Got replacement bolts at dealership ($$) but, on the other hand, one of the
bolts was rounded and neither I nor the LAP couldn't get it out for ANYTHING
.... and the dealer got it out and didn't charge me anything.... that was
nice of them.
Rotor is finally turned and ready to put back on..... course, it is raining
rather heavily outside..... Guess I drive the Beetle again tomorrow in the
rain.
--
KWW
'63 Beetle (Jenny the IOC)
'64 Beetle (TBD the Blue Wave)
"CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
news:iIqdnSSn_-exQqXdRVn-hg@comcast.com...
> I would imagine they would be easy to get at the dealership. Take them in
> and see if they match up. You could also try a hardware store but you
might
> not get the bolts the correct of amount of hardness. A fastener company
> will also have those bolts but I would try the dealer first. The service
> manual should state the size of the bolt in the exploded view drawing.
>
> CaptainKrunch
>
>
> "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> news:T62_b.367046$I06.3828491@attbi_s01...
> > Ya know, that is a darn good idea! I have antiseize that I use on the
> > sparkplug threads... this would be a good application for it. I WAS
going
> > to reuse the staked nut... I guess if it isn't too dear it would be good
> to
> > buy. I had just figured that, since I would only be torquing it to
specs
> > (245 Nm) it wouldn't be stopping at the same place it had been staked
last
> > time. It could be slightly damaged by the shock of the air wrench,
> > though.... I am not in a rush since I drive my Beetle to/from work so I
> > might as well check.
> >
> > I feel like using vice grips to take off those torx bolts just so I
don't
> > have to buy the wrenches.... if only I were sure I could get non torx
> > bolts...
> >
> > --
> > KWW
> > '63 Beetle (Jenny the IOC)
> > '64 Beetle (TBD the Blue Wave)
> > "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> > news:4LSdneYPWvp0pqXdRVn-gw@comcast.com...
> > > Well I would go to the Honda place and get the correct replacement
bolts
> > and
> > > probably a new drive axle nut. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use
> > anti-seize
> > > compound on that nut and the other related components for future
> removal.
> > I
> > > found the hub of my pancake rotor was rusted in pretty good. I put
> > > antiseize on it and the next time I took it off it was fine to remove.
> > >
> > > CaptainKrunch
> > >
> > >
> > > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > > news:SmWZb.96634$jk2.454776@attbi_s53...
> > > > Thanks... tried the penetrating oil route... finally had to put the
> > brakes
> > > > back together and drive to a garage... they worked at it with a
> > penumatic
> > > > wrench and finally they came lose. Retightened them so I could
drive
> > back
> > > > home. Interestingly, the car ends up having "torx" bolts on the
back
> of
> > > the
> > > > assembly, how that I've separated it from the drive axles. (not the
> > > regular
> > > > 10, 11, or 12mm bolts like the manual shows... so off to buy yet
> another
> > > > tool so I can get the rotors off.
> > > > KWW
> > > > "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:Gridnbtf48cqDardRVn-ug@comcast.com...
> > > > > I would spray penetrating oil on it and let it set a few minutes,
> and
> > > then
> > > > > attempt the socket, ratchet, cheater bar method. I would imagine
it
> > > > should
> > > > > come off after that. It is unusual to have them that tight but
> > > obviously
> > > > > not impossible. Maybe let it set longer than that. Are you sure
> that
> > > > these
> > > > > rotors are not "machine on the car" rotors as opposed to taking
them
> > off
> > > > and
> > > > > machining them on the machine?
> > > > >
> > > > > I am not familiar with the setup of the 93 models, just the 96 and
> > later
> > > > > (which is the same as the 94 and up I believe) and the later
models
> > are
> > > > done
> > > > > on the car. It is actually cheaper to purchase new rotors for
about
> > $25
> > > > > than pay to have them turned.
> > > > >
> > > > > CaptainKrunch
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:V7MZb.361113$I06.3785820@attbi_s01...
> > > > > > Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have
> > pneumatic
> > > > > tools?
> > > > > > Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on.
> > Using
> > > a
> > > > > > cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing
and
> it
> > > > STILL
> > > > > > wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the
> passenger
> > > side
> > > > > > front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get
> an
> > > new
> > > > > > rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the
> > rotor
> > > > > last
> > > > > > time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front
> brake
> > > > > done...
> > > > > > $#%*&!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it
together,
> > and
> > > > > drive
> > > > > > over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can
come
> > > home
> > > > > and
> > > > > > do it right..
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd
> year
> > > of
> > > > > > college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall.
Negative
> > > cash
> > > > > > flow...
> > > > > >
> > > > > > TIA!
> > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > > KWW
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>