There are three fuses related to the stereo:

#47 (7.5 amps) in the under hood fuse box. This one is shared with the
clock, ECU etc. and is for the wire that is always hot (at the stereo,
white with blue stripe).

#30 (7.5 amps) in the under-dash fuse box. This is for dash lighting
etc. and is for the wire that is hot whenever the parking lights or head
lights are on (at the stereo, red with black stripe). If it is blown,
the stereo won't dim its display (or whatever it is supposed to do when
you turn on your lights) but should otherwise work.

#28 (10 amps) in the under-dash fuse box. This is for the wire that is
hot only when the ignition is on ( at the stereo, yellow with red
stripe).

It seems there is a problem with the voltage to the WHT/BLU wire. As I
mentioned in my last post, I would not use this wire. Instead I would
pull a new wire from the under-dash fuse box, options connector #1 (+B).
I'll e-mail you a drawing of where to find this in the fuse box. You can
use a regular 1/4" quick connect to plug into the options connector
(like http://tinyurl.com/2zpux, you can get them at any hardware store
or auto parts store) Remember to put a 10 amp fuse in this wire, close
to the fuse box.


MnM wrote:
>
> Randolph, thanks for your help. I'm replacing factory installed radio
> with MP3 head unit. I've Honda Civic '96. I checked the ACC fuse, it
> was blown up. After I replaced it, the new audio system works only
> when I connect its memory and power cables to main ignition cable. But
> now problem is, it loses memory and all settings when I turn off the
> car. When I connect the memory cable to 'actual' memory cable, it
> doesn't work. I did checked backup and radio clock fuses, they look
> fine (I even replaced them with other fuses). Any idea what can go
> wrong with memory wire comming from battery? Is there any otehr fuse I
> need to check? Any other alternates?
>
> Thanks
>
> Randolph <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message news:<40BC194F.B4C07E29@junkmail.com>...
> > Was the old stereo you pulled out the original factory one, or was it
> > another after-market unit?
> >
> > As late as '95 the always-on +12V for the stereo came from a 7.5A fuse
> > in the under-hood fuse box, same fuse as the ECU backup memory fuse. On
> > the factory stereo, this wire is only used to keep the memory and clock
> > alive when the ignition is off, it was never intended to actually power
> > the stereo. The problem is that most after-market stereos draw all their
> > operating current from the always-on wire and use the ignition switch
> > wire only as an indication that the ignition is turned on. If they kept
> > the same setup for '96 (new generation), I'd check in the under-hood
> > fuse box for a fuse marked "Backup", chances are it is blown (even with
> > this ECU backup fuse blown, the engine will run just fine).
> >
> > If your '96 has the same always-on wiring as the '95 you should pull a
> > new wire from the under-dash fuse box to supply current to the stereo.
> > On the '95 fuse box there were 5 options connectors in a row above the
> > fuses, the leftmost one is always on and can be used for a stereo
> > system. Your '96 may or may not be similar.
> >
> > MnM wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm replacing the existing audio system with a new one. I didn't do
> > > the correct wiring first time, and after installation, new audio
> > > system is not working. I plugged in older one back, but its not
> > > working either. I checked the lighter fuse and lighter itself, they
> > > are working fine.
> > >
> > > Any suggestions?