yes you are supposed to "burp" the coolant. on the couple hondas i've worked
on theirs a bleeder screw near the throttle body. crack it open and then
fill till it starts squirting out.

also the squeal is probably from the other belts that loosen when new. their
is a "new" tension and a "used" tension when installing the accessorie
belts.

even if ur timing belt was too tight/ too loose i'm sure as heck it would be
spinning the water pump.

no idea on the car shutting off. any engine codes?

good luck,

jay

"ajpdla" <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote in message
news:vo778u3fqt82d4@corp.supernews.com...
> I just recently flushed my cooling system in conjunction with other work
> being performed on my 1995 Honda Passport. After flushing the system, I
> added a Radiator Anti-Rust bottle to my system. It's white in color. The
> coolant is green in color.
>
> Originally, and before I added the Anti-Rust, the car would overheat after
> about 2 minutes of running. This ended up being a mis-installation of the
> thermostat and, therefore, the system was re-drained, the thermostat
> installed correctly, and now the overheating problem has disappeared.
>
> However, it seems that the coolant in the system isn't flowing through the
> radiator.
>
> Question: When the car is running and the radiator cap is removed,
> shouldn't the coolant in the radiator be flowing THROUGH the radiator
rather
> than remaining still?
>
> The color of the fluid in the radiator is still a milky white. There was
> enough fluid in the rest of the cooling system to offset the white color
of
> the Anti-Rust and all fluid should be green, or at least a very light
green.
> The fluid is white.
>
> It would seem that the fluid beyond the radiator is not moving through the
> system. Yet the car is not overheating.
>
> Does this cooling system have an air pocket in it which is preventing flow
> along the system lines? If so, how does one remove the air or, in other
> words, "burp" the system on this vehicle?
>
> Forgive me being long-winded, but my wife just brought up another idea:
>
> Also re-did the timing belt during the work process. It now turns out my
> idea of re-using the hydraulic tensioner for the timing belt was a bad
idea.
> When I first start up my car in the mornings or at various parts of the
day
> where the car has been sitting, there is a very nasty squealing sound
which
> is heard until the car idles up. I believe this to be the timing belt
being
> either too tight or too loose because of the faulty tensioner unit (a new
> one is on order).
>
> At some times in the mornings, the squealing is so bad that the car shuts
> itself off. I would tend to think the car is shutting off because the
> tensioner is causing the belt to be too tight. Any thoughts?
>
> On the other hand, is the tensioner too loose and, therefore, the water
pump
> isn't functioning properly because of this? Yet, the car is not
> overheating. Or is it overheating, just not at the point where a
> temperature sensor picks up this fact?
>
> Final question, it seems at some point during my work the idler pulley was
> discovered to be pretty loose. I do not remember loosening it. My
mechanic
> friend re-tightened the bolt to it. Did THIS get tightended too tightly
and
> is this causing the car to squeal and shut off (I doubt this)? What is
the
> correct torque for the idler pulley on this vehicle?
>
> After reaching a good idle, the car runs great. Been driving it for about
> 250 miles post work being done. The squeal's got to go, though. It's
pretty
> annoying.
>
> Thanks for any advice/input.
>
> AJPDLA
>
>