Was it actually OEM or was it "OEM-style"?


>
> Oh and a special thanks to Tegger for all of your excellent posts, and
> moderating of the group !!!
>


I'm not a moderator. This group is unmoderated.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger,

Do you have a schematic of either procerudre???

Thanks.

Ps. I know you are not a moderator, and that this group os
unmoderated, but you do a great job of assisting others...



On Thu, 24 May 2007 17:01:18 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m>
wrote:

>Lexus Lover <dtewing@gmail.com> wrote in
>news:brm853tucjbl9089o0e7o2tjs4odf7r182@4ax.com :
>
>> does anyone have a schematic of replacing the a/c pulley (tensioner)?
>>
>> Also it the alternator belt must be removed (replaced) while I replace
>> the failed pulley?
>>
>> I attempted to loosen the tension on the alternator that did not work.
>> Also I rtried removing several bolts as per my Haynes manual and that
>> didn't do the trick.
>
>
>
>To move the alternator you need to loosen both the upper and lower
>bolts. The upper one goes through the curved bracket with the long
>slotted hole.
>
>Chances are the lower bolt will only be accessible from undeneath.
>
>You may need a pry bar to force the alternator towards the block.
>
>
>>
>> The Haynes manual shows two bolts holding the alternator pulley and my
>> alternator pulley has only one?
>
>
>
>Don't try to remove the alternator pulley.
>
>
>>
>> SO I am a bit stupmed on this portion of the fix.
>>
>> Also, the a/c pulley tensioner when I used the old washers and spacers
>> it seems to be fitting strange? A schematic would be great. (I
>> purchased OE stuff from AutoPartsWarehouse.com)
>
>
>Was it actually OEM or was it "OEM-style"?
>
>
>>
>> Oh and a special thanks to Tegger for all of your excellent posts, and
>> moderating of the group !!!
>>
>
>
>I'm not a moderator. This group is unmoderated.

Lexus Lover <dtewing@gmail.com> wrote in
news:lphb53tp226vmkv3ool7gf9afbrmdahq54@4ax.com:

>
>
> Tegger,
>
> Do you have a schematic of either procerudre???



This is as close as I can get:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/..._scans/legend/
See the two files with "belt" in their names.

You have a different style of alternator adjustment than I had thought.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Thanks Tegger & Curly for your help.

I successfully replaced the pulley and put new belts on --

Darren
Ps. I am swapping-out the CV joints next - any schematics for that ???

On Thu, 24 May 2007 17:35:59 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m>
wrote:

>Lexus Lover <dtewing@gmail.com> wrote in
>news:lphb53tp226vmkv3ool7gf9afbrmdahq54@4ax.com :
>
>>
>>
>> Tegger,
>>
>> Do you have a schematic of either procerudre???
>
>
>
>This is as close as I can get:
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/..._scans/legend/
>See the two files with "belt" in their names.
>
>You have a different style of alternator adjustment than I had thought.

Lexus Lover <dtewing@gmail.com> wrote in
news:9c1u53tgbifuecq2ofae9qicvuegp46abb@4ax.com:

> Thanks Tegger & Curly for your help.
>
> I successfully replaced the pulley and put new belts on --


Excellent!


>
> Darren
> Ps. I am swapping-out the CV joints next - any schematics for that ???



That's about as simple as it gets, so no schematics needed.

You need to drain the tranny if you're removing the shaft that goes
directly into the tranny (passenger side only if you've got a center
shaft).

Before you buzz the damper fork bolts loose, measure the diameter of the
inner joints. They may be small enough to withdraw from the damper fork
without unbolting the lower control arm.

Also make sure you gave a GOOD balljoint tool. You'll NEED it.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html

You'll also need a DeWalt electric impact wrench to get the axle nut
loose, and you really should have a new axle nut to replace the old
staked one.
The DeWalt can be rented for about $25 per day from an industrial supply
place.

When you install the new driveshafts, put a bit of oil on the part of
the joint that meets the oil seal in the tranny, and make certain you
don't fold or tear the seal in the tranny.

The inner joints can be accidentally pulled apart, so make sure you
don't allow that to happen.

Oh, and one final thing: If the inner joint boots are buckled slightly
and not smoothly corrugated, this buckling will cause very quick failure
of the boots. Release the outer band and let some air inside to relieve
the vacuum that's causing the buckling. You'll need a new pair of bands
and a band-tightening tool.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Thanks for the info. Tegger !!!

Darren

On Fri, 1 Jun 2007 02:18:34 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m>
wrote:

>That's about as simple as it gets, so no schematics needed.
>
>You need to drain the tranny if you're removing the shaft that goes
>directly into the tranny (passenger side only if you've got a center
>shaft).
>
>Before you buzz the damper fork bolts loose, measure the diameter of the
>inner joints. They may be small enough to withdraw from the damper fork
>without unbolting the lower control arm.
>
>Also make sure you gave a GOOD balljoint tool. You'll NEED it.
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html
>
>You'll also need a DeWalt electric impact wrench to get the axle nut
>loose, and you really should have a new axle nut to replace the old
>staked one.
>The DeWalt can be rented for about $25 per day from an industrial supply
>place.
>
>When you install the new driveshafts, put a bit of oil on the part of
>the joint that meets the oil seal in the tranny, and make certain you
>don't fold or tear the seal in the tranny.
>
>The inner joints can be accidentally pulled apart, so make sure you
>don't allow that to happen.
>
>Oh, and one final thing: If the inner joint boots are buckled slightly
>and not smoothly corrugated, this buckling will cause very quick failure
>of the boots. Release the outer band and let some air inside to relieve
>the vacuum that's causing the buckling. You'll need a new pair of bands
>and a band-tightening tool.
>
>--
>Tegger