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Old 31 Dec 2007, 09:31 am
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Default k20/k24 swap or B18/b20 vtec?

My goal is for a 95 Integra daily driver that can keep up with the k20/k24's. The car will be used mainly as daily driver, some autoX, and 5-6 track days a year. If I can spend 50% less than a k20 swap and still get 90% of the performance & reliability, then I would do the b18/20 vtec. But from what I've read up to this point. To get close to k20 performance on a b series vtec, I would have to spend close to $8-$10k anyways. If that's the case ... why not just do a k20a2 with cams & header? That's what I'm finding out... I know lots of guys with lsvtec that can do faster 1/4 mile than k20's ... but their performance advantage comes mostly from weight reduction. Since I have an Integra, I'll never be able to get my car to weigh less than 2400bls and still be a daily driver. With the weight I'm carrying ... a large torque curve is more important than peak power. What would you do?oh, thanks for the input. But if it wasn't clear in the original post, I intend to do 5-6 track days a year. Each session would be over 30 min in duration. So heat management is an issue. Therefore force induction really isn't in the cards.Additional help from b16tuner & 240sex:- if I slap on a vtec head without building the bottom end, how high can I rev the engine? From what I've read, you can't rev past 6,500 rpm safely. Vtec kicks in at 5,500rpm and if you can't reliably go past 6,500rpm; then you're not going to be in vtec very long. Although its tolerable on the drag strip & daily driving ... such an engine would be very difficult to drive on the track. That's what I've read.Also, if force induction, wouldn't the heat be a killer after the first 10 minutes on the race track?If I were to do LS/Vtec; then I would have to build both top & bottom end; and also get an LSD as well as better cams, headers, throttle body, intake manifold, fuel pump, fuel rail, etc etc.Once I do all that ... it's right up there with the k20 swap ... isn't it?I have thought of the ITR swap ($5,500), but it only has 120 ft/lbs of torque & 170 whp. Even with cams ... it's tough to get 150 lbs & 200 whp. And its peaky.
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Old 31 Dec 2007, 09:46 am
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You could BUILD a LS vtec motor for less than 5k. A built LS vtec will more than handle a K20. My friend is running a LS vtec in his 95 Integra with a built head and basic mods like exhaust, intake and such, as well as a moderate tune. He has only spent a little over 3k total for all his mods. His best run was a 13.6 1/4 mile and he has yet to touch his bottom end. If you can do some of the work yourself, it really cuts down cost.
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Old 31 Dec 2007, 10:01 am
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Trade your car for some better.
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Old 31 Dec 2007, 10:16 am
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go with the k series
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Old 31 Dec 2007, 10:31 am
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Yea, the B18 or B20 is good, but then you could always use the VTEC head from a B18C or a B16. I would go with the K swap though, just because its newer, has i-VTEC and is a 6 speed. K20A2 is probably my choice, or the K24 from the accord.
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Old 31 Dec 2007, 10:46 am
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If money is not really an issue then go with the k20 swap. The k20 is very good with simple bolt ons compared to the b series. A mildly built k20 would give you good power and reliability.If you do go lsvtec yes you won't be able to rev past 6500 because remember you still have a LS bottom end. So to get it to rev higher your gonna have to build the bottom end (pistons, rods you can keep the crank those are good for 600hp) Even if you do all the stuff you still barely be making the same power as a k20 with basic bolt ons. Get a k20 with header, full exhaust, intake, cams, and kpro and you won't be disappointed.
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Old 31 Dec 2007, 11:01 am
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Yea go with the K20 swap if you have the money.
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Old 31 Dec 2007, 11:16 am
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First off I work for a tuner shop that has been in business since 1993, I have worked there since 2000. Let me start by saying a FULL K20 swap in your car installed and working correctly will be between $10,000-$12,000 IN STOCK FORM. A B18C1 from a GSR will go into your car for $3,500. Now the HP from the K20 and the B18 is about 30-40 HP difference. So you can get a B18C1, a Turbonetics turbo kit ($3,500) and have 240 HP at the front wheels and SMOKE ANY k20 naturally aspirated swapped Integra, all while saving an extra $3,000+ in the process. With the extra money you can put in forged rods, lower compression pistons, cams, a complete valvetrain and have the engine completly gone through for the same price. The built internals will allow for higher boost (maybe 12-14 PSI) as opposed to the setting of 8 PSI on stock internals and make about 330-350 HP at the wheels and STILL be at the same cost as a STOCK K20 swap. I currently have a 99 civic EX with a B16 that has been fully built, sleeved, and boosted with Turbonetics that puts down 367 HP at the wheels on 15 PSI for daily driving, and at 25 PSI it put down 550+ HP for the track. It is a FULL interior, A/C, and power steering car that is driven DAILY. It has ran a best time of 10.97@123 MPH in the 1/4 mile. I have $20,000 in the ENTIRE CAR including the $6,500 I purchased the car for in 2004. So basically I spent $13,500 for the build and I also have a full body kit, carbon hood, carbon spoiler, complete stereo system, and aftermarket wheels. The cost of my engine build was $7,500.
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Old 31 Dec 2007, 11:31 am
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Go with the K20A2 or K20Z1 swap if money isn't an issue. Don't get the K20A because you'll need 93 octane which is a pain to come across. Also the compression ratio is a bit too high for further modding and generally not all that good for the engine itself.
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