Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
news:Xns9A666F3BB8AD0tegger@207.14.116.130:

> pupdef@gmail.com wrote in news:28927a79-dca8-46f2-b553-048f3af825f5@
> 59g2000hsb.googlegroups.com:
>
>> First, thanks to everyone who answered my post about my 2001 Honda
>> Civic with both headlights out.
>>
>> Further investigation reveals that the high-beams work, but not the
>> low-beams. I replaced one bulb to see what happens, and it's the same
>> thing - the low-beams don't work but the high-beams do. The fuses for
>> the headlights look good, but as someone suggested, they could be bad
>> anyway. I don't have a multimeter to test them. Should I just replace
>> the fuses and see what happens?
>>
>> Tegger - you mentioned a third, 100a fuse under the hood that protects
>> both sides of the headlight circuit. The biggest fuse that I can find
>> in the under-hood fuse box is an 80a fuse that protects the battery.
>> Is there one somewhere else?
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> Do you have any aftermarket add-ons, like stereo, alarm, remote start,
> foglights, etc.?
>
> If there are no intrusions into the electrical system, then your
> combination switch is going bad. That's the stalk on the steering column
> which controls the headlights.
>
> The combo switch provides a common ground for the two headlamp relays
> (the ground activates the relays), plus it provides a common ground path
> for the high/low beam switch.
>
> You need to buy a cheap multimeter (available at any auto parts place)
> and some test wire and start tracing the circuits and actually testing
> the fuses.
>
> Try temporarily swapping in a 15A fuse from some other circuit, just to
> be sure the fuses are OK.
>
> Two simple tests you can perform if the fuses are good:
> 1) Ground terminal 7 of the combo switch connector (blu/red wire). Do
> the low beams now come on? Then the on/off portion of the combo switch
> is bad.
> 2) Turn the headlight switch to low beams. Ground terminal 6 of the
> combo switch connector (red/wht wire). Do the low beams come on now? If
> so, then the high/low portion of the combo switch is bad.
>
> It seems for test #1 you can tap the blu/red wire from the back of the
> fuse block, so you don't have to mess with the steering column. But for
> test #2 it looks like you need to either pull the column covers or
> ground the red/white wire by backprobing it at the headlamp connector.
>
>

in the US,you can get a cheap DMM at Harbor Freight,usually under $5.
On sale,they sell for $3.

but test it first with a 1.5V alkaline cell;the 1st DMM I got from HF read
way high(>2.0V),had to exchange it for another that read OK.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net