Re: Fuel pump goblins
jim L wrote:
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:SKidnSNLZsh3o33VnZ2dnUVZ_qLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> jim L wrote:
>>> This isn't actually a honda problem, but I hope someone here can give me
>>> some insight into what is happening & why.
>>>
>>> I have a 93 Nissan pickup w/ electric fuel pump in gas tank. When it
>>> works, it works fine.. until you shut engine off. It doesn't quit when
>>> engine is running - regardless of how long it runs - 1 mile or 50. but
>>> after turning engine off, fuel pump may or may not run. If it doesn't,
>>> it won't work again until it sits a day or so.
>>> Based on the schematic, I thought the problem was with the ECU to the
>>> fuel pump relay, so I pulled the relay & jumped the circuit. It seemed
>>> to work fine - started it several times over next couple of days - even
>>> let it run & get up to operating temp, shut off & restarted fine.
>>>
>>> Then drove it about 5 mi., and it wouldn't start afterward. Still
>>> wouldn't start 3 hrs later, but started & drove it home about 20 hrs
>>> later. Turned off & wouldn't start.
>>>
>>> I guess I need to replace fuel pump, but I'm baffled as to why pump works
>>> fine and continues to run as long as engine is running. It seems like a
>>> bad pump would quit on the road instead of only when engine is turned
>>> off.
>>>
>>>
>> honda have been plagued by the solder on their main relay cracking. and
>> the symptoms are exactly the same as you describe. [if nissan use mitsuba
>> relays,] go to tegger.com, check out the resolution, then see if it works
>> for you.
>
> Hi Jim - thanks for the reply
> I read Tegger's entry on the mitsuba relays and Michael's description of
> what happens with a Dry
> Solder socket. It's enlightning - but not encouragong - looks like i'll
> have to drop the tank and pull the fuel pump. My best gestimate is that the
> bad solder connection is somewhere whithin the fuel pump assembly. I have
> power to fuel pump with my jumped circuit - so main relay isn't the
> problem.
regardless, you need to methodical about this and eliminate known
failure points. start with the relay and then test the wiring - both
sides. you should be able to pull that without dropping the tank.
fyi, although you probably know this, it's ***EXTREMELY*** dangerous to
run fuel injection without main relay cutoff being active - what you
have with the jumped relay. crashed car, trapped inside, continuing to
pump gas onto a flaming engine... you'll take weeks to grow your hair back.
> I was hoping for an easier fix - but at least knowing how it
> could happen is positive.
>
> Jim
>
>
|