Tegger wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:J_Gdnarh0o3_yZTVnZ2dnUVZ_oKhnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> "NetDoe" <netdoe01XSPAM@XSPAMbellsouth.net> wrote in news:TaaOj.55430
>>> $Er2.26247@bignews6.bellsouth.net:
>>>
>>>> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
>>>> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
>>>> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
>>>> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
>>>> wallet?
>>>>
>>>
>>> You don't need a kit at all, provided you bench bleed first. Do not
>>> install the new MC "dry".
>>>
>>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> but if you install "wet", you can get fluid all over the place - your
>> workbench, not just your car.
>
>
>
> Leaks are no problem.
>
> Stuff a couple of golf tees in the holes as you transport the new MC if you
> have nothing else to plug them with. Even if the holes are left wide open,
> drips are slow and very easily compensated for.
>
> And even if you should get some brake fluid on the paint, it's not like
> when they cut off the leg of that critter in the movie "Alien". Brake fluid
> takes at least several minutes to damage paint.
>
>

installing dry, then bleeding at the line connections is exactly the
same as bleeding on the bench as far as the fluid is concerned. only
it's much more controlled. and you don't lose [use] as much fluid
overall. and there's no worries about any leakage when you're installing.

i've done both, and frankly, bleeding on the bench is a complete waste
of time i'll never bother with ever again.