On Mon, 29 May 2006 08:45:36 -0700, "Michael Pardee"
<michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote:

><glworley@gmail.com> wrote in message
>news:1148679127.306255.295200@i40g2000cwc.googleg roups.com...
>>I have a '93 Accord 10th Anniversary Ed. Automatic. I've owned the car
>> for about 6 months and I have a couple of different problems that I
>> hope someone can help with.
>>
>> 1) The engine has a rough idle when warm (500-750 rpms). When I shift
>> out of gear and into Neutral or Park it smooths out quite a bit, but
>> not completely. It also goes away when driving or pressing the
>> accelerator.
>>
>If you are saying the car shakes but the tach indicator is steady (that's
>what it sounds like is happening) the problem is most likely associated with
>the rear engine mount.

I agree with Mr Pardee's diagnosis. I had to have the rear and one
other motor mount on my 93 Accord replaced a couple of years ago
because of the exact same symptoms.
>>
>> 2) When I am cruising at a steady speed (say between 60-70 mph) on
>> level highway, I've noticed that the rpms will jump up about 500 rpms
>> for no reason. It feels like a minor gear shift, but with the level
>> terrain and the constant speed it shouldn't be shifting. It does this
>> "shift" continuoisly back and forth.
>> Side note: I'm getting about 23-25 mpg city/hwy combined. To me that
>> sounds low.
>>
>>
>The shift anomaly is beyond my experience, but the fuel economy problem may
>well be a bad O2 sensor. The age of the car makes it likely, and although
>there is still a controversy here about whether an O2 sensor can be bad
>enough to drag down fuel economy without setting the "check engine" light, I
>think it happens.

My guess is that the torque converter lockout clutch is not operating
properly. This would also affect fuel economy. Again, my 93 Accord has
the same or a similar problem. The dealer recommended I take it to a
specialty transmission shop. The dealer also indicated that if I did
not have it fixed, the car would probably suffer no harm and would
likely go a long way before an unrelated problem occurred and I could
then get both fixed.
>
>> 3) I've recently noticed the smell of burning oil when the car is
>> parked, but no signs of an oil leak. I had the valve cover and spark
>> plug gaskets replaced a few months ago, but this has only started with
>> in the past few weeks. Occasionally, there is a puff of white/blue
>> smoke that comes from the exhaust on start up.
>>
>The smell of burning oil makes me think the oil is dripping down the back of
>the engine and landing on the exhaust pipe. Besides the valve cover gasket,
>it could be from the oil filter - which is located right above the exhaust
>pipe. That would worry me, because the filter won't leak unless something
>unusual is wrong - a punctured filter, damaged gasket, or (scariest of all)
>the filter isn't quite tight. If you recently had an oil change (like just
>before the smell started) I recommend checking that out very soon. I once
>had a filter vibrate loose and it was no fun.

This is good advice. I had several small oil leaks that happened about
the same time and they were all fairly inexpensive to fix. If I
recall, two that could be causing this symptom in addition to the
filter and valve cover were the distributor shaft seal and the main
bearing seal. However, I was also getting oil drops on the ground. My
memory is that a new valve cover gasket, main bearing seal, and
distributor shaft all cost less than about $1000 to fix.

Hope this helps

Don't be a drive by poster. Let the group know how it all works out.