On Mar 25, 8:53*pm, "Dave and Trudy" <dtdod...@acsalaska.net> wrote:
> "JACK" <tota...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
>
> news:13uj6foehhtkged@corp.supernews.com...>I thought it was the starter soI changed it out. *Battery is full. * When
> >the key is turned, The inside relay clicks, I've changed out the relay in
> >the engine compartment. * I've checked the fuse in the fuse panel. * It's
> >almost like the power is never getting all the way to the starter. * All
> >other aspects look good from what I've checked.
>
> > Any ideas? * Please help, really can't afford a shop, but need it quickly.
>
> How about a voltage drop test. Measure the voltage at the starter with the
> key in the run posn. You should read 12v or close thereunto. Have a helper
> crank the engine (or use a remote starter switch) and watch the voltage.
> Should drop significantly, say to 3-4v (if I remember correctly). If the
> voltage stays high, up around 8-9v or more, then you have some parasitic
> resistance in the circuit. As Tony posted, then check the cable connections
> at the battery, the connections at the other end, at the starter, that is,
> and lastly check the condition of the cables themselves. A badly corroded
> cable with only a few strands still conducting will cause slow cranking or
> no cranking at all....
>
> Dave D

new battery next