"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:I6qdnZxrFfgublrfRVn-qw@speakeasy.net...
> you can drive for a little while with a dead boot, [that axle's now dead
> anyway], but priority one is check the joints, then get it aligned.
> honda's don't go out of alignment unless hit in some way, so make sure
> there's no bent or damaged parts when you're inspecting everything.
>
It's also worth mentioning the CV joint is not involved in the alignment,
since the inner CV joint is made to adjust to whatever length the steering
demands. The axle does not have to be replaced before the suspension is
fixed and the alignment done, but it is probably simpler/cheaper to do both
together. Expect about $100 US for the (rebuilt) replacement part, more for
a new one if you take it to a dealer. I always do the rebuilt. I also do
both sides when one needs it on the theory and experience that the other
won't last much longer, but you are probably looking at your bank account
with some dismay already.

And just to drive the point home: as you say, there is something
specifically wrong that is causing the alignment to be off - simply
realigning as it is means trouble down the road.

If this is a DIY project, you can even do a DIY toe adjustment after you fix
whatever's broke. Place a strip of tape (like masking tape or duct tape)
across each front tire and drive down a straight road a mile or so. Compare
the wear from the inner to the outer edges, and adjust the tie rods to bring
the fronts in (shorten the tie rods) if the inner edges are wearing more
than the outer edges - and vice-versa. It's no substitute for a real
alignment, but it'll get you close enough to let your tires survive.

Mike