Ok, its fixed. It had two problems. The starter was indeed bad. I
changed it out with a new one and checked the old > dead. The second
problem was the after market alarm system. Somehow it got fried and was
interrupting the start circuit. I'm guessing that there was some sort of an
electrical surge in the system that caused both problems. All that
matters, it that its back on the road again.

Thanks to everyone for your ideas. They were each very much appreciated.

Jack


"w" <wp51dos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:756e60ac-a8e1-48bd-8ddf-458a29fc077e@d21g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 25, 8:53 pm, "Dave and Trudy" <dtdod...@acsalaska.net> wrote:
> "JACK" <tota...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
>
> news:13uj6foehhtkged@corp.supernews.com...>I thought it was the starter so
> I changed it out. Battery is full. When
> >the key is turned, The inside relay clicks, I've changed out the relay in
> >the engine compartment. I've checked the fuse in the fuse panel. It's
> >almost like the power is never getting all the way to the starter. All
> >other aspects look good from what I've checked.
>
> > Any ideas? Please help, really can't afford a shop, but need it quickly.
>
> How about a voltage drop test. Measure the voltage at the starter with the
> key in the run posn. You should read 12v or close thereunto. Have a helper
> crank the engine (or use a remote starter switch) and watch the voltage.
> Should drop significantly, say to 3-4v (if I remember correctly). If the
> voltage stays high, up around 8-9v or more, then you have some parasitic
> resistance in the circuit. As Tony posted, then check the cable
> connections
> at the battery, the connections at the other end, at the starter, that is,
> and lastly check the condition of the cables themselves. A badly corroded
> cable with only a few strands still conducting will cause slow cranking or
> no cranking at all....
>
> Dave D

new battery next