"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:f5CdnUwMWeNfboLZnZ2dnUVZ_vydnZ2d@sedona.net.. .

> Ah, I love those cop-outs in the manuals. The funny thing is that there is
> often some troubleshooting you can do yourself.
>
> I'd definitely check out the low pressure cutout switch. Usually you will
> get a long period of excessive compressor cycling before it refuses to
> work at all, but a large leak or a long time without using the A/C can
> skip you past that. Anyway, pull the connector off the switch (with the
> engine off) and measure the switch. It should have continuity.
> Alternatively, you can put a jumper in the connector to see if the
> compressor pulls in (engine and A/C on), but don't do that for more than a
> moment to avoid damage to the compressor... or replace the compressor
> connection with your test light.

I found and jumped the low pressure switch and it seemed to work. I did the
134 conversion myself with new o-rings, oil, and the refrigerant. Cooled to
48 degrees. It could probably take another small can, but it's working. At
least for now. Leaks may show in a day or so...


> I am ambivalent about R-134a conversions. R-12 is outrageously expensive
> these days, but converted systems just don't work as well as unconverted
> systems of either type.
>
> Either way, if the pressure switch is what is holding the compressor off
> you will need to go to a pro - either to get the R-12 charge (you can't
> buy the stuff) or for a proper conversion. If it's not the problem, come
> on back and we can go deeper.
>
> Mike


Thanks for the help.

John