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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 13 Aug 2003, 10:51 pm
pcp782
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: Transmission oil "changed" Thanks E. Meyer..2000TL 3.2

Thanks for posting the info!
I have a few questions for the group however... are there any magnets to
catch metal filings in the TL/CL trannys?
Is there an internal filter that should be replaced, internal strainer
that should be cleaned or internal or internal passageways that should be
cleaned of clutch pack/band friction material and/or metal filings?
(Haven't been into a FWD tranny yet.)
I myself miss the days of RWD trannys with pans that are easy to drop,
have only 4 forward speeds (such that there are far fewer shifts during
normal highway speed changes), and had more noticeable shifts (which
required less of the simultaneous engagements of the bands for two different
gears to make the shift super smooth).

Pat


vinniemak <vinniemak@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:4_DYa.786$sb4.352@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> Thanks to all you guys for helping out ... especially E. Meyer who emailed
> me actual pictures of the top bolt and a page from the manual for the

bottom
> bolt location.
>
> Changing the transmission oil is a breeze if you get the bolts out. The
> bolt location at the bottom on the TL 3.2 is in a wierd location

underneath
> an identation behing the frame rail. The best way to find it is to look

for
> a "round" bolt with a washer on it that accepts a 3/8" square socket -

there
> is no other bolt like it on the transmission on the bottom.
>
> I gotta tell you, both the damn bolts were "way too tight". I borrowed a
> torque wrench from work ; I had the car up on ramps ; the bottom bolt took
> 114 ft-lbs of torque to open - that's WAY TOO MUCH for a bolt that needs

to
> be tightened at 38 ft-lbs. Even using the crush washer, it should be

approx
> 70 ft-lbs. 3 times the amount of torque required will break sockets,
> especially if they are Taiwanese $ 10 wrench sets - I can almost guarantee
> you. Use a Stanley - that's the safest bet !! as if you break the 3/8"
> square socket in the bolt, you're screwed, you'll never get it out !!
>
> The top bolt was slightly less and was approx 103 ft-lbs. I had to use a
> socket extension on the top bolt and with the 12" extension and the 14"

3/8"
> sq socket wrench - the entire assembly rocked like a cradle and finally
> cracked. I thought for once that I broke something other than the bolt.
> JEEZ.....I used bolt removing oil on both the upper and lower bolts, else

it
> might have taken a couple of extra ft-lbs.
>
> Having sweat through this ordeal, the rest was a breeze. I got the oil

out
> from the bottom ; it looked red and not too dirty ; although the bottom

bolt
> had a magnet which collected a fair amount of small iron filings. I

cleaned
> that with a rag and after draining it for a good 20 minutes or so, put it
> back in. I had a pretty slick funnel, I borrowed from work, which had a

ON
> / OFF valve at the bottom with a graduated marking in ounces and ML. I
> poured one bottle of Honda ATFZ1 at a time and released the valve at a
> graduated rate into the transmission. I poured 3 full bottles and approx
> 20% from the fourth to bring the level up to a 1/2 mm above the max dot on
> ATF dip stick.
>
> I cleared out everything, put the sockets and wrenches away where they
> belong (especially the torque wrench !! in the car....that needs to get to
> work with me tomorrow else my mechanic will make me go home to get it),

then
> fired up the TL ; checked for leaks - none !!
>
> The car sounded great ; I took it out for a spin and the transmission

shifts
> smooth like a baby's tush !!
>
> So far so good. I'll post tomorrow (8-8-03) after a day of being out.
> Hopefully things are good as they seem.
>
> Again, thank you guys for helping out - especially E. Meyer - you da man

!!
>
> Have a good night.
>
> Vinnie
> =========




Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 13 Aug 2003, 10:56 pm
vinniemak
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: Transmission oil "changed" Thanks E. Meyer..2000TL 3.2

Hi, Pat:

On the TL, the bolt that you take out on the bottom has a "magnet" on it,
which grabs a share of the metal filings - that's it. If there are more
metal filings than what get stuck on the small magnet (my guess at the
magnet size is : 1/2" dia x 5/8" long), then I guess it flows into the
tranny and gets crushed to smaller pieces.

There is no internal filter on the TL tranny.

Hope this helps.

I was watching this thread for a long time - no one replied to it, until you
did today !!!

By the way, the tranny oil change that I did seemed to work great. The car
runs smooth as silk !!

Have a good night.

Vinnie
===========
"pcp782" <pcp782@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vjm1gir60vi780@corp.supernews.com...
> Thanks for posting the info!
> I have a few questions for the group however... are there any magnets

to
> catch metal filings in the TL/CL trannys?
> Is there an internal filter that should be replaced, internal strainer
> that should be cleaned or internal or internal passageways that should be
> cleaned of clutch pack/band friction material and/or metal filings?
> (Haven't been into a FWD tranny yet.)
> I myself miss the days of RWD trannys with pans that are easy to drop,
> have only 4 forward speeds (such that there are far fewer shifts during
> normal highway speed changes), and had more noticeable shifts (which
> required less of the simultaneous engagements of the bands for two

different
> gears to make the shift super smooth).
>
> Pat
>
>
> vinniemak <vinniemak@netzero.net> wrote in message
> news:4_DYa.786$sb4.352@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> > Thanks to all you guys for helping out ... especially E. Meyer who

emailed
> > me actual pictures of the top bolt and a page from the manual for the

> bottom
> > bolt location.
> >
> > Changing the transmission oil is a breeze if you get the bolts out. The
> > bolt location at the bottom on the TL 3.2 is in a wierd location

> underneath
> > an identation behing the frame rail. The best way to find it is to look

> for
> > a "round" bolt with a washer on it that accepts a 3/8" square socket -

> there
> > is no other bolt like it on the transmission on the bottom.
> >
> > I gotta tell you, both the damn bolts were "way too tight". I borrowed

a
> > torque wrench from work ; I had the car up on ramps ; the bottom bolt

took
> > 114 ft-lbs of torque to open - that's WAY TOO MUCH for a bolt that needs

> to
> > be tightened at 38 ft-lbs. Even using the crush washer, it should be

> approx
> > 70 ft-lbs. 3 times the amount of torque required will break sockets,
> > especially if they are Taiwanese $ 10 wrench sets - I can almost

guarantee
> > you. Use a Stanley - that's the safest bet !! as if you break the 3/8"
> > square socket in the bolt, you're screwed, you'll never get it out !!
> >
> > The top bolt was slightly less and was approx 103 ft-lbs. I had to use

a
> > socket extension on the top bolt and with the 12" extension and the 14"

> 3/8"
> > sq socket wrench - the entire assembly rocked like a cradle and finally
> > cracked. I thought for once that I broke something other than the bolt.
> > JEEZ.....I used bolt removing oil on both the upper and lower bolts,

else
> it
> > might have taken a couple of extra ft-lbs.
> >
> > Having sweat through this ordeal, the rest was a breeze. I got the oil

> out
> > from the bottom ; it looked red and not too dirty ; although the bottom

> bolt
> > had a magnet which collected a fair amount of small iron filings. I

> cleaned
> > that with a rag and after draining it for a good 20 minutes or so, put

it
> > back in. I had a pretty slick funnel, I borrowed from work, which had a

> ON
> > / OFF valve at the bottom with a graduated marking in ounces and ML. I
> > poured one bottle of Honda ATFZ1 at a time and released the valve at a
> > graduated rate into the transmission. I poured 3 full bottles and

approx
> > 20% from the fourth to bring the level up to a 1/2 mm above the max dot

on
> > ATF dip stick.
> >
> > I cleared out everything, put the sockets and wrenches away where they
> > belong (especially the torque wrench !! in the car....that needs to get

to
> > work with me tomorrow else my mechanic will make me go home to get it),

> then
> > fired up the TL ; checked for leaks - none !!
> >
> > The car sounded great ; I took it out for a spin and the transmission

> shifts
> > smooth like a baby's tush !!
> >
> > So far so good. I'll post tomorrow (8-8-03) after a day of being out.
> > Hopefully things are good as they seem.
> >
> > Again, thank you guys for helping out - especially E. Meyer - you da man

> !!
> >
> > Have a good night.
> >
> > Vinnie
> > =========

>
>
>



Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 15 Aug 2003, 02:02 pm
Mikey
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: Transmission oil "changed" Thanks E. Meyer..2000TL 3.2

I believe there are in fact internal screens or filters not accessible in a
routine maintenance. The routine drain and refill is vital to the health of
a Honda auto tranny and should not be taken lightly. The effects don't show
until 125,000 + miles.
"vinniemak" <vinniemak@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:rLD_a.8655$u%2.5271@nwrdny02.gnilink.net...
> Hi, Pat:
>
> On the TL, the bolt that you take out on the bottom has a "magnet" on it,
> which grabs a share of the metal filings - that's it. If there are more
> metal filings than what get stuck on the small magnet (my guess at the
> magnet size is : 1/2" dia x 5/8" long), then I guess it flows into the
> tranny and gets crushed to smaller pieces.
>
> There is no internal filter on the TL tranny.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> I was watching this thread for a long time - no one replied to it, until

you
> did today !!!
>
> By the way, the tranny oil change that I did seemed to work great. The

car
> runs smooth as silk !!
>
> Have a good night.
>
> Vinnie
> ===========
> "pcp782" <pcp782@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vjm1gir60vi780@corp.supernews.com...
> > Thanks for posting the info!
> > I have a few questions for the group however... are there any

magnets
> to
> > catch metal filings in the TL/CL trannys?
> > Is there an internal filter that should be replaced, internal

strainer
> > that should be cleaned or internal or internal passageways that should

be
> > cleaned of clutch pack/band friction material and/or metal filings?
> > (Haven't been into a FWD tranny yet.)
> > I myself miss the days of RWD trannys with pans that are easy to

drop,
> > have only 4 forward speeds (such that there are far fewer shifts during
> > normal highway speed changes), and had more noticeable shifts (which
> > required less of the simultaneous engagements of the bands for two

> different
> > gears to make the shift super smooth).
> >
> > Pat
> >
> >
> > vinniemak <vinniemak@netzero.net> wrote in message
> > news:4_DYa.786$sb4.352@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> > > Thanks to all you guys for helping out ... especially E. Meyer who

> emailed
> > > me actual pictures of the top bolt and a page from the manual for the

> > bottom
> > > bolt location.
> > >
> > > Changing the transmission oil is a breeze if you get the bolts out.

The
> > > bolt location at the bottom on the TL 3.2 is in a wierd location

> > underneath
> > > an identation behing the frame rail. The best way to find it is to

look
> > for
> > > a "round" bolt with a washer on it that accepts a 3/8" square socket -

> > there
> > > is no other bolt like it on the transmission on the bottom.
> > >
> > > I gotta tell you, both the damn bolts were "way too tight". I

borrowed
> a
> > > torque wrench from work ; I had the car up on ramps ; the bottom bolt

> took
> > > 114 ft-lbs of torque to open - that's WAY TOO MUCH for a bolt that

needs
> > to
> > > be tightened at 38 ft-lbs. Even using the crush washer, it should be

> > approx
> > > 70 ft-lbs. 3 times the amount of torque required will break sockets,
> > > especially if they are Taiwanese $ 10 wrench sets - I can almost

> guarantee
> > > you. Use a Stanley - that's the safest bet !! as if you break the

3/8"
> > > square socket in the bolt, you're screwed, you'll never get it out !!
> > >
> > > The top bolt was slightly less and was approx 103 ft-lbs. I had to

use
> a
> > > socket extension on the top bolt and with the 12" extension and the

14"
> > 3/8"
> > > sq socket wrench - the entire assembly rocked like a cradle and

finally
> > > cracked. I thought for once that I broke something other than the

bolt.
> > > JEEZ.....I used bolt removing oil on both the upper and lower bolts,

> else
> > it
> > > might have taken a couple of extra ft-lbs.
> > >
> > > Having sweat through this ordeal, the rest was a breeze. I got the

oil
> > out
> > > from the bottom ; it looked red and not too dirty ; although the

bottom
> > bolt
> > > had a magnet which collected a fair amount of small iron filings. I

> > cleaned
> > > that with a rag and after draining it for a good 20 minutes or so, put

> it
> > > back in. I had a pretty slick funnel, I borrowed from work, which had

a
> > ON
> > > / OFF valve at the bottom with a graduated marking in ounces and ML.

I
> > > poured one bottle of Honda ATFZ1 at a time and released the valve at a
> > > graduated rate into the transmission. I poured 3 full bottles and

> approx
> > > 20% from the fourth to bring the level up to a 1/2 mm above the max

dot
> on
> > > ATF dip stick.
> > >
> > > I cleared out everything, put the sockets and wrenches away where they
> > > belong (especially the torque wrench !! in the car....that needs to

get
> to
> > > work with me tomorrow else my mechanic will make me go home to get

it),
> > then
> > > fired up the TL ; checked for leaks - none !!
> > >
> > > The car sounded great ; I took it out for a spin and the transmission

> > shifts
> > > smooth like a baby's tush !!
> > >
> > > So far so good. I'll post tomorrow (8-8-03) after a day of being out.
> > > Hopefully things are good as they seem.
> > >
> > > Again, thank you guys for helping out - especially E. Meyer - you da

man
> > !!
> > >
> > > Have a good night.
> > >
> > > Vinnie
> > > =========

> >
> >
> >

>
>



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