On May 14, 10:57 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> Charles wrote:
> > Charles wrote:
> >> Solenoids need a surge of current when first turned on to pull it in and
> >> then considerably less to remain activated.
>
> > I should also mention that if you have the solenoid connectors apart, measure
> > the resistance of the solenoids to ground. They're usually less than a few
> > dozen ohms. If they show several hundred ohms, they're bad. That increased
> > resistance causes them to heat up more quickly. A hot solenoid core saturates
> > magnetically and won't release leading to the flaring.
>
> alternatively, solenoids that run hot cook their flyback diodes and in
> turn fry the ecu. after a while anyway.

I took it to my mechanic and he took it for a test drive, opened hood
and inspected something while somebody started the engine (put it in
drive and also at reverse). After that, he said "if you wanna believe
me, your transmission and everything is fine". He also asked me not to
pay too much attention while driving.

May be he is right, may be he is wrong. I came back home. That's the
end for now.

I found a forum post at http://www.fordforums.com/showthread.php?t=112967.
This is exactly the same problem as I was/am facing:

=========starts====================
transmission flare when shifting

Have a 96, 4.0 ohv, 114000 miles on it. Transmission flares when
shifting from 2nd to 3rd under light load. This does not happen all
the
time, but enough to have me worried. Seems to happen only when trans
is
at operating temp, never when cold. Have read up on this problem, some
say a bad gasket on the valve body or loose valve body bolts will
cause
this. I have a B&M Shift-Plus electronic shift kit that is supposed to
tighten up the shift. Would it help to install it? I don't hot rod,
just
want max life out of the truck.
Thanks,
Jack
==========ends===================