Re: Help me figure out this problem - no start '90 accord LX.
The question should be why isn`t my alternator charging. It sounds
like you're loosing power to your ignition or fuel system. According
to your complaints you loss battery power coming to a stop suggests an
electrical problem. Here`s what I see.
I have seen one Honda with acid dripping down into the wire harness`s
sleeve corroding the main wire that connects to the alternator and
other systems. But does not effect the starter and won`t start. The
battery will not charge and the corrosion is visibly undetectable. The
dash lights are slightly dimmed.
If it were your case, I would jump 12V battery to ignition switch 12V
main (white) in left foot fuse box using a thick cable to bring back
that current.
Koji
> You've mentioned not getting air? Usually when the catalytic is jammed, the
> car looses power and come to a complete stop and no start. There will be
> little or no air intake flows or muffler exhausts.
>
> Fuel is best check by smelling the plugs, it tells you richness, fouling,
> flooding, etc. If all fuel injectors aren't working, a check engine light is
> designed to light up in most cases.
>
> The 90 Accord produces a large arc when using a (normal electrical) ground
> wire placed near the coil's secondary (the coil's output) or other areas but
> will produce a small arc when using the plugs as a test jig. A good igniter
> also plays a part in producing a large arc. Here's why.
>
> Step 1. A simple coil test should consists of supplying the coil's ( + ) and
> (-) for 14ms a watch the arc.
> Step 2. Now compare this arc to the one produced from the stock igniter, I
> mean by cranking the motor. The igniter produced arc should be at least four
> times larger, and larger as the gap to ground increases. If step 1 produces
> a very, very weak arc and step 2 produces a weak arc, then the coil is in
> question.
>
> I've had many Hondas that will start with 2-3 teeth off the T-belt.
> Koji
>
>
> >I checked the sparks three ways. I have a spark tester which plugs inline
> >between the plug and wire. I also took out the plug and watched it arc
> >when cranked (wire connected). I also watched it arc from dist to wire.
> >The spark didn't seem all that powerful, but that's all relative. A weak
> >spark should still cause combustion.
> >
> >I tested the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. When ignition was turned on
> >with banjo bolt unbolted, gas shot up out of the bolt as expected.
> >
> >I'm at a loss on what's going on since I'm getting spark and fuel. I
> haven't
> >checked if I'm getting air (not sure what the best way to do that is).
> With
> >all three present (air, spark, and fuel), I should be getting combustion.
> >perhaps my timing is off because I have a supra that won't start if the
> timing
> >is way out of range.
> >Gary
> >
> >gRmEcMgOrVeEw@mindspring.com (Gordon McGrew) wrote in message
> news:<q0t3ov086g4jf2tprrk6ofss7fp27u6olf@4ax.com>. ..
> >> On Mon, 06 Oct 2003 22:36:03 GMT, "Caliban"
> >> <caliban03nospam@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> >How many miles on the car?
> >> >
> >> >I haven't heard of the main fuel relay failing twice. (Though I guess
> with
> >> >enough years and miles, it will.) I think there was a defect in the
> original
> >> >one in this year's Hondas. Subsequent relays don't have this defect.
> >> >
> >> >Check and consider replacing: spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap
> and
> >> >rotor. This is around $100 in parts and very little labor.
> >> >
> >> >Have you ever replaced the distributor coil on this car? If not,
> consider
> >> >doing so. It may not be the problem but your car is probably due for a
> new
> >> >one, so it's probably worthwhile. Max. of about $100 in parts and
> another
> >> >$100 in labor.
> >> >
> >> >Same for the ignitor (a.k.a. ignition module). Also max. of about $100
> in
> >> >parts and another $100 in labor.
> >> >
> >> >How old's the battery (years and miles)? I ask because it may be
> >> >complicating the above problems.
> >>
> >> Gary said he was getting spark which would seem to rule out these
> >> ignition parts and he said it cranks well so the battery must be OK.
> >>
> >> Hey Gary, how did you check the spark? Was it strong or merely
> >> present?
> >>
> >> I would be tempted to put another fuel pump relay in as a test.
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