3 strikes and you're out. You messed up 3 out of 3 jobs. Take it to a
mechanic. I may end up costing you dearly.

Try draining the coolant and flushing the sytem with water alone and then
putting in new coolant.

"ajpdla" <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote in message
news:vo778u3fqt82d4@corp.supernews.com...
> I just recently flushed my cooling system in conjunction with other work
> being performed on my 1995 Honda Passport. After flushing the system, I
> added a Radiator Anti-Rust bottle to my system. It's white in color. The
> coolant is green in color.
>
> Originally, and before I added the Anti-Rust, the car would overheat after
> about 2 minutes of running. This ended up being a mis-installation of the
> thermostat and, therefore, the system was re-drained, the thermostat
> installed correctly, and now the overheating problem has disappeared.
>
> However, it seems that the coolant in the system isn't flowing through the
> radiator.
>
> Question: When the car is running and the radiator cap is removed,
> shouldn't the coolant in the radiator be flowing THROUGH the radiator
rather
> than remaining still?
>
> The color of the fluid in the radiator is still a milky white. There was
> enough fluid in the rest of the cooling system to offset the white color
of
> the Anti-Rust and all fluid should be green, or at least a very light
green.
> The fluid is white.
>
> It would seem that the fluid beyond the radiator is not moving through the
> system. Yet the car is not overheating.
>
> Does this cooling system have an air pocket in it which is preventing flow
> along the system lines? If so, how does one remove the air or, in other
> words, "burp" the system on this vehicle?
>
> Forgive me being long-winded, but my wife just brought up another idea:
>
> Also re-did the timing belt during the work process. It now turns out my
> idea of re-using the hydraulic tensioner for the timing belt was a bad
idea.
> When I first start up my car in the mornings or at various parts of the
day
> where the car has been sitting, there is a very nasty squealing sound
which
> is heard until the car idles up. I believe this to be the timing belt
being
> either too tight or too loose because of the faulty tensioner unit (a new
> one is on order).
>
> At some times in the mornings, the squealing is so bad that the car shuts
> itself off. I would tend to think the car is shutting off because the
> tensioner is causing the belt to be too tight. Any thoughts?
>
> On the other hand, is the tensioner too loose and, therefore, the water
pump
> isn't functioning properly because of this? Yet, the car is not
> overheating. Or is it overheating, just not at the point where a
> temperature sensor picks up this fact?
>
> Final question, it seems at some point during my work the idler pulley was
> discovered to be pretty loose. I do not remember loosening it. My
mechanic
> friend re-tightened the bolt to it. Did THIS get tightended too tightly
and
> is this causing the car to squeal and shut off (I doubt this)? What is
the
> correct torque for the idler pulley on this vehicle?
>
> After reaching a good idle, the car runs great. Been driving it for about
> 250 miles post work being done. The squeal's got to go, though. It's
pretty
> annoying.
>
> Thanks for any advice/input.
>
> AJPDLA
>
>