Yep, your right, the motor was the problem. I now have heat again, just in time
for another northern winter!

Thanks for your help.

Rich


bruce.ross@shaw.ca wrote:

>As I recall, the ground is below the right side of the dash...it comes
>off where the blower assembly connectors are and is grounded to a
>metal piece of the frame. Removing the glove compartment makes it
>easier to access. Check the 2 wire connector with a continuity
>tester. With the key turned off (or ideally with battery
>disconnected) touch one lead to a metal part of the frame and the
>other to one of the contacts in the 2 wire connector. You should have
>good continuity (no resistance between one of the connectors and the
>frame)...if not you have a bad ground.
>
>But...I still suspect the motor. Although the knobs are prone to
>stripping the switches weren't prone to failure and even if they did
>fail you should be able to jiggle the switch to make it work at one of
>the speeds. attached is another post I found which is similar to my
>experience:
>
>From: Big Bad Bob (rpardee@cport.com)
>Subject: Re: 90' Accord A/C fan shuts off and on
>
>View this article only
>Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.honda
>Date: 1999/08/28
>
>My blower motor did this about a yar ago. It was acompanied by very
>little output. When I set the switch to high, it didn't blow as
>strongly as it used to. And then one day, right SMACK in the the
>middle of summer by the way, it quite all together. It turned out
>that it was the blower motor itself that had gone out. The brushes had
>worn down and started to tear into that copper thing that the brushes
>rub against (can't rmember what it's called). I had to replace the
>motor (obviously). It wasn't as expensive as I had expected.
>But that motor was a B**CH to get in and out! You can check to see if
>this is the problem by removing the blower motor cover plate. Its on
>the very botttom of the motor and is attached by two screws. If this
>isn't the problem, I would suggest cleaning the contacts in the switch
>(not an easy task either, but FAR easier than removing/installing the
>blower motor!).
>
>Best of luck!
>
>
>
>On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 00:44:23 GMT, dyerr@sympatico.ca (Richard) wrote:
>
>>You're right about the relay, it checks out fine. Next I will check for power
>>at the connector to the blower...If power is present there, the problem should
>>be with the blower or bad ground (?) I assume the resistor pack is off the
hook
>>because all the fan speeds don't work (if high still worked then suspect the
>>resistor pack...correct?). Would you happen to know where the ground
connection
>>is? The Haynes manual schematic shows a Junction Conn B (Ground) and Ground M
>>(below right side of dash). A DIY friend of mine says that he would suspect
>>the switch because of "all the arcing" that goes on...this doesn't sound right
>>to me. Anyway, I'll be waiting till tomorrow to continue...had a wee bit of a
>>snowstorm today and its a little chilly outside!
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>
>>bruce.ross@shaw.ca wrote:
>>
>>>I did the same thing (removed and successfully operated with direct
>>>connection) and then reinstalled the blower assembly only to find it
>>>stopped working again....nothing worse than trying to diagnose
>>>intermittent problems. My blower motor went at 265k so if you're at
>>>281k on the original blower motor my guess is that it's running on
>>>borrowed time. When I took apart my blower motor there was
>>>considerable debris inside it that I'm sure contributed to it's
>>>demise. Debris is sucked into the motor through a rubber vent tube.
>>>
>>>Because of the way they have the motor taped up; it is difficult to
>>>take apart and reassemble again so if you take it apart you're almost
>>>committed to buying a new one. Note I was advised you can't purchase
>>>replacement brushes.
>>>
>>>I doubt whether the problem is the switch or relay. The only other
>>>thing I would suggest is to check the ground wire...a bad ground can
>>>cause the same problems.
>>>
>>> On Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:26:28 GMT, dyerr@sympatico.ca (Richard) wrote:
>>>
>>>>ok I removed the blower assembly (with some difficulty) but when I connect
the
>>>>blower directly to 12v (the car battery) it spins like a banshee! Should I
>>>>bother checking the brushes/armature or assume all is fine and move on to
>>>>checking the fan switch and or relay....any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>>bruce.ross@shaw.ca wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Almost certainly your heater fan motor is gone. On my '90 Accord the
>>>>>fan was working intermittently...if I banged on the dashboard on
>>>>>passenger side it would start up. When I removed the motor and looked
>>>>>inside the brushes were completly gone and the armature was damaged.
>>>>>I replaced with a replacement motor from NAPA (approx $100). Note
>>>>>that you have to remove the entire blower assembly to replace the
>>>>>motor...if you have air conditioning it is a very tight fit to remove
>>>>>and replace the blower...requires pulling back carpet on passenger
>>>>>side and disconnecting some sockets on the ECU to move it out of the
>>>>>way.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>On Sun, 02 Nov 2003 03:55:02 GMT, dyerr@sympatico.ca (Richard) wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>First I would like to say that I love the 90-93 model; up until very
>>recently,
>>>>>>my next car was definitely going to be a 93 Accord. But...I'm finding
them
>>>>hard
>>>>>>to come (in northern Ontario that is). The other discouraging thing is
the
>>>>rust
>>>>>>problem...I think the engine will go forever but the body won't!. But
>>>>recently
>>>>>>I've been experiencing a number of problems peripheral to the drivetrain,
>>>>>>namely,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 1. the two rear brakelights, and center high brakelight don't work. The
>>>>dealer
>>>>>>fix for this only lasted about 2 months. It seems to me it was a
grounding
>>>>>>problem..I wish I had gotten them to show me how they fixed it. I think
>>this
>>>>>>problem relates to poor rubber seals on the trunk lid which allowed a lot
of
>>>>>>moisture to collect on the underside of the trunk lid...noticed this for
>>quite
>>>>>>some time but never did anything about it. Another Accord owner told me
>>there
>>>>>>is a relay within the brake light housing/lens unit which could be the
>>>>culprit.
>>>>>>Is this possible?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>2. Heater fan doesn't work on any speed setting. Initially, the problem
was
>>>>>>intermittent, but now it has quit for good. Before I tear the dash apart
to
>>>>>>test the fan switch, I'm wondering if there is a most likely culprit
>>>>here...for
>>>>>>instance the blower motor itself?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>3. Power steering leak..checked it out...looks like the line from the
>>pump..a
>>>>>>$330 part from the dealer <ouch>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>With winter approaching my main concern is the heater fan. If anybody has
>>>>some
>>>>>>advice it would be greatly appreciated! I'm hoping to make it to
300K...am
>>at
>>>>>>281K now (on original clutch, third timing belt and burns no oil, well
>>>>virtually
>>>>>>no oil!)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>TIA
>>>>>>Rich
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>