I would imagine they would be easy to get at the dealership. Take them in
and see if they match up. You could also try a hardware store but you might
not get the bolts the correct of amount of hardness. A fastener company
will also have those bolts but I would try the dealer first. The service
manual should state the size of the bolt in the exploded view drawing.

CaptainKrunch


"KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
news:T62_b.367046$I06.3828491@attbi_s01...
> Ya know, that is a darn good idea! I have antiseize that I use on the
> sparkplug threads... this would be a good application for it. I WAS going
> to reuse the staked nut... I guess if it isn't too dear it would be good
to
> buy. I had just figured that, since I would only be torquing it to specs
> (245 Nm) it wouldn't be stopping at the same place it had been staked last
> time. It could be slightly damaged by the shock of the air wrench,
> though.... I am not in a rush since I drive my Beetle to/from work so I
> might as well check.
>
> I feel like using vice grips to take off those torx bolts just so I don't
> have to buy the wrenches.... if only I were sure I could get non torx
> bolts...
>
> --
> KWW
> '63 Beetle (Jenny the IOC)
> '64 Beetle (TBD the Blue Wave)
> "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> news:4LSdneYPWvp0pqXdRVn-gw@comcast.com...
> > Well I would go to the Honda place and get the correct replacement bolts
> and
> > probably a new drive axle nut. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use
> anti-seize
> > compound on that nut and the other related components for future
removal.
> I
> > found the hub of my pancake rotor was rusted in pretty good. I put
> > antiseize on it and the next time I took it off it was fine to remove.
> >
> > CaptainKrunch
> >
> >
> > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > news:SmWZb.96634$jk2.454776@attbi_s53...
> > > Thanks... tried the penetrating oil route... finally had to put the
> brakes
> > > back together and drive to a garage... they worked at it with a
> penumatic
> > > wrench and finally they came lose. Retightened them so I could drive
> back
> > > home. Interestingly, the car ends up having "torx" bolts on the back
of
> > the
> > > assembly, how that I've separated it from the drive axles. (not the
> > regular
> > > 10, 11, or 12mm bolts like the manual shows... so off to buy yet
another
> > > tool so I can get the rotors off.
> > > KWW
> > > "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> > > news:Gridnbtf48cqDardRVn-ug@comcast.com...
> > > > I would spray penetrating oil on it and let it set a few minutes,
and
> > then
> > > > attempt the socket, ratchet, cheater bar method. I would imagine it
> > > should
> > > > come off after that. It is unusual to have them that tight but
> > obviously
> > > > not impossible. Maybe let it set longer than that. Are you sure
that
> > > these
> > > > rotors are not "machine on the car" rotors as opposed to taking them
> off
> > > and
> > > > machining them on the machine?
> > > >
> > > > I am not familiar with the setup of the 93 models, just the 96 and
> later
> > > > (which is the same as the 94 and up I believe) and the later models
> are
> > > done
> > > > on the car. It is actually cheaper to purchase new rotors for about
> $25
> > > > than pay to have them turned.
> > > >
> > > > CaptainKrunch
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:V7MZb.361113$I06.3785820@attbi_s01...
> > > > > Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have
> pneumatic
> > > > tools?
> > > > > Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on.
> Using
> > a
> > > > > cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing and
it
> > > STILL
> > > > > wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the
passenger
> > side
> > > > > front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get
an
> > new
> > > > > rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the
> rotor
> > > > last
> > > > > time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front
brake
> > > > done...
> > > > > $#%*&!
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it together,
> and
> > > > drive
> > > > > over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can come
> > home
> > > > and
> > > > > do it right..
> > > > >
> > > > > Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd
year
> > of
> > > > > college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall. Negative
> > cash
> > > > > flow...
> > > > >
> > > > > TIA!
> > > > > Regards,
> > > > > KWW
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>