Honda Car Forum

Hi all,

I own a first gen Integra that has 130k miles on it. There seem to be
a problem with the fuel pump, which will take me $250 parts alone to
fix. However, I'm hesistant to get it fixed due to several problems.
First, the engine also needs a new water pump, as the old one is
leaking quite badly. There are also fairly loud "tap-tap" noise coming
from the engine head area. Furthurmore, The e-brake return spring on
the rear cliapers are quite weak so the brake won't loosen up after I
pull the ebrake.

Otherwise the car is fairly well maintained. all oil changes are on
schedule, fuel + air filter replaced on time; the rad, clutch, and
drive axles are all fairly new. The engine + tranny is seldomly pushed
hard.

My question is, is it worth fixing up all the problem there is on such
an old car? Given the car's age, problmes are going to be popping up
intermittently. With the ever increasing cost going into fixing the
car, I might as well buy another one.

Your opinions would be appriciated.

Mo Zhang wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I own a first gen Integra that has 130k miles on it. There seem to be
> a problem with the fuel pump, which will take me $250 parts alone to
> fix. However, I'm hesistant to get it fixed due to several problems.
> First, the engine also needs a new water pump, as the old one is
> leaking quite badly. There are also fairly loud "tap-tap" noise coming
> from the engine head area. Furthurmore, The e-brake return spring on
> the rear cliapers are quite weak so the brake won't loosen up after I
> pull the ebrake.
>
> Otherwise the car is fairly well maintained. all oil changes are on
> schedule, fuel + air filter replaced on time; the rad, clutch, and
> drive axles are all fairly new. The engine + tranny is seldomly pushed
> hard.
>
> My question is, is it worth fixing up all the problem there is on such
> an old car? Given the car's age, problmes are going to be popping up
> intermittently. With the ever increasing cost going into fixing the
> car, I might as well buy another one.
>
> Your opinions would be appriciated.
>

With a car that old it is best to get parts from a wreckers or junk yard
which are often alot cheaper and sometimes give guarantees, I have the
same car and I could get a fuel pump for $40 NZD thats about $30 US i
think. The tapping noise from the engine will be tappets that need
adjusting or possibly a broken spring? if the sound is loud then
probably the latter. the tappets are supposed to be adjusted every
10,000k on these cars i believe

"Mo Zhang" <mz62@cornell.edu> wrote in message
news:45miq09pcn6b262ai8suie2ntodvblansn@4ax.com...
> Hi all,
>
> I own a first gen Integra that has 130k miles on it. There seem to be
> a problem with the fuel pump, which will take me $250 parts alone to
> fix. However, I'm hesistant to get it fixed due to several problems.
> First, the engine also needs a new water pump, as the old one is
> leaking quite badly. There are also fairly loud "tap-tap" noise coming
> from the engine head area. Furthurmore, The e-brake return spring on
> the rear cliapers are quite weak so the brake won't loosen up after I
> pull the ebrake.
>
> Otherwise the car is fairly well maintained. all oil changes are on
> schedule, fuel + air filter replaced on time; the rad, clutch, and
> drive axles are all fairly new. The engine + tranny is seldomly pushed
> hard.
>
> My question is, is it worth fixing up all the problem there is on such
> an old car? Given the car's age, problmes are going to be popping up
> intermittently. With the ever increasing cost going into fixing the
> car, I might as well buy another one.
>
> Your opinions would be appriciated.
>
My take on the matter is: if you are asking, you aren't in love with the
car. I recommend trading it in on a new car. You aren't usually expected to
say what problems you have with the car. Normally the dealership takes a
look and decides for themselves. I think you will lose less value doing that
than you would spend on repairs - it looks like you are facing more than
$1000 for all the repairs. And dealerships view parts and labor at their
costs, not at retail costs.

Do not put off doing *something* about the water pump. It is driven by the
timing belt, which not only makes it expensive to replace, it puts you at
ever increasing risk of the timing belt failing. The damage from that would
be heartbreaking. (I'm suspecting the timing belt is overdue for replacement
anyway - it was due at 90K miles IIRC. The water pump and timing belt are
normally changed at the same time because of the large amount of common
labor between them.)

This is a good time of year to find deals on new cars. The Christmas season
lures buyers away and the salesmen still need to sell. Cut your best deal
and have no regrets.

Mike

I do love the car. The problem is that I don't have a lot of equipment
on my hand to fix the car with. For example, I'm more than willing to
replace the waterpump myself, but I don't have the tool to suspend the
engine.


On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 05:56:35 -0700, "Michael Pardee"
<michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote:

>"Mo Zhang" <mz62@cornell.edu> wrote in message
>news:45miq09pcn6b262ai8suie2ntodvblansn@4ax.com.. .
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I own a first gen Integra that has 130k miles on it. There seem to be
>> a problem with the fuel pump, which will take me $250 parts alone to
>> fix. However, I'm hesistant to get it fixed due to several problems.
>> First, the engine also needs a new water pump, as the old one is
>> leaking quite badly. There are also fairly loud "tap-tap" noise coming
>> from the engine head area. Furthurmore, The e-brake return spring on
>> the rear cliapers are quite weak so the brake won't loosen up after I
>> pull the ebrake.
>>
>> Otherwise the car is fairly well maintained. all oil changes are on
>> schedule, fuel + air filter replaced on time; the rad, clutch, and
>> drive axles are all fairly new. The engine + tranny is seldomly pushed
>> hard.
>>
>> My question is, is it worth fixing up all the problem there is on such
>> an old car? Given the car's age, problmes are going to be popping up
>> intermittently. With the ever increasing cost going into fixing the
>> car, I might as well buy another one.
>>
>> Your opinions would be appriciated.
>>
>My take on the matter is: if you are asking, you aren't in love with the
>car. I recommend trading it in on a new car. You aren't usually expected to
>say what problems you have with the car. Normally the dealership takes a
>look and decides for themselves. I think you will lose less value doing that
>than you would spend on repairs - it looks like you are facing more than
>$1000 for all the repairs. And dealerships view parts and labor at their
>costs, not at retail costs.
>
>Do not put off doing *something* about the water pump. It is driven by the
>timing belt, which not only makes it expensive to replace, it puts you at
>ever increasing risk of the timing belt failing. The damage from that would
>be heartbreaking. (I'm suspecting the timing belt is overdue for replacement
>anyway - it was due at 90K miles IIRC. The water pump and timing belt are
>normally changed at the same time because of the large amount of common
>labor between them.)
>
>This is a good time of year to find deals on new cars. The Christmas season
>lures buyers away and the salesmen still need to sell. Cut your best deal
>and have no regrets.
>
>Mike
>

Mo Zhang <mz62@cornell.edu> floridly penned in
news:vj1kq09uq32p4qrca5tqf55fppprjjk268@4ax.com:

> I do love the car. The problem is that I don't have a lot of equipment
> on my hand to fix the car with. For example, I'm more than willing to
> replace the waterpump myself, but I don't have the tool to suspend the
> engine.


That "tool" is nothing more than a floor jack placed under the oil pan,
with a rag to protect the oil pan's paint. When you undo the left-side
engine mount, the jack supports the motor.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

That's it? I was always under the impression that in order to change
the water pump, with the timing assembly, on needed to fully remove
the engine. What you are telling me is great news. Care to explaining
it a bit more in detail?


On 29 Nov 2004 02:17:38 GMT, "TeGGer®"
<teggeratistopdotcom@changetheobvious.invalid> wrote:

>Mo Zhang <mz62@cornell.edu> floridly penned in
>news:vj1kq09uq32p4qrca5tqf55fppprjjk268@4ax.com :
>
>> I do love the car. The problem is that I don't have a lot of equipment
>> on my hand to fix the car with. For example, I'm more than willing to
>> replace the waterpump myself, but I don't have the tool to suspend the
>> engine.
>
>
>That "tool" is nothing more than a floor jack placed under the oil pan,
>with a rag to protect the oil pan's paint. When you undo the left-side
>engine mount, the jack supports the motor.

Based on a '90 Integra, you only need to remove the driver side engine mount
in order to get past the housing to the timing belt/water pump area. The
engine needs to be supported with the mount off, but only from below, on the
oil pan, with a bottle jack or similar device; as the engine is still
connected to the other mounts.

After that, your next big hurdle will be getting the nut that holds the
crankshaft pulley off.

~JM

"Mo Zhang" <mz62@cornell.edu> wrote in message
news:n3pmq0pbd1m18fqkmflsflu51dhft2u4am@4ax.com...
> That's it? I was always under the impression that in order to change
> the water pump, with the timing assembly, on needed to fully remove
> the engine. What you are telling me is great news. Care to explaining
> it a bit more in detail?
>
>
> On 29 Nov 2004 02:17:38 GMT, "TeGGer®"
> <teggeratistopdotcom@changetheobvious.invalid> wrote:
>
> >Mo Zhang <mz62@cornell.edu> floridly penned in
> >news:vj1kq09uq32p4qrca5tqf55fppprjjk268@4ax.com :
> >
> >> I do love the car. The problem is that I don't have a lot of equipment
> >> on my hand to fix the car with. For example, I'm more than willing to
> >> replace the waterpump myself, but I don't have the tool to suspend the
> >> engine.
> >
> >
> >That "tool" is nothing more than a floor jack placed under the oil pan,
> >with a rag to protect the oil pan's paint. When you undo the left-side
> >engine mount, the jack supports the motor.
>

"J M" <noonehome@nothing.net> floridly penned in
newsUPqd.231$MG3.165@fe2.columbus.rr.com:

> Based on a '90 Integra, you only need to remove the driver side engine
> mount in order to get past the housing to the timing belt/water pump
> area. The engine needs to be supported with the mount off, but only
> from below, on the oil pan, with a bottle jack or similar device; as
> the engine is still connected to the other mounts.
>
> After that, your next big hurdle will be getting the nut that holds
> the crankshaft pulley off.



Quickest, safest, easiest thing to try first is an electric impact gun. You
can use your normal sockets, and it costs approximately $10 per day from a
rental place.

Buzz the bolt in both directions for a while, back and forth, and it ought
to eventually break free.

If it doesn't, then you need this:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#crankbolt

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Thanks for the tips given for the timing belt/water pump.

The second problem, concerning the car won't start when it's warm. I'm
aware that during hot weather the cause could be the main relay.
Although the problem matches the symptom, could the same problem
happen when it's barely 35F outside?

Thanks


On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 23:55:47 -0500, Mo Zhang <mz62@cornell.edu> wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>I own a first gen Integra that has 130k miles on it. There seem to be
>a problem with the fuel pump, which will take me $250 parts alone to
>fix. However, I'm hesistant to get it fixed due to several problems.
>First, the engine also needs a new water pump, as the old one is
>leaking quite badly. There are also fairly loud "tap-tap" noise coming
>from the engine head area. Furthurmore, The e-brake return spring on
>the rear cliapers are quite weak so the brake won't loosen up after I
>pull the ebrake.
>
>Otherwise the car is fairly well maintained. all oil changes are on
>schedule, fuel + air filter replaced on time; the rad, clutch, and
>drive axles are all fairly new. The engine + tranny is seldomly pushed
>hard.
>
>My question is, is it worth fixing up all the problem there is on such
>an old car? Given the car's age, problmes are going to be popping up
>intermittently. With the ever increasing cost going into fixing the
>car, I might as well buy another one.
>
>Your opinions would be appriciated.

"TeGGer®" <teggeratistopdotcom@changetheobvious.invalid> wrote in message
news:Xns95B0E8B7D68D5teggeratistop@207.14.113.17.. .
> "J M" <noonehome@nothing.net> floridly penned in
> newsUPqd.231$MG3.165@fe2.columbus.rr.com:
>
>> Based on a '90 Integra, you only need to remove the driver side engine
>> mount in order to get past the housing to the timing belt/water pump
>> area. The engine needs to be supported with the mount off, but only
>> from below, on the oil pan, with a bottle jack or similar device; as
>> the engine is still connected to the other mounts.
>>
>> After that, your next big hurdle will be getting the nut that holds
>> the crankshaft pulley off.
>
>
>
> Quickest, safest, easiest thing to try first is an electric impact gun.
> You
> can use your normal sockets, and it costs approximately $10 per day from a
> rental place.
>
************************************************** **
I don't recommend regular sockets with an impact gun. I am told impact
sockets (identifiable by being black and expensive!) are not as brittle. My
impact gun instructions warns regular sockets can explode. If you do use a
regular socket, *please* use goggles. If the socket explodes, you probably
won't suffer any lasting injury IF YOUR EYES ARE PROTECTED. (Sorry for the
shout, but the thought of metal shards hurtling toward naked eyes got to
me.)

An option is to buy a single 19mm impact socket - usually in the $5-$10
range purchased individually. Goggles are still a good idea (under $5).
************************************************** **
> Buzz the bolt in both directions for a while, back and forth, and it ought
> to eventually break free.
>
> If it doesn't, then you need this:
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#crankbolt
>
> --
> TeGGeR®
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/