As I recall, the ground is below the right side of the dash...it comes
off where the blower assembly connectors are and is grounded to a
metal piece of the frame. Removing the glove compartment makes it
easier to access. Check the 2 wire connector with a continuity
tester. With the key turned off (or ideally with battery
disconnected) touch one lead to a metal part of the frame and the
other to one of the contacts in the 2 wire connector. You should have
good continuity (no resistance between one of the connectors and the
frame)...if not you have a bad ground.

But...I still suspect the motor. Although the knobs are prone to
stripping the switches weren't prone to failure and even if they did
fail you should be able to jiggle the switch to make it work at one of
the speeds. attached is another post I found which is similar to my
experience:

From: Big Bad Bob (rpardee@cport.com)
Subject: Re: 90' Accord A/C fan shuts off and on

View this article only
Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.honda
Date: 1999/08/28

My blower motor did this about a yar ago. It was acompanied by very
little output. When I set the switch to high, it didn't blow as
strongly as it used to. And then one day, right SMACK in the the
middle of summer by the way, it quite all together. It turned out
that it was the blower motor itself that had gone out. The brushes had
worn down and started to tear into that copper thing that the brushes
rub against (can't rmember what it's called). I had to replace the
motor (obviously). It wasn't as expensive as I had expected.
But that motor was a B**CH to get in and out! You can check to see if
this is the problem by removing the blower motor cover plate. Its on
the very botttom of the motor and is attached by two screws. If this
isn't the problem, I would suggest cleaning the contacts in the switch
(not an easy task either, but FAR easier than removing/installing the
blower motor!).

Best of luck!



On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 00:44:23 GMT, dyerr@sympatico.ca (Richard) wrote:

>You're right about the relay, it checks out fine. Next I will check for power
>at the connector to the blower...If power is present there, the problem should
>be with the blower or bad ground (?) I assume the resistor pack is off the hook
>because all the fan speeds don't work (if high still worked then suspect the
>resistor pack...correct?). Would you happen to know where the ground connection
>is? The Haynes manual schematic shows a Junction Conn B (Ground) and Ground M
>(below right side of dash). A DIY friend of mine says that he would suspect
>the switch because of "all the arcing" that goes on...this doesn't sound right
>to me. Anyway, I'll be waiting till tomorrow to continue...had a wee bit of a
>snowstorm today and its a little chilly outside!
>
>Thanks
>
>
>bruce.ross@shaw.ca wrote:
>
>>I did the same thing (removed and successfully operated with direct
>>connection) and then reinstalled the blower assembly only to find it
>>stopped working again....nothing worse than trying to diagnose
>>intermittent problems. My blower motor went at 265k so if you're at
>>281k on the original blower motor my guess is that it's running on
>>borrowed time. When I took apart my blower motor there was
>>considerable debris inside it that I'm sure contributed to it's
>>demise. Debris is sucked into the motor through a rubber vent tube.
>>
>>Because of the way they have the motor taped up; it is difficult to
>>take apart and reassemble again so if you take it apart you're almost
>>committed to buying a new one. Note I was advised you can't purchase
>>replacement brushes.
>>
>>I doubt whether the problem is the switch or relay. The only other
>>thing I would suggest is to check the ground wire...a bad ground can
>>cause the same problems.
>>
>> On Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:26:28 GMT, dyerr@sympatico.ca (Richard) wrote:
>>
>>>ok I removed the blower assembly (with some difficulty) but when I connect the
>>>blower directly to 12v (the car battery) it spins like a banshee! Should I
>>>bother checking the brushes/armature or assume all is fine and move on to
>>>checking the fan switch and or relay....any thoughts?
>>>
>>>bruce.ross@shaw.ca wrote:
>>>
>>>>Almost certainly your heater fan motor is gone. On my '90 Accord the
>>>>fan was working intermittently...if I banged on the dashboard on
>>>>passenger side it would start up. When I removed the motor and looked
>>>>inside the brushes were completly gone and the armature was damaged.
>>>>I replaced with a replacement motor from NAPA (approx $100). Note
>>>>that you have to remove the entire blower assembly to replace the
>>>>motor...if you have air conditioning it is a very tight fit to remove
>>>>and replace the blower...requires pulling back carpet on passenger
>>>>side and disconnecting some sockets on the ECU to move it out of the
>>>>way.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>On Sun, 02 Nov 2003 03:55:02 GMT, dyerr@sympatico.ca (Richard) wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>First I would like to say that I love the 90-93 model; up until very
>recently,
>>>>>my next car was definitely going to be a 93 Accord. But...I'm finding them
>>>hard
>>>>>to come (in northern Ontario that is). The other discouraging thing is the
>>>rust
>>>>>problem...I think the engine will go forever but the body won't!. But
>>>recently
>>>>>I've been experiencing a number of problems peripheral to the drivetrain,
>>>>>namely,
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. the two rear brakelights, and center high brakelight don't work. The
>>>dealer
>>>>>fix for this only lasted about 2 months. It seems to me it was a grounding
>>>>>problem..I wish I had gotten them to show me how they fixed it. I think
>this
>>>>>problem relates to poor rubber seals on the trunk lid which allowed a lot of
>>>>>moisture to collect on the underside of the trunk lid...noticed this for
>quite
>>>>>some time but never did anything about it. Another Accord owner told me
>there
>>>>>is a relay within the brake light housing/lens unit which could be the
>>>culprit.
>>>>>Is this possible?
>>>>>
>>>>>2. Heater fan doesn't work on any speed setting. Initially, the problem was
>>>>>intermittent, but now it has quit for good. Before I tear the dash apart to
>>>>>test the fan switch, I'm wondering if there is a most likely culprit
>>>here...for
>>>>>instance the blower motor itself?
>>>>>
>>>>>3. Power steering leak..checked it out...looks like the line from the
>pump..a
>>>>>$330 part from the dealer <ouch>
>>>>>
>>>>>With winter approaching my main concern is the heater fan. If anybody has
>>>some
>>>>>advice it would be greatly appreciated! I'm hoping to make it to 300K...am
>at
>>>>>281K now (on original clutch, third timing belt and burns no oil, well
>>>virtually
>>>>>no oil!)
>>>>>
>>>>>TIA
>>>>>Rich
>>>>>
>>>>
>>