Elle wrote:
> "martin lynch" <odiegoogle@yahoo.com> wrote
>> I have a 2001 Honda Civic and need to drain and fill my
>> radiator. I
>> have read some tutorials but have a few questions:
>
> Do you have an owner's manual? Follow its steps exactly and
> you will be fine. Post back if you want a site that has free
> online owner's manual.
>
>> 1) Some have advised draining the radiator, then filling
>> with
>> distilled water and running for a while, then draining the
>> water and
>> filling with coolant. However, if I put water in, won't
>> that get
>> circulated into the engine block? If so, when I refill the
>> radiator
>> with my pre-mixed 50/50 coolant (comes this way from
>> Honda), then my
>> coolant in the system will be super diluted as it mixes
>> with the water
>> I introduced into the engine block. Am I missing something
>> here?
>
> Like Jim said, you are correct. With a lot of study of the
> owner's manual coolant capacities commentary, one can figure
> out how to mix the anti-freeze to make up for the diluted
> water.
>
> On the other hand, it is not a big deal to skip your
> proposed flush, let a little old coolant stay in the engine
> block, and add new coolant.
>
> Coolant chemistry has come a long way. As long as you follow
> the maintenance schedule for changing coolant, all will be
> fine.
>
>> 2) If the car has a bleeder valve (not sure if it does,
>> I'll have to
>> check), how does it work?
>
> Your Civic does not have a bleeder valve. The procedure uses
> the simple "burp" approach to purge air from the cooling
> system via the top of the radiator (when filling) and via
> the top of the radiator and out the reserve tank during
> operations.
>
> Caveats:
> 1.
> Use Honda OEM coolant. Or you can try orange Havoline.
> Orange Havoline comes both pre-mixed and undiluted. A few of
> us here have been using the orange havoline for years and
> are quite happy with it.
>
> 2.
> Remember there is a difference between the radiator drain
> plug and the engine drain bolt. Both are going to come off
> to properly drain the system. Do get a new washer for the
> engine drain bolt. Buy non-hardening sealant (per the
> directions in the owner's manual). Permatex makes such a
> sealant and it specifically says it is good for the cooling
> system. You can get it at Autozone.

yes. make sure it's NOT the silicone sealant. most auto shops have
tons and tons of silicone sealants, and just one non-silicone. easy to
get confused.



>
> 3.
> One of the most important steps for ensuring a good purge of
> air is making sure the radiator fan comes on twice. This may
> take 40 minutes or more of the car idling, so have a
> magazine and chair.
>
>
>> 3) If I do the bleeding method where I open the cap and
>> run the
>> engine, do I simply observe the fluid in the radiator
>> while the engine
>> is heating up, and pour coolant in as the level drops,
>> WHILE THE
>> ENGINE IS RUNNING? At what point do I need to worry that
>> the coolant
>> will get so hot that steam blows my head off? Or does
>> this not happen
>> since I'm running the engine with the cap off, preventing
>> a pressure
>> buildup?
>
>
> Correct, no pressure buildup with the cap off. Steam from an
> open container is not going to exert any meaningful
> pressure. Perhaps you are thinking of how some foolish
> people take off the radiator cap /after/ the system is hot
> and pressurized. Then a mixture of hot coolant and steam
> will blow the cap off and create a dangerous momentary
> gusher as the person removes it.
>
>