Tegger wrote:
> "T.H" <tinfolihat@nospamplease.com> wrote in
> news:VcmdnYY-jv27rinXnZ2dnUVZ_uednZ2d@insightbb.com:
>
>> I found this page:
>>
>> http://www.team-integra.net/sections...owArticle.asp?
>> ArticleID=301
>>
>> These instructions appear doable. I do change my own oil and own
>> torque wrench and metric sockets. The dealer did suggest a manual
>> transmission fluid change.
>
>
>
> Always a good idea.
>
>
>> As the value of the car, tax-wise, continues to diminish, I am a
>> little more willing to try things on my own to maintain the vehicle.
>> The main risk is to be sure to apply a [penetrating oil to assist in
>> loosening the bolts it seems.
>
>
>
> NO! No penetrating oil is needed!
>
> The bottom bolt has a 3/8" square hole in it. You need to use a pick to
> remove as much or the dirt from that hole as you can so the ratchet's
> 3/8" square drive will engage fully. If it slips and rounds off, you wil
> be AWFULLY sorry!
>
> The upper (fill) bolt is a regular 19mm socket.
>
> Tightening torque for the lower bolt is 29 ft/lbs. The upper bolt is 33
> ft/lbs.
>
>
>
>
>
>> Would my local Autozone/Pep Boys have
>> the required washers and/or what are the proper diameters?
>
>
> For the cheap price (about a buck apiece), get the proper washers from
> the dealer. The drain washer is the same as the oil pan bolt washer. The
> fill washer is a lot bigger and has its own part number. I just did mine
> and can't remember the part number, but the dealer will be very familiar
> with it.
>
>
>> Would these instructions apply to my 1994 GS-R 5 speed manual
>> transmission?
>
>
> Pretty much.
>
> Space is definitely short. Draining is easy. Filling is not. The fill
> method suggested is OK, but you need to make 100% certain of two things:
> 1) that NO dirt EVER drops into the funnel, and,
> 2) that the funnel is well ABOVE the fill hole. The higher the better.
>
> A third point is that the car should be prefectly LEVEL front-to-back
> and left-to-right. You can use a carpenter's level to ensure this.
>
> You'll spill a bit as the oil drains out of the fill hole once the
> proper level has been reached, so have an oil-change pan under it.
>
> Also, if the fill hose isn't quite all the way into the fill hole, oil
> can dribble out early, leading you to erroneously think that you've
> filled the tranny properly.
>
>
>> I am a /little/ confused on the MTL. The above page suggests Mobil 1
>> is an acceptable substitute. Is this true? 5W30 OK? Located in
>> Louisville, KY and winters are not too cold. Maybe 0 degrees a few
>> days but normal cold in the teens.
>
>
>
> No no no no no to all of that.
>
> Viscosity and mineral/synthetic has nothing to do with it.
>
> Honda DID used to recommend ordinary 10W-30 motor oil, but motor oil has
> changed dramatically since then. The advent of OBD-II around 1995
> resulted in a severe reduction in various traditional motor oil
> anti-wear additives. The reductions were done in order to allow
> catalytic converters to meet new government longevity regulations. The
> reductions also, unfortunately, meant that ordinary motor oil no longer
> possessed the proper qualities for manual transmission usage. That's why
> Honda developed their own MTF. MTF contains exactly what Honda wants to
> see (better than even the older motor oil, actually).
>
> Honda knows the chemical composition of the metals and plastics used in
> their bearings, synchros and gears. Honda MTF has very specific
> additives particularly meant for Honda's own quirky designs. Genuine
> Honda MTF is the ONLY proper stuff to use in Honda manual transmissions.
>
>
For the leveling effort, what reference point on the vehicle is already
mostly flat/level for that frame of reference?