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Old 11 Oct 2005, 09:56 am
Art M
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Default Replacing the Master Cylinder

I finally got a remanufactured MC with a lifetime warranty (how long is
lifetime on a 91 teg) for ~$46 from Autozone to fix the problem described on
Tegger's site:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html

A lot of good information there but I just thought I'd add or confirm a few
points.

Buy the flare nut wrench set (a cheap set cost me $9). You can always return
it if you don't use it, but you'll probably need it. A stuck nut will
usually break free suddenly. If you feel it start to slowly turn you're
probably stripping it. I had to file down a rounded corner before I could
fit the flare nut wrench on the break line nut and then it came off easily.
The set will come in handy anyplace where you can't fit a ratchet.

Bench bleeding. I don't have a bench or a vice. I just sat down on the porch
and placed the break fluid bottle cap between the brick wall and the MC rod
(top of the cap against the wall). I had filled the reservoir about half way
so that the plastic tubes were submerged but not so high that I would spill
any fluid. The edge of the cap stopped the rod/MC movement at about an inch
as specified in the bench bleeding instructions. I released it very slowly
each time so that the air bubbles in the bleeder lines going back into the
reservoir would have enough time to float up rather than reenter the MC.

I didn't have anyone to help so I couldn't bleed the lines after installing
the MC. The instructions said to press and hold the break pedal down before
the final tightening of the lines to the MC to expel the air at the
connection. Doing this might mean you won't have to bleed the lines at the
wheels. I didn't do either and they still work great. I'll bleed them soon
though because the old fluid needs to be replaced.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11 Oct 2005, 04:46 pm
Mauricio Tavares
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Default Re: Replacing the Master Cylinder

Art M wrote:
> I finally got a remanufactured MC with a lifetime warranty (how long is
> lifetime on a 91 teg) for ~$46 from Autozone to fix the problem described on
> Tegger's site:
>
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html
>
> A lot of good information there but I just thought I'd add or confirm a few
> points.
>
> Buy the flare nut wrench set (a cheap set cost me $9). You can always return
> it if you don't use it, but you'll probably need it. A stuck nut will
> usually break free suddenly. If you feel it start to slowly turn you're
> probably stripping it. I had to file down a rounded corner before I could
> fit the flare nut wrench on the break line nut and then it came off easily.
> The set will come in handy anyplace where you can't fit a ratchet.
>

While I agree that flare nut wrench set is important, I am not using a
cheap set again. I bought a $9 set at the parts store and found out it
would open its mouth around a nut if it was too tight. As a result,
nuts were getting rounded off. I ended up buying a Craftsman set
(around $20) and left the old set, all lined up nicely, over a car in
the junkyard. Think of it as passing the curse around

> Bench bleeding. I don't have a bench or a vice. I just sat down on the porch
> and placed the break fluid bottle cap between the brick wall and the MC rod
> (top of the cap against the wall). I had filled the reservoir about half way
> so that the plastic tubes were submerged but not so high that I would spill
> any fluid. The edge of the cap stopped the rod/MC movement at about an inch
> as specified in the bench bleeding instructions. I released it very slowly
> each time so that the air bubbles in the bleeder lines going back into the
> reservoir would have enough time to float up rather than reenter the MC.
>
> I didn't have anyone to help so I couldn't bleed the lines after installing
> the MC. The instructions said to press and hold the break pedal down before
> the final tightening of the lines to the MC to expel the air at the
> connection. Doing this might mean you won't have to bleed the lines at the
> wheels. I didn't do either and they still work great. I'll bleed them soon
> though because the old fluid needs to be replaced.
>
>



--
Mauricio raub-kudria-com
(if you need to email me, use this address =)
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11 Oct 2005, 05:26 pm
Michael Pardee
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Replacing the Master Cylinder

"Mauricio Tavares" <uce@ftc.gov> wrote in message
news:dihbsi$e84c$1@usenet.osg.ufl.edu...
> Art M wrote:
>> I finally got a remanufactured MC with a lifetime warranty (how long is
>> lifetime on a 91 teg) for ~$46 from Autozone to fix the problem described
>> on Tegger's site:
>>
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html
>>
>> A lot of good information there but I just thought I'd add or confirm a
>> few points.
>>
>> Buy the flare nut wrench set (a cheap set cost me $9). You can always
>> return it if you don't use it, but you'll probably need it. A stuck nut
>> will usually break free suddenly. If you feel it start to slowly turn
>> you're probably stripping it. I had to file down a rounded corner before
>> I could fit the flare nut wrench on the break line nut and then it came
>> off easily. The set will come in handy anyplace where you can't fit a
>> ratchet.
>>

> While I agree that flare nut wrench set is important, I am not using a
> cheap set again. I bought a $9 set at the parts store and found out it
> would open its mouth around a nut if it was too tight. As a result,
> nuts were getting rounded off. I ended up buying a Craftsman set
> (around $20) and left the old set, all lined up nicely, over a car in
> the junkyard. Think of it as passing the curse around
>

That was my experience, too, and the wrench wasn't all *that* cheap. I
actually did better with an adjustable wrench - one that naturally met at
the tip instead of meeting flat along the jaws.

Mike


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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11 Oct 2005, 07:06 pm
TeGGeR®
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Replacing the Master Cylinder

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in
news:XeWdnVyhDKWWodHeRVn-ug@sedona.net:

> "Mauricio Tavares" <uce@ftc.gov> wrote in message
> news:dihbsi$e84c$1@usenet.osg.ufl.edu...
>>
>> While I agree that flare nut wrench set is important, I am not using
>> a cheap set again. I bought a $9 set at the parts store and found
>> out it would open its mouth around a nut if it was too tight. As a
>> result, nuts were getting rounded off. I ended up buying a Craftsman
>> set (around $20) and left the old set, all lined up nicely, over a
>> car in the junkyard. Think of it as passing the curse around
>>

> That was my experience, too, and the wrench wasn't all *that* cheap. I
> actually did better with an adjustable wrench - one that naturally met
> at the tip instead of meeting flat along the jaws.
>




You don't need a "set". A single 10mm will do. That's all I've got.

This caused a bit of a problem one time I replaced a holed line on a
neighbor's Saturn. It was either 8mm or 12mm (I forget). Since I was
replacing the line anyway, I just nipped through it with a set of side
cutters so I could get a box-end on it. Problem solved.

And the Web site in question does mention a flare wrench (complete with
photo), saying it's "worth its weight in brake fluid". I think we all agree
on that now, don't we?


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11 Oct 2005, 07:11 pm
TeGGeR®
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Replacing the Master Cylinder

"Art M" <Xarthurruhtra@netscape.netX> wrote in
news:fpQ2f.12609$U%5.6304@lakeread05:



<snip>

Glad the site helped.

>
> Bench bleeding. I don't have a bench or a vice. I just sat down on the
> porch and placed the break fluid bottle cap between the brick wall and
> the MC rod (top of the cap against the wall).




That's a cute tip. I'll add that to the site.

Thanks.


>
> I didn't have anyone to help so I couldn't bleed the lines after
> installing the MC. The instructions said to press and hold the break
> pedal down before the final tightening of the lines to the MC to expel
> the air at the connection. Doing this might mean you won't have to
> bleed the lines at the wheels. I didn't do either and they still work
> great. I'll bleed them soon though because the old fluid needs to be
> replaced.
>
>



If you've bench-bled the MC, I found it's not really necessary to bleed
after unless you've had something go wrong or have a spongy pedal after
that is /not/ due to excessive pushrod clearance.

A combination of full lines and leaky MC ports mean air is automatically
evacuated from the joins as you assemble them.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
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