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Old 05 May 2008, 07:53 am
jim beam
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Rotor Work for 96' Accord

Armand wrote:
> In article <WOednaYjBc1yR4DVnZ2dnUVZ_gSdnZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
> spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
>> Armand wrote:
>>> Thanks Tegger. My service guy is usually straight up with me and I guess

> I
>>> have to expect expenditures like this for a 13 year old car.
>>>
>>>
>>> In article <Xns9A945A2E0DF08tegger@207.14.116.130>,

> tegger@tegger.c0m
>>> says...
>>>> Bluzeguitar@verizon.net (Armand) wrote in
>>>> news:Mt1Tj.288$JF1.245@trndny06:
>>>>
>>>>> I almost fell out of my chair when my dealer told me that new rotors
>>>>> and pads would cost $470 total. Is this about right? He said the
>>>>> "front end" has to be removed so it's mostly a labor issue. Thanks
>>>>> for any advice.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> That's correct. The steering knuckle has to be removed from the car and

> the
>>>> hub pressed off before the rotor can be removed.
>>>>
>>>> Honda changed the design for the '98 model year to make rotors easier

> to
>>>> remove. You still have the old, bad design.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Tegger
>>>>
>>>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>>>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

>>
>> but the real question is why you think you need the rotors replacing in
>> the first place. what are the symptoms you're experiencing?

>
>
> Heavy pulsing of the brake pedal and the rotors were already cut twice.
>


typically, this is solvable by cleaning the wheel interface, disk and
wheel, then smearing a little anti-seize. re-torquing the lug nuts is
critical too. needs to be in the correct sequence, with a torque
wrench, in a 2 or more step process. it's very common for shops to use
air tools when tightening and what you're experiencing is the result.

last thing - try the above and see if it works. if not, go ahead and
get the rotors replaced. in my experience, once a disk is cut, the
problem becomes much less soluble.

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