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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 14 Apr 2005, 07:47 pm
p3dro
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Default an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem

Hey guys I’ve got a 1990 Integra GS, with 140Ks, and i love this car,
but I’m having2 problems:

I start my car to go somewhere, i park, it wight or might not start,
everything lights up, i wait sometime 5 minutes, sometime 2 hrs, i’ll
put my key in the ognition and voila!, like there was never a problem.
But when I’ve been in a rush, if i get a jump start, it’ll start right
away. Keep in mind that when i won’t start, everything lights up fine,
I know i’ve got battery (or @ least i think so); and when i turn the
key, nothing, and i mean nothing happens, not a single noise, is like
i don’t have anything under the hood.


2nd Problem: Does anyone know where i can get all my weather strips
replaced, i have so many leaks my carpet is starting to look funky,
and I’ve discovered MOLD under the passenger seat. I’ve got a major
leak behind my dasboard on the passenger side, someone told me could
be the A/C vents, is this true?

I’m new here, So thanks in advance.

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 15 Apr 2005, 07:48 am
remco
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem

> I start my car to go somewhere, i park, it wight or might not start,
> everything lights up, i wait sometime 5 minutes, sometime 2 hrs, i'll
> put my key in the ognition and voila!, like there was never a problem.
> But when I've been in a rush, if i get a jump start, it'll start right
> away. Keep in mind that when i won't start, everything lights up fine,
> I know i've got battery (or @ least i think so); and when i turn the
> key, nothing, and i mean nothing happens, not a single noise, is like
> i don't have anything under the hood.


Do you hear a click from the viscinity of the starter? If so, your starter
might be bad.
If not, do you have any kind of alarm installed that has the ability to
disable the car?
Are you proficient with a multimeter so we could talk you through
troubleshooting?

Remco



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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 15 Apr 2005, 06:53 pm
p3dro
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Default Re: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem

"whybcuzremove" wrote:
> > I start my car to go somewhere, i park, it wight or might

> not start,
> > everything lights up, i wait sometime 5 minutes, sometime 2

> hrs, i'll
> > put my key in the ognition and voila!, like there was never

> a problem.
> > But when I've been in a rush, if i get a jump start, it'll

> start right
> > away. Keep in mind that when i won't start, everything

> lights up fine,
> > I know i've got battery (or @ least i think so); and when i

> turn the
> > key, nothing, and i mean nothing happens, not a single

> noise, is like
> > i don't have anything under the hood.

>
> Do you hear a click from the viscinity of the starter? If so,
> your starter
> might be bad.
> If not, do you have any kind of alarm installed that has the
> ability to
> disable the car?
> Are you proficient with a multimeter so we could talk you
> through
> troubleshooting?
>
> Remco


nope no noises at all, like i said, is like i didn’t even have an
engine, is the weirdest thing. And no I’m not familiar with that
equipment, but my brother might be, he’s always messing around with
his Civic, he’s no expert though, so he doesn’t know what the problem
is.

But if you guide me on what to do, I’ll get it done, and we can
troubleshoot it that way, hopefuly.

Thanks again

Oh!, and no, no alarms or kill switches.

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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 16 Apr 2005, 04:41 pm
MZ
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem

Sounds like th einfamous Main Relay problem of the Honda Accord - maybe the
Integra has this too.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/start...html#mainrelay
MZ

"p3dro" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
news:1_527252_8e93efce8962e1677f84fa3035494eaa@aut oforumz.com...
> Hey guys I've got a 1990 Integra GS, with 140Ks, and i love this car,
> but I'm having2 problems:
>
> I start my car to go somewhere, i park, it wight or might not start,
> everything lights up, i wait sometime 5 minutes, sometime 2 hrs, i'll
> put my key in the ognition and voila!, like there was never a problem.
> But when I've been in a rush, if i get a jump start, it'll start right
> away. Keep in mind that when i won't start, everything lights up fine,
> I know i've got battery (or @ least i think so); and when i turn the
> key, nothing, and i mean nothing happens, not a single noise, is like
> i don't have anything under the hood.
>
>
> 2nd Problem: Does anyone know where i can get all my weather strips
> replaced, i have so many leaks my carpet is starting to look funky,
> and I've discovered MOLD under the passenger seat. I've got a major
> leak behind my dasboard on the passenger side, someone told me could
> be the A/C vents, is this true?
>
> I'm new here, So thanks in advance.
>
> --
> Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
> Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
> Topic URL:
> http://www.autoforumz.com/Acura-elec...ict112217.html
> Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse:
> http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=527252



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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 16 Apr 2005, 05:43 pm
B.Creech
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem

The wet passenger side is most likely this. I had the same problem,
fixed it myself.

http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/interior/15.html

MZ wrote:

>Sounds like th einfamous Main Relay problem of the Honda Accord - maybe the
>Integra has this too.
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/start...html#mainrelay
>MZ
>
>"p3dro" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
>news:1_527252_8e93efce8962e1677f84fa3035494eaa@au toforumz.com...
>
>
>>Hey guys I've got a 1990 Integra GS, with 140Ks, and i love this car,
>>but I'm having2 problems:
>>
>>I start my car to go somewhere, i park, it wight or might not start,
>>everything lights up, i wait sometime 5 minutes, sometime 2 hrs, i'll
>>put my key in the ognition and voila!, like there was never a problem.
>>But when I've been in a rush, if i get a jump start, it'll start right
>>away. Keep in mind that when i won't start, everything lights up fine,
>>I know i've got battery (or @ least i think so); and when i turn the
>>key, nothing, and i mean nothing happens, not a single noise, is like
>>i don't have anything under the hood.
>>
>>
>>2nd Problem: Does anyone know where i can get all my weather strips
>>replaced, i have so many leaks my carpet is starting to look funky,
>>and I've discovered MOLD under the passenger seat. I've got a major
>>leak behind my dasboard on the passenger side, someone told me could
>>be the A/C vents, is this true?
>>
>>I'm new here, So thanks in advance.
>>
>>--
>>Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
>>Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
>>Topic URL:
>>http://www.autoforumz.com/Acura-elec...ict112217.html
>>Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse:
>>http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=527252
>>
>>

>
>
>
>

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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 16 Apr 2005, 07:12 pm
remco
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem

Just a safety warning first: be sure to disconnect your battery wires first
before you disconnect and clean anything!! Since you are new at this, it
might be a good idea to wear safety glasses in case you accidentally short
something: The voltage being only 12 to 14V, it will not shock you, but will
cause sparks to fly that could throw bit of metal in your eyes.

I am assuming you don't have a "vehicle disable" alarm system. I am also
assuming your brother knows how to check for voltage across described
points.

Try starting the car by putting it in neutral if it is an automatic car. If
it starts, the switch inside the shifter is bad.

Make sure that all your fuses and fuseable links are ok. I don't have the
specific schematic to your year, but one fuse is usually labled "IG", "IGN"
or something similar -- make sure that one is indeed ok.

Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals. It should read 12 to14 volts.
Try and start the car - the voltage may drop, but it should drop much lower
than about 10V or so. If the voltage drops more than that, try starting the
car with booster cables. If it starts, your battery can't deliver the
current to start your car - replace it and see if that fixed it.

Get a piece of wood (a short length of 2x4) and a hammer. Put one end of the
2x4 on the starter, try and start the car and whack the other end of the 2x4
with your hammer. No need to break the starter, so dont hit is hard enough
so the case bends. You just want to mechanically shock it while you start
it. If it starts, chances are that your starter is bad. Even so, check
connections to the starter, etc. Most likely you will need a new starter.

Again, being very careful not to short anything, with a multimeter set to
measure at least 12VDC, measure across the fattest connection (usually a
thick wire, sometimes the thickness of a pinky) of the starter and to the
the engine body. You should see 12V here at all times, regardless whether
the key is in or not.
If you don't see this voltage, the fat lead does not make contact somewhere
between the battery and the starter -- it should be a direct connection, so
clean both sides - battery and starter end - and check it again. Before you
disconnect anything, disconnect the battery (see safety warning above).

Turn the key to the start position and keep it there, while your brother
measures the following:
On the starter, measure the voltage from the other (less thick, most likely)
contact to the engine body. When the key is turned to start, you should see
12V here. If you see 12V here and the car does not start, you starter
(actually the relay on top of the starter) is bad and the starter may need
to be replaced.
Before you toss the starter, disconnect the battery connections first and
clean the connections going to the starter by loosening the nuts on top of
the connections and cleaning them with some fine sandpaper.

If you don't see 12V, there are several things that can go wrong, depending
whether your car is automatic or stick. Report back with your findings.

Hope this will point you in the right direction.
Remco






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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 16 Apr 2005, 07:15 pm
remco
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem

> Sounds like th einfamous Main Relay problem of the Honda Accord - maybe
the
> Integra has this too.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/start...html#mainrelay


The integra does have one of those, but the car will still run the starter
even with that relay bad so that's most likely not it.
Remco


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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 16 Apr 2005, 07:18 pm
remco
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem

Btw, the assumption in the procedure is that you are checking the car when
it isn't starting, right? To check it while it starts will not help you.

Since it is an intermittent problem, it might be tricky and requires some
discernment:
i.e. "if the car starts, was it what I just did, or was it due to me
jiggling a wire??"

"remco" <whybcuzREMOVE@THISyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:uRh8e.2016$ZQ1.1235@fe11.lga...
> Just a safety warning first: be sure to disconnect your battery wires

first
> before you disconnect and clean anything!! Since you are new at this, it
> might be a good idea to wear safety glasses in case you accidentally short
> something: The voltage being only 12 to 14V, it will not shock you, but

will
> cause sparks to fly that could throw bit of metal in your eyes.
>
> I am assuming you don't have a "vehicle disable" alarm system. I am also
> assuming your brother knows how to check for voltage across described
> points.
>
> Try starting the car by putting it in neutral if it is an automatic car.

If
> it starts, the switch inside the shifter is bad.
>
> Make sure that all your fuses and fuseable links are ok. I don't have the
> specific schematic to your year, but one fuse is usually labled "IG",

"IGN"
> or something similar -- make sure that one is indeed ok.
>
> Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals. It should read 12 to14

volts.
> Try and start the car - the voltage may drop, but it should drop much

lower
> than about 10V or so. If the voltage drops more than that, try starting

the
> car with booster cables. If it starts, your battery can't deliver the
> current to start your car - replace it and see if that fixed it.
>
> Get a piece of wood (a short length of 2x4) and a hammer. Put one end of

the
> 2x4 on the starter, try and start the car and whack the other end of the

2x4
> with your hammer. No need to break the starter, so dont hit is hard enough
> so the case bends. You just want to mechanically shock it while you start
> it. If it starts, chances are that your starter is bad. Even so, check
> connections to the starter, etc. Most likely you will need a new starter.
>
> Again, being very careful not to short anything, with a multimeter set to
> measure at least 12VDC, measure across the fattest connection (usually a
> thick wire, sometimes the thickness of a pinky) of the starter and to the
> the engine body. You should see 12V here at all times, regardless whether
> the key is in or not.
> If you don't see this voltage, the fat lead does not make contact

somewhere
> between the battery and the starter -- it should be a direct connection,

so
> clean both sides - battery and starter end - and check it again. Before

you
> disconnect anything, disconnect the battery (see safety warning above).
>
> Turn the key to the start position and keep it there, while your brother
> measures the following:
> On the starter, measure the voltage from the other (less thick, most

likely)
> contact to the engine body. When the key is turned to start, you should

see
> 12V here. If you see 12V here and the car does not start, you starter
> (actually the relay on top of the starter) is bad and the starter may need
> to be replaced.
> Before you toss the starter, disconnect the battery connections first and
> clean the connections going to the starter by loosening the nuts on top of
> the connections and cleaning them with some fine sandpaper.
>
> If you don't see 12V, there are several things that can go wrong,

depending
> whether your car is automatic or stick. Report back with your findings.
>
> Hope this will point you in the right direction.
> Remco
>
>
>
>
>
>



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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 16 Apr 2005, 08:34 pm
MZ
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem

Ahh, missed that. Could be the contacts on the solenoid - on my Toyota they
need to be replaced occasionally. Cheap and easy fix.
MZ

"remco" <whybcuzREMOVE@THISyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bUh8e.2021$ZQ1.1722@fe11.lga...
>> Sounds like th einfamous Main Relay problem of the Honda Accord - maybe

> the
>> Integra has this too.
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/start...html#mainrelay

>
> The integra does have one of those, but the car will still run the starter
> even with that relay bad so that's most likely not it.
> Remco
>
>



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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 17 Apr 2005, 02:53 am
p3dro
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem

"martinzed" wrote:
> Ahh, missed that. Could be the contacts on the solenoid - on
> my Toyota they
> need to be replaced occasionally. Cheap and easy fix.
> MZ
>
> "remco" <whybcuzREMOVE@THISyahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:bUh8e.2021$ZQ1.1722@fe11.lga...
> &nbsp;>> Sounds like th einfamous Main Relay problem of the
> Honda Accord - maybe
> > the

> &nbsp;>> Integra has this too.
> &nbsp;>>
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/start...html#mainrelay
> >
> > The integra does have one of those, but the car will still

> run the starter
> > even with that relay bad so that's most likely not it.
> > Remco
> >
> >


WOW! the replies are overwhelming, thank you, thank you, thank you
all, for all the responses, I just printed the whole thread out, and
I’m going to keeo some tools in my car for when it acts up, I’ll check
on these.

Again thank you sooooooooo much.

And BTW i got the response from the leak i got on the front passenger
side, but i still have a major pool with fish and all in the rear
where the spare tire goes, and even the rear seat (passenger side) is
getting wet underneath, any ideas on what it might be, and if so, what
solutions; i was going to replace the weather strips all around, but i
can’t find them, and ACURA no longer carries them, and i don’t know
what to do.

Thanks again

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