Changing the EGR doesn't do any good if the ports to the valve are blocked.
You only did half the job.

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9B309ADB3A823jyanikkuanet@74.209.136.86...
> "Dean Carriveau" <d.carriveau@worldnet.att.net> wrote in
> news:ALNGk.63406$Mh5.39535@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have an '87 Accord DX with carb fuel. My problem is rough running
>> and lack of power after the engine warms and drops to normal idle RPM
>> (about 700 rpm). It has poor power getting under way or climbing
>> hills from this point. The problem appears to be intermittant as
>> well. When I remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve, the car runs
>> and idles normally. I replaced the EGR ($200!) and it didn't solve
>> the problem. My manual says that the EGR control valve A and B could
>> be causing the EGR valve to operate when it shouldn't. I have not
>> been able to find these and guess they are in the ECU on the firewall.
>> Is this correct? I took the lid off and looked inside the box and
>> it looked pretty scary. Has anyone had a similar problem and is
>> there a drawing (or picture) of the A and B EGR control valves
>> available? I'm planning to go to a wrecker this weekend to see if I
>> can find a used box. Could a bad oxygen sensor cause this problem?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>> Dean Carriveau
>>
>>
>>
>
> it's not the ECU.
> And if the O2S were bad,it would not run "normally" with the EGR hose
> disconnected.
> maybe you have a cracked hose or a plugged hose?
>
> Also pay attention to coolant levels in the radiator,not just looking at
> the reservoir tank.The coolant temp sensor has to be immersed for it to
> work right. there may be a air bleed port on your motor,that you open when
> the engine is fully warmed up and bleed out any air.
>
> Is there a diagram of the EGR system on the hood of your car?
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net