In article <Xns9CB0C235F7A98tegger@208.90.168.18>,
Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote:

> Face <face@yahoo.com> wrote in
> news:face-B6A749.17555426102009@newsfarm.iad.highwinds-media.com:
>
> > In article <Xns9CAFE3AC9711Ctegger@208.90.168.18>,
> > Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote:
> >
>
> >>
> >> The danger here is the short in the sender unit may have caused
> >> damage to the gauge, so if the temperature gauge still acts oddly,
> >> you may have to get another one. You can find a cheap replacement at
> >> a wrecking yard.
> >
> > The dealer didn't have one in stock so they had to order one. They
> > said it would be a day or two. I left the unit unplugged. Hopefully
> > the gauge is still ok. I don't really want to have to pull the
> > instrument cluster. If it is I'll start calling junk yards.
>
>
>
> You're probably OK. It's probably more likely the sender has just lost some
> of its resistance rather than actually shorted. The loss of resistance can
> be detected with a multimeter (S/B 142 ohms at cold, approx 35 at full op-
> temp).
>
> Some clarification: the "sender" unit isn't really a "sender", but a
> variable grounder. Current goes through the gauge and then to ground
> through the sender. The sender has variable resistance that decreases with
> increased coolant temperature. Decreased resistance means more current
> flowing to ground and a higher gauge needle reading.

Thanks for the clarification. I checked the resistance and it reads as
0 so I'm guessing that means it's dead. Went to pick up the part and it
was the wrong one. They ordered the sensor that goes in the thermostat
housing so I'll have to wait a couple more days.