On Apr 19, 9:13 am, "NancyR" <nan...@nospam.net> wrote:
> Two different people checked the battery and said it was fine. One put his
> battery in my car & the result was the same - nothing, no click.

First, don't let anyone do that kind of major surgery again.
Everything you and he needed to know comes from using the meter - as
honda.lion properly described. Replacing the battery was the last
thing anyone should have done.

Second, this is simplest electrical stuff. Meter measures battery
directly on both terminals. It should read 12 VDC. Watch it
yourself. Then leaving one probe on that battery, use the other
probe to follow that wire to its last connection. If voltage
disappears along the way, then what is wrong is clearly obvious. Even
a teenager can do this.

Repeat same with the other probe following that other wire. Anyone
who could not do this is the last person you want swapping batteries.
And had he done this, then he would have never swapped batteries.

Third, chances are honda.lion is correct about the main fuse. But
main fuses do not blow by themselves. That mechanic should have been
looking for the failure that the fuse was protecting from.

Fourth, - and this is critically important to get the problem solved
the first time. When you first got into the car -- before even trying
to start it. Was there ever any lights or noise? IOW the fuse blew
at a particular point. What was the exact point of blowing?

Based upon what he checked, well, was it really the main fuse blown?
If so, then (if I remember this car), hazard lights and horn would
still work (with main fuse blown). Or was it just some other fuse
that was erroneously described as the main fuse?

Finally, after the fuse is replaced, a mechanic must use that meter
to also confirm other problems do not exist; that even the charging
system is outputting proper voltages. Again, he must not just replace
the fuse. He must also find the failure. None of that involves
cleaning cables. It involves measuring for and locating something so
massive as to blow a fuse that large.

See where the second biggest cables go? To blow that main fuse
involves something large enough to blow a 100 amp fuse and not blow
smaller fuses. That implies a short inside a fuse box in the rear of
the engine compartment right side. Same box that holds the main
fuse. Is something loose and moving inside that box? Only that would
explain a blown main fuse.

The point: information provided because too many people with
insufficient knowledge have been 'helping' and because it sounds like
(remotely possible) your help might be into enriching themselves.
Provided was enough information so that you might see through a poorly
informed mechanic before paying through the nose.

If he does not have a meter (as described by honda.lion), then he
has no business working on your car.