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you need a vtec head and a vtec ecu (ecm), you need to run wires to the vtec solenoid and tap the motors oil line to the vtec head. costs about $500-$700 for the head. ecu can be had for $100-$200 used. labor price depends on the mechanic.
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you want a B18C1 GSR Long block, OBD1. make sure it includes all the wiring, the ecu and whatever vtec wires you might need. should drop right in with no fuss. personally with your car i'd go with a vtec tranny on your LS block. it'll HAUL ASS. nobody ever listens to me though
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First the parts you need, The VTEC head, preferably a B16. Then a VTEC conversion kit from Golden Eagle that has the oil lines, dowel rods, and head gasket. Next you need a GSR water pump because the LS motor has a 19 tooth water pump and the GSR has a 22 tooth which allows the correct cooling for the LS/VTEC conversion. Then a GSR ECU. After this you will need the engine removed from the car and the head and block planed to ensure a proper fitment and mating surface. This is where people go wrong in doing this and say the LS/VTEC is unreliable because they try to skimp through the correct way of doing this and get a P.O.S. and it blows in a month. Also consider getting new pistons/piston rings, and rods while the motor is out and have the crank journals checked. I currently have a 99 Civic with a LS/VTEC conversion that has a Peakboost GT35R kit running 15 PSI for daily driving with 407 WHP, and at 25 PSI it puts down 619 WHP. It is being run with a AEM EMS, has full interior, power steering, A/C, and runs 93 octane pump gas. The block is from JG Engine dynamics and is capable of 45 PSI daily driven, and the head was built by Skunk2. It has dynoed at 937 HP at 40 PSI, but is very undrivable because I have NO traction past 25 PSI. It has been this way for over a year with no problems and has about 15,000 miles on it.
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