I would spray penetrating oil on it and let it set a few minutes, and then
attempt the socket, ratchet, cheater bar method. I would imagine it should
come off after that. It is unusual to have them that tight but obviously
not impossible. Maybe let it set longer than that. Are you sure that these
rotors are not "machine on the car" rotors as opposed to taking them off and
machining them on the machine?

I am not familiar with the setup of the 93 models, just the 96 and later
(which is the same as the 94 and up I believe) and the later models are done
on the car. It is actually cheaper to purchase new rotors for about $25
than pay to have them turned.

CaptainKrunch


"KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
news:V7MZb.361113$I06.3785820@attbi_s01...
> Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have pneumatic
tools?
> Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on. Using a
> cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing and it STILL
> wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the passenger side
> front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get an new
> rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the rotor
last
> time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front brake
done...
> $#%*&!
>
> Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it together, and
drive
> over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can come home
and
> do it right..
>
> Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd year of
> college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall. Negative cash
> flow...
>
> TIA!
> Regards,
> KWW
>
>