Honda Car Forum

Hi all,

I have a 93 Integra LS that seems to have the notorious "stalling"
problem
that had been reported in this news group. As expected, it happened on
a hot day
and the tachcometer(spelling?) can suddenly drop from cruising speed
of 3500rpm
to 0 rpm any time. If I waited for a couple of minutes, the car can
start rightup and behaves as if nothing had happen at all!!!
I had originall tried the "cheap solder PCB relay" method and
later;I have installed a new main-relay, fuel filter, and a ignition
coil(big $$), and it is still doing that!!! There are no diagnostic
codes generated and every time I bring it to my mechanic, it is No
Trouble Found.
I realize that this is dead serious and am desperate for any
suggestions to trouble-shoot/fix this problem. Can I be getting an
intermittent ignition coil
unit as this all started when my ignition coil went dead and I cannot
start my
car. The car was running fine for several weeks after the ignition
coil replacement before this stalling occur. I had a one year warranty
for this unit but I just cannot reproduce the problem if the
garage-shop :-(


A big TIA................

On 9/19/03 2:14 AM, in article
63bcc694.0309182314.5906625@posting.google.com, "Jimmy Chua"
<jchua888@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I have a 93 Integra LS that seems to have the notorious "stalling"
> problem
> that had been reported in this news group. As expected, it happened on
> a hot day
> and the tachcometer(spelling?) can suddenly drop from cruising speed
> of 3500rpm
> to 0 rpm any time. If I waited for a couple of minutes, the car can
> start rightup and behaves as if nothing had happen at all!!!
> I had originall tried the "cheap solder PCB relay" method and
> later;I have installed a new main-relay, fuel filter, and a ignition
> coil(big $$), and it is still doing that!!! There are no diagnostic
> codes generated and every time I bring it to my mechanic, it is No
> Trouble Found.
> I realize that this is dead serious and am desperate for any
> suggestions to trouble-shoot/fix this problem. Can I be getting an
> intermittent ignition coil
> unit as this all started when my ignition coil went dead and I cannot
> start my
> car. The car was running fine for several weeks after the ignition
> coil replacement before this stalling occur. I had a one year warranty
> for this unit but I just cannot reproduce the problem if the
> garage-shop :-(
>
>
> A big TIA................

Your symptom sounds more like a bad ignition switch (the electrical switch
at the key cylinder). There was a minor recall on later model Hondas for
these as they were failing a lot. Its a relatively cheap part, about $35 US

I agree. It was my ignition switch on my 94 Integra.

Fixed it myself with a wire brush, about 30 mins work.



--

EJ and crew

ICQ#: 8788459

"Jimmy Chua" <jchua888@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:63bcc694.0309182314.5906625@posting.google.co m...
> Hi all,
>
> I have a 93 Integra LS that seems to have the notorious "stalling"
> problem
> that had been reported in this news group. As expected, it happened on
> a hot day
> and the tachcometer(spelling?) can suddenly drop from cruising speed
> of 3500rpm
> to 0 rpm any time. If I waited for a couple of minutes, the car can
> start rightup and behaves as if nothing had happen at all!!!
> I had originall tried the "cheap solder PCB relay" method and
> later;I have installed a new main-relay, fuel filter, and a ignition
> coil(big $$), and it is still doing that!!! There are no diagnostic
> codes generated and every time I bring it to my mechanic, it is No
> Trouble Found.
> I realize that this is dead serious and am desperate for any
> suggestions to trouble-shoot/fix this problem. Can I be getting an
> intermittent ignition coil
> unit as this all started when my ignition coil went dead and I cannot
> start my
> car. The car was running fine for several weeks after the ignition
> coil replacement before this stalling occur. I had a one year warranty
> for this unit but I just cannot reproduce the problem if the
> garage-shop :-(
>
>
> A big TIA................

"EJ" <ej@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<IsacnSt3wdhBGfKiU-KYgg@comcast.com>...
> I agree. It was my ignition switch on my 94 Integra.
>
> Fixed it myself with a wire brush, about 30 mins work.
>
>
>
> --
>
> EJ and crew
>
> ICQ#: 8788459
>
>
Hi,
That is interesting!! How would the ignition switch cause the
sudden engine cut-off though? Is it a simple DIY? I did the relay
re-soldering before, Is it something similar in terms of work scope??

TIA...

I had the same problem where the car would stall when hot.I change the
ignition switch and it fix the problem.Acura sells the wire harness for
about $60,the whole ignition assembly goes for $260,all you need is the wire
harness,use is about $20.

--
http://community.webshots.com/user/montegobay1100
Thanks Erven
98tt

On 9/23/03 1:29 AM, in article
63bcc694.0309222229.6c87a7e0@posting.google.com, "Jimmy Chua"
<jchua888@hotmail.com> wrote:

> "EJ" <ej@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:<IsacnSt3wdhBGfKiU-KYgg@comcast.com>...
>> I agree. It was my ignition switch on my 94 Integra.
>>
>> Fixed it myself with a wire brush, about 30 mins work.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> EJ and crew
>>
>> ICQ#: 8788459
>>
>>
> Hi,
> That is interesting!! How would the ignition switch cause the
> sudden engine cut-off though? Is it a simple DIY? I did the relay
> re-soldering before, Is it something similar in terms of work scope??
>
> TIA...


This is pure guess work, but it seems to fit the way it died on my Odyssey.
The spring holding the contacts together weakens and it starts arcing. The
arcing causes it to get really hot. Resistance goes up and it stops passing
current. Once it cools down, you can start the car and drive again until
the cycle repeats. As the contacts continue to disintegrate, the cut-outs
get more frequent until it will only run for a minute or so.

It is a simple DIY to replace. The switch is screwed to the back of the
lock cylinder with two small phillips screws. The cable runs straight to
the fuse box and plugs in there.

I took my switch apart.
Then, wired brush/scrapped off all pitted areas.
As stated earlier, the pitted areas prevent contact/power to
the ignition. One way to tell if it's the ignition switch, wait till
the next occurrence (engine cuts out), then try your turn signal lights.
If they don't work, but your Hazard lights work, then it's your ignition
switch.
I thought that was crazy at first, but it's true.
Can't remember the website that had the troubleshooting technique.

That was three months ago.
No reoccurrence.

Hope it helps





"E. Meyer" <e.meyer@ieee.org> wrote in message
news:BB95DD86.16C8D%e.meyer@ieee.org...
> On 9/23/03 1:29 AM, in article
> 63bcc694.0309222229.6c87a7e0@posting.google.com, "Jimmy Chua"
> <jchua888@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > "EJ" <ej@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:<IsacnSt3wdhBGfKiU-KYgg@comcast.com>...
> >> I agree. It was my ignition switch on my 94 Integra.
> >>
> >> Fixed it myself with a wire brush, about 30 mins work.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >> EJ and crew
> >>
> >> ICQ#: 8788459
> >>
> >>
> > Hi,
> > That is interesting!! How would the ignition switch cause the
> > sudden engine cut-off though? Is it a simple DIY? I did the relay
> > re-soldering before, Is it something similar in terms of work scope??
> >
> > TIA...
>
>
> This is pure guess work, but it seems to fit the way it died on my
Odyssey.
> The spring holding the contacts together weakens and it starts arcing.
The
> arcing causes it to get really hot. Resistance goes up and it stops
passing
> current. Once it cools down, you can start the car and drive again until
> the cycle repeats. As the contacts continue to disintegrate, the cut-outs
> get more frequent until it will only run for a minute or so.
>
> It is a simple DIY to replace. The switch is screwed to the back of the
> lock cylinder with two small phillips screws. The cable runs straight to
> the fuse box and plugs in there.
>

"EJ" <ej@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<zdicnWLRRpY8ee2iU-KYhw@comcast.com>...

Hi EJ,
I have put in a new electrical switch but unfortunately, did not
fix the problem:- the car still stalls on me...

Regards,
jimmy

> I took my switch apart.
> Then, wired brush/scrapped off all pitted areas.
> As stated earlier, the pitted areas prevent contact/power to
> the ignition. One way to tell if it's the ignition switch, wait till
> the next occurrence (engine cuts out), then try your turn signal lights.
> If they don't work, but your Hazard lights work, then it's your ignition
> switch.
> I thought that was crazy at first, but it's true.
> Can't remember the website that had the troubleshooting technique.
>
> That was three months ago.
> No reoccurrence.
>
> Hope it helps
>
>
>
>
>
> "E. Meyer" <e.meyer@ieee.org> wrote in message
> news:BB95DD86.16C8D%e.meyer@ieee.org...
> > On 9/23/03 1:29 AM, in article
> > 63bcc694.0309222229.6c87a7e0@posting.google.com, "Jimmy Chua"
> > <jchua888@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > "EJ" <ej@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:<IsacnSt3wdhBGfKiU-KYgg@comcast.com>...
> > >> I agree. It was my ignition switch on my 94 Integra.
> > >>
> > >> Fixed it myself with a wire brush, about 30 mins work.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >>
> > >> EJ and crew
> > >>
> > >> ICQ#: 8788459
> > >>