Well I would go to the Honda place and get the correct replacement bolts and
probably a new drive axle nut. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use anti-seize
compound on that nut and the other related components for future removal. I
found the hub of my pancake rotor was rusted in pretty good. I put
antiseize on it and the next time I took it off it was fine to remove.

CaptainKrunch


"KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
news:SmWZb.96634$jk2.454776@attbi_s53...
> Thanks... tried the penetrating oil route... finally had to put the brakes
> back together and drive to a garage... they worked at it with a penumatic
> wrench and finally they came lose. Retightened them so I could drive back
> home. Interestingly, the car ends up having "torx" bolts on the back of
the
> assembly, how that I've separated it from the drive axles. (not the
regular
> 10, 11, or 12mm bolts like the manual shows... so off to buy yet another
> tool so I can get the rotors off.
> KWW
> "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> news:Gridnbtf48cqDardRVn-ug@comcast.com...
> > I would spray penetrating oil on it and let it set a few minutes, and
then
> > attempt the socket, ratchet, cheater bar method. I would imagine it
> should
> > come off after that. It is unusual to have them that tight but
obviously
> > not impossible. Maybe let it set longer than that. Are you sure that
> these
> > rotors are not "machine on the car" rotors as opposed to taking them off
> and
> > machining them on the machine?
> >
> > I am not familiar with the setup of the 93 models, just the 96 and later
> > (which is the same as the 94 and up I believe) and the later models are
> done
> > on the car. It is actually cheaper to purchase new rotors for about $25
> > than pay to have them turned.
> >
> > CaptainKrunch
> >
> >
> > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > news:V7MZb.361113$I06.3785820@attbi_s01...
> > > Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have pneumatic
> > tools?
> > > Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on. Using
a
> > > cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing and it
> STILL
> > > wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the passenger
side
> > > front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get an
new
> > > rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the rotor
> > last
> > > time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front brake
> > done...
> > > $#%*&!
> > >
> > > Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it together, and
> > drive
> > > over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can come
home
> > and
> > > do it right..
> > >
> > > Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd year
of
> > > college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall. Negative
cash
> > > flow...
> > >
> > > TIA!
> > > Regards,
> > > KWW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>