"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:J_Gdnarh0o3_yZTVnZ2dnUVZ_oKhnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> Tegger wrote:
> > "NetDoe" <netdoe01XSPAM@XSPAMbellsouth.net> wrote in news:TaaOj.55430
> > $Er2.26247@bignews6.bellsouth.net:
> >
> >> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
> >> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
> >> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
> >> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
> >> wallet?
> >>
> >
> >
> > You don't need a kit at all, provided you bench bleed first. Do not
install
> > the new MC "dry".
> >
> > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html
> >
> >
> >
>
> but if you install "wet", you can get fluid all over the place - your
> workbench, not just your car. installing dry, then bleeding at the line
> connections ensures that all bleeding is controlled, and minimizes air
> that has to be bled through the rest of the system, particularly
> relevant for abs.
>
> indeed, i've replaced cylinders like this and not had to do the rest of
> the system at all. not standard practice of course, but it is possible
> if the brake lines don't empty, and they won't if the caliper bleeds
> aren't opened. try it - you'll be pleasantly surprised.

You know, if you think about it, installing dry on the car and then bleeding
it with the "bench-bleeding" fittings and hoses that come with the new M/C
kit IS bench-bleeding it.

....so that's what I did, and worked like a champ. As Jim says, no mess.
I bought a self-bleeding kit but ended up NOT opening/using it since my
10-yr old and wife were glad to help.

Total cost:
- M/C = $40
- Dot 3 fluid (2x12oz) = 4
- Bleeder rubber hose = 1

So for <$50 and 4 hrs of getting the parts and actually doing the work,
I have a partly new brake system! It was my first time to do it.

...and my old back hurts!