Honda Car Forum

My 92 Acura Legend is overheating but does not appear to be loosing any
coolant. The thermostat has been replaced. Once the car warms up the
temp gauge is normal for a few miles of driving. Then the temp gauge
goes from middle to almost the red line for a couple more miles. The
heat cools down somewhat at this point. Then after driving a couple
more miles at a fairly continuous speed, 30 to 45mph, it goes back to
normal. Full heat returns. Drive a few more miles and it gets hot
again. This cycle repeats over and over as I drive. Runs hot and then
cools down. The car has been tested twice for evidence of coolant
leaking into the engine but has been negative both times. It seems if
it was a leaking head gasket I would be low on coolant and there would
be evidence of it with the sniffer test. If the pump was failing it
would seem that it would fail all together. It should get hot and stay
hot. It behaves like it is experiencing an intermittent water flow
problem. I'm considering replacing pump (and timing belt while I'm at
it) but I don't want to lay out the $S600 just to find out I have a
cracked head or something. The engine light comes on after highway
driving when I decelerate and is intermittent. It does have a bad rear
o2 sensor which probably isn't helping but should not cause overheating
as far as I know. I would greatly appreciate any viable theories on
what this issue could be.

Alan

"Alan" <alansoucier@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1108178782.801659.244150@g14g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> My 92 Acura Legend is overheating but does not appear to be loosing any
> coolant. The thermostat has been replaced. Once the car warms up the
> temp gauge is normal for a few miles of driving. Then the temp gauge
> goes from middle to almost the red line for a couple more miles. The
> heat cools down somewhat at this point. Then after driving a couple
> more miles at a fairly continuous speed, 30 to 45mph, it goes back to
> normal. Full heat returns. Drive a few more miles and it gets hot
> again. This cycle repeats over and over as I drive. Runs hot and then
> cools down. The car has been tested twice for evidence of coolant
> leaking into the engine but has been negative both times. It seems if
> it was a leaking head gasket I would be low on coolant and there would
> be evidence of it with the sniffer test. If the pump was failing it
> would seem that it would fail all together. It should get hot and stay
> hot. It behaves like it is experiencing an intermittent water flow
> problem. I'm considering replacing pump (and timing belt while I'm at
> it) but I don't want to lay out the $S600 just to find out I have a
> cracked head or something. The engine light comes on after highway
> driving when I decelerate and is intermittent. It does have a bad rear
> o2 sensor which probably isn't helping but should not cause overheating
> as far as I know. I would greatly appreciate any viable theories on
> what this issue could be.
>
> Alan
>
With a new thermostat (the prime suspect) the two things that come to mind
are a bubble in the coolant system or a bad head gasket. A friend had a bad
head gasket in his late model Explorer, and it gave him the temperature
spiking symptoms - except the spiking was worst while cruising. But I agree,
it should have showed up on the sniffer if that is what is happening to you.

I used to have a Lotus Europa that had the engine in the rear and the
radiator in the front. Every time I had to drain the coolant it did a week
or two of what you describe, and suddenly it would gulp down all the coolant
in the reservoir and settle down. I know some Honda engines of that era had
a bleed fitting on the upper radiator hose housing - maybe yours does?

If you get desperate, you can also try a long shot of reverse flushing the
cooling system in case something is lodging in a passage. The description of
what brings it on isn't really consistent with that, though.

Mike

Alan;

I presume the coolant system was bled when the new thermostat was installed?

My 89 Legend did the same thing sporadically one summer. Really a nuisance
when you have to turn the A/C off and the heat on in 80 degree weather just
to try and cool the engine down. There was never any specific component
that failed on my car. I never found a cause. I'll watch for additional
info.

doug
"Alan" <alansoucier@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1108178782.801659.244150@g14g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> My 92 Acura Legend is overheating but does not appear to be loosing any
> coolant. The thermostat has been replaced. Once the car warms up the
> temp gauge is normal for a few miles of driving. Then the temp gauge
> goes from middle to almost the red line for a couple more miles. The
> heat cools down somewhat at this point. Then after driving a couple
> more miles at a fairly continuous speed, 30 to 45mph, it goes back to
> normal. Full heat returns. Drive a few more miles and it gets hot
> again. This cycle repeats over and over as I drive. Runs hot and then
> cools down. The car has been tested twice for evidence of coolant
> leaking into the engine but has been negative both times. It seems if
> it was a leaking head gasket I would be low on coolant and there would
> be evidence of it with the sniffer test. If the pump was failing it
> would seem that it would fail all together. It should get hot and stay
> hot. It behaves like it is experiencing an intermittent water flow
> problem. I'm considering replacing pump (and timing belt while I'm at
> it) but I don't want to lay out the $S600 just to find out I have a
> cracked head or something. The engine light comes on after highway
> driving when I decelerate and is intermittent. It does have a bad rear
> o2 sensor which probably isn't helping but should not cause overheating
> as far as I know. I would greatly appreciate any viable theories on
> what this issue could be.
>
> Alan
>

"Alan" <alansoucier@gmail.com> wrote in
news:1108178782.801659.244150@g14g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> My 92 Acura Legend is overheating but does not appear to be loosing any
> coolant. The thermostat has been replaced. Once the car warms up the
> temp gauge is normal for a few miles of driving. Then the temp gauge
> goes from middle to almost the red line for a couple more miles. The
> heat cools down somewhat at this point. Then after driving a couple
> more miles at a fairly continuous speed, 30 to 45mph, it goes back to
> normal. Full heat returns. Drive a few more miles and it gets hot
> again. This cycle repeats over and over as I drive. Runs hot and then
> cools down.



The new thermostst is bad. Is it aftermarket?




--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"Alan" <alansoucier@gmail.com> wrote in
news:1108178782.801659.244150@g14g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> My 92 Acura Legend is overheating but does not appear to be loosing any
> coolant. The thermostat has been replaced. Once the car warms up the
> temp gauge is normal for a few miles of driving. Then the temp gauge
> goes from middle to almost the red line for a couple more miles. The
> heat cools down somewhat at this point. Then after driving a couple
> more miles at a fairly continuous speed, 30 to 45mph, it goes back to
> normal. Full heat returns. Drive a few more miles and it gets hot
> again. This cycle repeats over and over as I drive. Runs hot and then
> cools down. The car has been tested twice for evidence of coolant
> leaking into the engine but has been negative both times. It seems if
> it was a leaking head gasket I would be low on coolant and there would
> be evidence of it with the sniffer test. If the pump was failing it
> would seem that it would fail all together. It should get hot and stay
> hot. It behaves like it is experiencing an intermittent water flow
> problem. I'm considering replacing pump (and timing belt while I'm at
> it) but I don't want to lay out the $S600 just to find out I have a
> cracked head or something. The engine light comes on after highway
> driving when I decelerate and is intermittent. It does have a bad rear
> o2 sensor which probably isn't helping but should not cause overheating
> as far as I know. I would greatly appreciate any viable theories on
> what this issue could be.
>
> Alan
>

Maybe a hose is bad,the inner spring corroded and the hose collapses and
restricts coolant flow?

I also hope you used a OEM thermostat.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

I have a 92 Integra GS that is exhibiting similar problem.

History:

Car overheated waiting in border lineup.
When back home, saw that coolant was very very low.
Filled it up but coolant kept disappearing....no signs of any leaks.
Of course, made the stupid decision to use Bar's Stop Leak....oh why did I
do that.
Car temp gauge goes cold when going downhill....only downhill !
So had mechanic replace thermostat.....they had to replace it 3 times...
Now....no heat when coming to a stop sign.
The only time I get heat is when I'm accelerating.
When I look into the radiator...I don't see the coolant moving..
It just seems to stay still and then starts to coming out of the filler if I
leave it open.

Isn't the coolant suppose to move from left to right or right to left?
This could again mean that the thermostat is stuck close?
Or water pump not working so coolant is not moving?
Why woudl the heat disappear at the stop sign but comes back when
accelerating?
I love my car....I know I'm gonna be spending big bucks to fix this one.

Any help or ideas to isolate the problem would be appreciated.

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote in message
news:Xns95FBE9F4B3D0Djyanikkuanet@129.250.170.85.. .
> "Alan" <alansoucier@gmail.com> wrote in
> news:1108178782.801659.244150@g14g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
>
>> My 92 Acura Legend is overheating but does not appear to be loosing any
>> coolant. The thermostat has been replaced. Once the car warms up the
>> temp gauge is normal for a few miles of driving. Then the temp gauge
>> goes from middle to almost the red line for a couple more miles. The
>> heat cools down somewhat at this point. Then after driving a couple
>> more miles at a fairly continuous speed, 30 to 45mph, it goes back to
>> normal. Full heat returns. Drive a few more miles and it gets hot
>> again. This cycle repeats over and over as I drive. Runs hot and then
>> cools down. The car has been tested twice for evidence of coolant
>> leaking into the engine but has been negative both times. It seems if
>> it was a leaking head gasket I would be low on coolant and there would
>> be evidence of it with the sniffer test. If the pump was failing it
>> would seem that it would fail all together. It should get hot and stay
>> hot. It behaves like it is experiencing an intermittent water flow
>> problem. I'm considering replacing pump (and timing belt while I'm at
>> it) but I don't want to lay out the $S600 just to find out I have a
>> cracked head or something. The engine light comes on after highway
>> driving when I decelerate and is intermittent. It does have a bad rear
>> o2 sensor which probably isn't helping but should not cause overheating
>> as far as I know. I would greatly appreciate any viable theories on
>> what this issue could be.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>
> Maybe a hose is bad,the inner spring corroded and the hose collapses and
> restricts coolant flow?
>
> I also hope you used a OEM thermostat.
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net

"Hello" <hello@hello.com> wrote in message
news:9uYPd.385489$8l.103833@pd7tw1no...
>I have a 92 Integra GS that is exhibiting similar problem.
<snip>
> Why woudl the heat disappear at the stop sign but comes back when
> accelerating?
The most likely reason is that there is a large bubble in the coolant. The
pump can't produce the pressure needed to pump coolant into the heater core
at idle, but once the engine revs up it gets coolant through the core.

Don't beat yourself up for using the Stop Leak - just a couple years ago I
was desperate and did the same thing. But the disappearing coolant in
combination with the loss of heat at idle makes me think the heater core may
be leaking. Usually this is accompanied by a sweet smell of antifreeze in
the cabin and persistent fogging of the windows in even slightly cool
weather. If the coolant is still disappearing you can isolate the heater by
unfastening and blocking the hoses to the heater core - easier said than
done.

The thing we don't want to think about is the possibility of a head gasket
leak. If you put your hand gently over the radiator cap opening with the
engine running and the engine cold, you should not feel steady pressure (and
definitely not rhythmic pulsing pressure) against your palm. It isn't a
definitive test - a test for exhaust gasses in the coolant is better - but
it is a good confidence test.

Mike

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in
news5OdnSVgD-KlAI3fRVn-pQ@sedona.net:

> "Hello" <hello@hello.com> wrote in message
> news:9uYPd.385489$8l.103833@pd7tw1no...
>>I have a 92 Integra GS that is exhibiting similar problem.
><snip>
>> Why woudl the heat disappear at the stop sign but comes back when
>> accelerating?
> The most likely reason is that there is a large bubble in the coolant.
> The pump can't produce the pressure needed to pump coolant into the
> heater core at idle, but once the engine revs up it gets coolant
> through the core.
>
> Don't beat yourself up for using the Stop Leak - just a couple years
> ago I was desperate and did the same thing. But the disappearing
> coolant in combination with the loss of heat at idle makes me think
> the heater core may be leaking. Usually this is accompanied by a sweet
> smell of antifreeze in the cabin and persistent fogging of the windows
> in even slightly cool weather. If the coolant is still disappearing
> you can isolate the heater by unfastening and blocking the hoses to
> the heater core - easier said than done.
>
> The thing we don't want to think about is the possibility of a head
> gasket leak. If you put your hand gently over the radiator cap opening
> with the engine running and the engine cold, you should not feel
> steady pressure (and definitely not rhythmic pulsing pressure) against
> your palm. It isn't a definitive test - a test for exhaust gasses in
> the coolant is better - but it is a good confidence test.
>
> Mike
>
>
>

the B18 motor has a bleed valve for the coolant,it's on the block,front
left side of the motor.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Thanx for the help guys !

I have tried using the bleed valve to get a steady flow...if there's a
steady flow, then you are sure that there's no air in the coolant system.
The problem is that I start the car to build up some pressure. Then I would
bleed the valve and a spurt of coolant spurts out and then nothing after
that.
I'm sitting there waiting for more coolant to start streaming out so that I
can close the bleed valve but nothing comes out. So then I have to close
the bleed valve again and wait for more pressure to build up, and try it
again....this goes on and on....So maybe the real problem is that there's no
pressure in the coolant system.
I'll try again when I have time.

Thanx again for the help.

Leslie

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote in message
news:Xns95FD7E8B65D8Cjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.83.. .
> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in
> news5OdnSVgD-KlAI3fRVn-pQ@sedona.net:
>
>> "Hello" <hello@hello.com> wrote in message
>> news:9uYPd.385489$8l.103833@pd7tw1no...
>>>I have a 92 Integra GS that is exhibiting similar problem.
>><snip>
>>> Why woudl the heat disappear at the stop sign but comes back when
>>> accelerating?
>> The most likely reason is that there is a large bubble in the coolant.
>> The pump can't produce the pressure needed to pump coolant into the
>> heater core at idle, but once the engine revs up it gets coolant
>> through the core.
>>
>> Don't beat yourself up for using the Stop Leak - just a couple years
>> ago I was desperate and did the same thing. But the disappearing
>> coolant in combination with the loss of heat at idle makes me think
>> the heater core may be leaking. Usually this is accompanied by a sweet
>> smell of antifreeze in the cabin and persistent fogging of the windows
>> in even slightly cool weather. If the coolant is still disappearing
>> you can isolate the heater by unfastening and blocking the hoses to
>> the heater core - easier said than done.
>>
>> The thing we don't want to think about is the possibility of a head
>> gasket leak. If you put your hand gently over the radiator cap opening
>> with the engine running and the engine cold, you should not feel
>> steady pressure (and definitely not rhythmic pulsing pressure) against
>> your palm. It isn't a definitive test - a test for exhaust gasses in
>> the coolant is better - but it is a good confidence test.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>
> the B18 motor has a bleed valve for the coolant,it's on the block,front
> left side of the motor.
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net

"Hello" <hello@hello.com> wrote in news:vqiQd.396253$Xk.77001@pd7tw3no:

> Thanx for the help guys !
>
> I have tried using the bleed valve to get a steady flow...if there's a
> steady flow, then you are sure that there's no air in the coolant
> system. The problem is that I start the car to build up some pressure.
> Then I would bleed the valve and a spurt of coolant spurts out and
> then nothing after that.
> I'm sitting there waiting for more coolant to start streaming out so
> that I can close the bleed valve but nothing comes out. So then I
> have to close the bleed valve again and wait for more pressure to
> build up, and try it again....this goes on and on....So maybe the real
> problem is that there's no pressure in the coolant system.
> I'll try again when I have time.
>
> Thanx again for the help.
>
> Leslie

>> the B18 motor has a bleed valve for the coolant,it's on the
>> block,front left side of the motor.
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
>
>

The proper procedure is to warm the car up to operating temp before
bleeding it.
If you then open the bleed port and only get a short stream and then
nothing,it sounds like your water pump has failed.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net