Ya know, that is a darn good idea! I have antiseize that I use on the
sparkplug threads... this would be a good application for it. I WAS going
to reuse the staked nut... I guess if it isn't too dear it would be good to
buy. I had just figured that, since I would only be torquing it to specs
(245 Nm) it wouldn't be stopping at the same place it had been staked last
time. It could be slightly damaged by the shock of the air wrench,
though.... I am not in a rush since I drive my Beetle to/from work so I
might as well check.

I feel like using vice grips to take off those torx bolts just so I don't
have to buy the wrenches.... if only I were sure I could get non torx
bolts...

--
KWW
'63 Beetle (Jenny the IOC)
'64 Beetle (TBD the Blue Wave)
"CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
news:4LSdneYPWvp0pqXdRVn-gw@comcast.com...
> Well I would go to the Honda place and get the correct replacement bolts
and
> probably a new drive axle nut. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use
anti-seize
> compound on that nut and the other related components for future removal.
I
> found the hub of my pancake rotor was rusted in pretty good. I put
> antiseize on it and the next time I took it off it was fine to remove.
>
> CaptainKrunch
>
>
> "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> news:SmWZb.96634$jk2.454776@attbi_s53...
> > Thanks... tried the penetrating oil route... finally had to put the
brakes
> > back together and drive to a garage... they worked at it with a
penumatic
> > wrench and finally they came lose. Retightened them so I could drive
back
> > home. Interestingly, the car ends up having "torx" bolts on the back of
> the
> > assembly, how that I've separated it from the drive axles. (not the
> regular
> > 10, 11, or 12mm bolts like the manual shows... so off to buy yet another
> > tool so I can get the rotors off.
> > KWW
> > "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> > news:Gridnbtf48cqDardRVn-ug@comcast.com...
> > > I would spray penetrating oil on it and let it set a few minutes, and
> then
> > > attempt the socket, ratchet, cheater bar method. I would imagine it
> > should
> > > come off after that. It is unusual to have them that tight but
> obviously
> > > not impossible. Maybe let it set longer than that. Are you sure that
> > these
> > > rotors are not "machine on the car" rotors as opposed to taking them
off
> > and
> > > machining them on the machine?
> > >
> > > I am not familiar with the setup of the 93 models, just the 96 and
later
> > > (which is the same as the 94 and up I believe) and the later models
are
> > done
> > > on the car. It is actually cheaper to purchase new rotors for about
$25
> > > than pay to have them turned.
> > >
> > > CaptainKrunch
> > >
> > >
> > > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > > news:V7MZb.361113$I06.3785820@attbi_s01...
> > > > Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have
pneumatic
> > > tools?
> > > > Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on.
Using
> a
> > > > cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing and it
> > STILL
> > > > wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the passenger
> side
> > > > front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get an
> new
> > > > rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the
rotor
> > > last
> > > > time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front brake
> > > done...
> > > > $#%*&!
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it together,
and
> > > drive
> > > > over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can come
> home
> > > and
> > > > do it right..
> > > >
> > > > Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd year
> of
> > > > college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall. Negative
> cash
> > > > flow...
> > > >
> > > > TIA!
> > > > Regards,
> > > > KWW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>