On Apr 20, 9:12*am, "NancyR" <nan...@nospam.net> wrote:
> The main fuse was blown, I'm sure, as the copper wire between
> the two pieces was burned out. *There was no power at all - no
> lights, no horn, nothing.

Again, if I remember the car, there would be no lights (no power at
all) but the horn and hazards lights would still work. That is if it
was a main fuse.

Fuse is there so that no copper wire is burned out. If horn and
hazard lights work (and no power elsewhere), then that might be a main
fuse failure. If not even horn and hazard lights, then something else
was wrong.

Posted are things requiring teenager (14 year old) abilities. That
means it is even simpler for laymen or retired people. Nothing posted
requires a professional. And if living in a rural area, owning and
knowing how to use a multimeter (cited by honda.lion) is important.
If you cannot use a meter, then never even go near a cell phone,
coffee maker, or Ipod. Meters are sold only where the most complex
equipment is sold (yes, facetious) such as K-mart, Lowes, and Wal-Mart
(for less than $18). A simplistic tool for being in rural
environments and remaining independent.

Main fuses do not blow arbitrarily. Power necessary to blow a main
fuse is also sufficient to create a car fire or even cause a battery
to explode. Find what blew that fuse - because the actual
intermittent problem is that serious. Just replacing the fuse without
locating the short would be irresponsible. If the main fuse blew and
not smaller fuses, then a likely suspect is loose metal inside the
engine compartment fuse box. But again, it does not matter if the car
can be driven. If the reason for a blown main fuse is not found, then
car is not driveable and could (a remote possibility) even catch fire.