Honda Car Forum

Battery, alternator, or a combination of both?

My understanding is that a powerful amplifier will draw off the battery's
reserve amperage and the alternator is there to recharge it.

I have had all kinds of problems keeping alternators in my car which is:

1991 Acura Integra(65amp rated alternator).
Alpine MRD-F752 5ch (75w(107w)x4 and 250w(330w)x1) driving 4 Polk Audio
DX6's and a JL
Audio 12".


I have been through 3 stock and 1 high output(150amp) alternators in the
last year. The regulators burn out.

I finally took the car to my regular mechanic and he thinks it has been the
battery all along. It is a NAPA"exide" type battery and he says it might
have a short in it that occurs when there is vibration during driving. He
said those are the shittiest batteries made and he has installed an AC Delco
along with another stock alternator. The vehicle's wiring checked out fine
at an Auto Electric shop.

I have unhooked my power cable to the stereo and am going to drive it for a
month or two without to see what happens.

I am totally nervous about having to go through this again. To remove the
alternator, on my car, it costs $100 labor.

Anyone have any ideas as to what is burning these regulators out?
Will that stereo just not work in my car?

On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 09:32:05 -0800, "SHRED©" <noone@nowhere.com>
wrote:

>Battery, alternator, or a combination of both?
>
>My understanding is that a powerful amplifier will draw off the battery's
>reserve amperage and the alternator is there to recharge it.
>
>I have had all kinds of problems keeping alternators in my car which is:
>
>1991 Acura Integra(65amp rated alternator).
>Alpine MRD-F752 5ch (75w(107w)x4 and 250w(330w)x1) driving 4 Polk Audio
>DX6's and a JL
>Audio 12".
>
>
>I have been through 3 stock and 1 high output(150amp) alternators in the
>last year. The regulators burn out.
>
>I finally took the car to my regular mechanic and he thinks it has been the
>battery all along. It is a NAPA"exide" type battery and he says it might
>have a short in it that occurs when there is vibration during driving. He
>said those are the shittiest batteries made and he has installed an AC Delco
>along with another stock alternator. The vehicle's wiring checked out fine
>at an Auto Electric shop.
>
>I have unhooked my power cable to the stereo and am going to drive it for a
>month or two without to see what happens.
>
>I am totally nervous about having to go through this again. To remove the
>alternator, on my car, it costs $100 labor.
>
>Anyone have any ideas as to what is burning these regulators out?
>Will that stereo just not work in my car?
>

I think you may be running a bit too much amperage off the car's
entire system. This 5-channel audio system is probably better than
most of us have at home. I am not sure if the regulator is part of the
alternator package in this model. The power draw should come from the
alternator (unless you run the audio system without the car running)
and is also going through the voltage regulator (as well as some
diodes). If you continue to blow out alternators (the 150 amp should
handle it OK) then you may want to try lower wattage amp and more
efficient speakers.

Also your idea of running the car without the audio system hooked up
is a good idea (to me) to find out if you have another electrical
issue to deal with that is not related to the audio system.

I am sure you will get some good feedback from this group.

Dino

"Dino" <bozotheclown@elvis.net> wrote in message
news:l8jl00tsfjm8vthuilc00akpvbufntvji0@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 09:32:05 -0800, "SHRED©" <noone@nowhere.com>
> wrote:
>
> >Battery, alternator, or a combination of both?> >
> >I have had all kinds of problems keeping alternators in my car which is:
> >
> >1991 Acura Integra(65amp rated alternator).
> >Alpine MRD-F752 5ch (75w(107w)x4 and 250w(330w)x1) driving 4 Polk Audio
> >DX6's and a JL
> >Audio 12".
> >
> >
> >I have been through 3 stock and 1 high output(150amp) alternators in the
> >last year. The regulators burn out.
> >
> >I finally took the car to my regular mechanic and he thinks it has been
the
> >battery all along. It is a NAPA"exide" type battery and he says it might
> >have a short in it that occurs when there is vibration during driving. He
> >said those are the shittiest batteries made and he has installed an AC
Delco
> >along with another stock alternator. The vehicle's wiring checked out
fine
> >at an Auto Electric shop.
> >
> >I have unhooked my power cable to the stereo and am going to drive it for
a
> >month or two without to see what happens.
> >
> >I am totally nervous about having to go through this again. To remove the
> >alternator, on my car, it costs $100 labor.
> >
> >Anyone have any ideas as to what is burning these regulators out?
> >Will that stereo just not work in my car?
> >
>
> I think you may be running a bit too much amperage off the car's
> entire system. This 5-channel audio system is probably better than
> most of us have at home. I am not sure if the regulator is part of the
> alternator package in this model. The power draw should come from the
> alternator (unless you run the audio system without the car running)
> and is also going through the voltage regulator (as well as some
> diodes). If you continue to blow out alternators (the 150 amp should
> handle it OK) then you may want to try lower wattage amp and more
> efficient speakers.
>
> Also your idea of running the car without the audio system hooked up
> is a good idea (to me) to find out if you have another electrical
> issue to deal with that is not related to the audio system.
>
> I am sure you will get some good feedback from this group.
>
> >
> >My understanding is that a powerful amplifier will draw off the battery's
> >reserve amperage and the alternator is there to recharge it.

> Dino

Most amps run directly from the battery. Look at the battery, are there 2
wires on the positive terminal?

Your system could be drawing too much from the battery and causing the
alternator to fry. Your amplifier should have a fuse on it. The fuse should
say how many max amps the amplifier is pulling from the battery. It sounds
like a very powerful amp so its probably pulling a lot from the battery.

I am no expert but you might get better help by
posting in rec.audio.car. It is a very active group
of car audio folks.


"SHRED©" <noone@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:nnzOb.6279$bg1.4868@fed1read05...
> Battery, alternator, or a combination of both?
>
> My understanding is that a powerful amplifier will draw off the battery's
> reserve amperage and the alternator is there to recharge it.
>
> I have had all kinds of problems keeping alternators in my car which is:
>
> 1991 Acura Integra(65amp rated alternator).
> Alpine MRD-F752 5ch (75w(107w)x4 and 250w(330w)x1) driving 4 Polk Audio
> DX6's and a JL
> Audio 12".
>
>
> I have been through 3 stock and 1 high output(150amp) alternators in the
> last year. The regulators burn out.
>
> I finally took the car to my regular mechanic and he thinks it has been
the
> battery all along. It is a NAPA"exide" type battery and he says it might
> have a short in it that occurs when there is vibration during driving. He
> said those are the shittiest batteries made and he has installed an AC
Delco
> along with another stock alternator. The vehicle's wiring checked out fine
> at an Auto Electric shop.
>
> I have unhooked my power cable to the stereo and am going to drive it for
a
> month or two without to see what happens.
>
> I am totally nervous about having to go through this again. To remove the
> alternator, on my car, it costs $100 labor.
>
> Anyone have any ideas as to what is burning these regulators out?
> Will that stereo just not work in my car?
>
>