On Oct 17, 4:24*pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
> Zephyr <davedejo...@hotmail.com> wrote innews:bcc1ef88-6c2e-457e-9fdf-dcc6758851f0@a21g2000yqc.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>
> > hmm, *I'm rethinking it again, after re reading your bit about rust
> > under the shims.. *I know I had to pry off the the old pads with a
> > screwdriver and they popped out of place pretty smartly after getting
> > a bigger screwdriver... *I gave lip service to cleaning under the
> > shims with a screwdriver, and was able to place the new pads in by
> > hand, but, it wasn't loose.
> > I live in SE Michigan, on a dirt road where they put calcium chloride
> > down in the summers... can't think of many *worse places for steel
> > brake parts to live...
>
> "Lip service" doesn't help much. You have to clean ALL the rust off. Those
> pads must be LOOSE.
>
> Both pins, plus both pads, on each side, MUST be /perfectly free/ to move
> in their positions. ANY stickiness will create uneven pad wear.
>
> It's possible the hydraulic piston is sticking, but that would cause uneven
> wear on that side (on BOTH pads) versus the pads on the other side. It's
> even possible you have a combination of problems.
>
> To easily check for a sticky piston, you can do one of three things:
>
> 1) Get an infrared thermometer for between $30 and $80. The sticky side
> will be much hotter than the non-sticky side.
> <http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/infrared-thermometer.jpg>
>
> 2) After a drive, feel the wheel nuts with a fingertip. The sticky side
> will be much hotter than the non-sticky side.
>
> 3) Elevate the end of the car with the suspected sticky piston. Remove both
> road wheels, remove the calipers from the mount brackets and hang them
> properly. Push the pistons back in all the way. Now step on the brake pedal
> all the way to the floor about eight times. Is one piston ejected LESS than
> the other? Then that piston is sticky.
>
> Make sure there is sufficient fluid in the master cylinder that it doesn't
> run dry when you do #3. And do not perform #3 if the brake fluid has not
> been changed in five years or more.
>
> By the way, I've been experiemnting with high-build zinc primer as the
> anti-corrosion medium in place of grease between the slide shims and the
> mount bracket. It's worked well, and I've been meaning to update the site
> to show that.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

K, so I got a night to look at the wheel in question
its the rear left.. rear right is in perfect fine shape... The
inside pad on the rear left is down to the squeely (whatever you call
it "wear indicator" ) the outside pad is at least twice as thick as
the inside, though probably only half the thickness of the outside
pad on the rear right ( and yes, they were replaced at the same
time... )
The upper of the two pins was a little sticky, I could spin it free
by hand, but compared to the lower pin it was a bit tight... I sanded
it down and put some syl-glyde in there, and it seems good...
Now the fun...
I had a beast of a time turning in the caliper piston, that is at
first, the first 4 or 5 quarter rotations were very difficult..
( one hand holding the caliper, the other with a flat file laying in
the groove of the X pattern on the piston head, pulling to the point
of my file flexing) After a few rotations, though it was much easier
to turn, though no where easy enough to spin with a large
screwdriver. Once I finally got the piston in far enough I notice
that the piston boot was dislodged though... not sure If I just did
it now, or if it had been that way. but, I have part of the rubber
boot coming free, so. I think I'm going to order a new
caliper..

hopefully short term I can get the boot back in a decent place so that
I can still drive till the new caliper gets here.

So the question is this, I only need to get the one side right, I
couldn't think of a reason to get the other side as well as it seems
to be in good shape, but, Just though I would post to get all of your
opinions.

thanks again to all

Dave