Before replacing parts.... make sure that your idle speed isn't set too
high, and that you have plenty of coolant in the cooling system, there
should be a bleeder somewhere. If both of those are fine, then like the
other poster said, I would start with the fast idle valve.... though I'm
kinda cheap when it comes to that and I ignore what the service manual says
about not adjusting the valve and I try that first.

Also, the price from the dealer on the fast idle valve is only about $70....
and it's about $50 bucks at the online places.

"Eric Drew Hollins" <gte275e@mail.gatech.edu> wrote in message
news:20040708063143.012705a1@corranhorn.jastermere el.org...
> Well, did that the last time that I had this problem about 9 months ago.
Pretty much traced every vacuum line and the problem was still happening.
Cleaned out the ICV and FIV and the problem went away. I am to the point of
replacing them now.
>
> On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 05:51:53 GMT
> Randolph <trash@junkmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > Eric Drew Hollins wrote:
> > >
> > > My idle is messed up and it is doing the bouncing idle thing. By
this, I mean when it is idling, it will idle at 1000RPM then jump up to
1500RPM, down to 1000RPM's, up to 1500RPMs, etc. It is very, very annoying.
> > >
> > > Well, I got the parts that I need off of eBay. Well, I have the idle
control valve and the fast idle valve. If I am somewhat mechanically
inclined, could I replace these parts by myself? I know new parts will be
about $200 each and I don't want to pay a mechanic on top of that if I get
the parts for $50 off eBay and I can replace them myself.
> >
> > They are easy to replace, but you should use new O-rings and / or
> > gaskets. Do the fast idle valve first. The idle air control valve is
> > almost certainly not the problem. Vacuum leaks are a common cause of the
> > oscillating idle speed. See if you find cracked vacuum hoses and
> > connections etc.
>
>
>
>
> **** Eric Drew Hollins ****
> **** W:http://erichollins.net ****
> **** C:512.517.ERIC(3742) ****
>
>