In article <kblfh095r9khmtudq4d56mrfm326lno1d9@4ax.com>,
John Ings <nodamned@spam.org> wrote:

> On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 17:26:32 GMT, Tony Muller
> <tonymullerREMOVE@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>
> If the fuel pump is not whirring and you have a meter, check for 12
> volts back at the fuel pump. That needs two people usually, since the
> voltage will only be there for a second or two while the ignition
> switch is turned. There are usually a pair of disconnects near it just
> ahead of the left rear wheel-- one for it's power, and one for the
> gound. Those can get corroded. Could even be a loose fuse. Do you know
> how to twist the tang on a fuse a bit so it makes better contact? A
> bad ground on the fuel pump is also a possibility. Such ground
> connections are often a rediculously long way from the pump itself.
>

Thanks! I finally had the car towed back 'home'. It died a mile or two
from home, and I've been traveling back & forth trying to fix the darned
thing. Of course, each trip I was missing a tool, guage, or SOMEthing.
Now that it's here, where I have an "assistant", I can do some more
thorough checking.

Does anyone know if a relay can test OK out of the car, and NOT work IN
the car? And is the following test conclusive? Heres what I did -

12V to #4, Ground to #8 - got continuity between 5 & 7
12V to #5, Ground to #2 - got continuity between 1 & 3
12V to #3, Ground to #8 - got continuity between 5 & 7

Thanks for all the help & keep any suggestions coming! Once this is
done, I'll be sure to post a final re-cap and solution.

Tony

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